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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 12:47 pm 
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Hi

I have an old F & E system that that I think Noah installed but cannot replace at the moment.

I stupidly made the mistake of touching it when it was working, yes I know "If it 'aint broke don't fix it". So now I have a very leaky valve from the lockshield and obviously cannot obtain a replacement museum piece!

So having read this post http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/installing-a-trv-into-old-radiator-t69020.html and lots of research around it seems the most sensible fix for me for now, is to move the TRV to the other side of the rad running pipework from the feed out of the floor under the rad and up the RHS. While adding a B&Q (cant find one elsewhere) Plumbsure 8mm Straight Rad Valve as a lockshield. I have sourced 8mm elbows and a 8mm to 15mm for the run under the rad.

While it may not look pretty as far as I can see it should work.

What I would like please is any advice or comments about this and any alternatives, apart from rip it all out and start again.

Thanks in advance

Dave

PS I meant to add a pic or two

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 7:08 pm 
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Nothing wrong with what you are suggesting, although 8. & 10mm valves are available over the counter at any plumbers merchant.

Personally, although I am familiar with twin pipe valves, I have never seen one like this.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 8:21 pm 
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Dave, if you want one for your collection . . . lol


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 9:05 pm 
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I've not seen a double entry valve like that either. Why not do the whole run in 8mm and tuck it up under the rad so it can't be seen?

Normally there will be a tube in the rad that goes from the valve towards the other end - be warned it's probably thick with sludge

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 9:45 pm 
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Since posting I have spoken to a mate who asked why I was planning to keep the TRV at the top? :dunno: :scratch:

And I have found that I can replace this TRV, which is 15mm, with an 8mm so now the plan is to do as you say and run in 8mm and tuck it up behind the rad.

I did see a video somewhere that suggested there was a tube inside the rad, but I don't think so in my case as the valve connectors are offset. (Please excuse the b*m fluff!)
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 5:14 pm 
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UPDATE

Done, working and no leaks! Quite chuffed for first time plumbing. (Thanks for the help :-) )

I decided to do solder joints and had a practice before the real thing. OK it cost more with a blow torch, solder flux and a heat blanket but I have them for the rest of the rads. I found some very useful videos on YouTube (Search Plumberparts)

I had forgotten to turn back on the header tank feed to the rads (after I had turned it off to help with the leak) so didn't drain the system fully but enough to do my rad. I was very surprised at the colour of the water left in the rad, it was black like ink. And of course I had to cope with it pouring out when I moved at after disconnection, luckily it was the bathroom. (I would recommend a waterproof sheet, lots of old towels and a big bucket.)

I used PTFE tape on easy access threads but LSX on the less easy access threads, which may be unnecessary or overkill but I wasn't about to risk leaks and having to go back over my work.

The TRV was really useful as it can be fitted either horizontally or vertically is bi-directional and easy to set/change in situ and had an 8mm and 10mm gland. https://www.screwfix.com/p/danfoss-ras-c-white-chrome-angled-trv-8-10mm-x-8-10mm/33140

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I just need to do some redecorating now . . . .


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 5:46 pm 
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Well done to you. glad it worked out. :salute:

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