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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 9:53 pm 
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I've got a 4'0" double fluorescent strip light in the kitchen - one of the tubes has just gone this evening, (it might be the starter, doesn't really matter), and it feels like being in a dungeon in there with only half the light .

I'm thinking of replacing both of the existing standard fluorescent tubes with LED tubes.

This seems to be simple enough with a pair of tubes like these below from eBay......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Tube-Ligh ... WzvhkCphAg

........or have I got that horribly wrong? :mrgreen: :scratch:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 10:20 pm 
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If the LED lights are on 8 hours per day they will save you (based on power at 12p/kWhr) 3p/day.

The LEDs cost around double the fluorescent tubes so will cost an extra (say) £9 to purchase.

That £9 will require the lights to be on for 300 days (at 8 hours per day) to recoup the savings.

If the seller is true to their description of 50,000 hours tube life and will commit to a 5.7 year warranty then you're 'quids' in :roll: but if they are anything to be expected you'll get 12 months..... and be looking for fluorescents to replace them with by then :lol:

Your choice.....

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 10:55 pm 
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I'm not bothered about the running cost, I just want good light (when I switch the light on - not ten minutes later) I've got some GLS led bulbs around the house and they're nice and bright right from the off (on?), I was thinking the tubes would be too.

(I've also just bought some standard tungsten filament 150w GLS rough service bulbs for the garagio - and F*** the EU).

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 11:10 pm 
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ayjay wrote:
I'm not bothered about the running cost, I just want good light (when I switch the light on - not ten minutes later) I've got some GLS led bulbs around the house and they're nice and bright right from the off (on?), I was thinking the tubes would be too.

(I've also just bought some standard tungsten filament 150w GLS rough service bulbs for the garagio - and F*** the EU).

1w for 10hrs a day average burn at 14p a kw unit equals 50p a year so 150w equals £75 a year the choice is yours :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 11:54 pm 
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New fitted fluorescent tubes (and starter) should start almost immediately but I reckon LED replacements will dim over time - the manufacturers specify 50,000 hours life but they don't tell you how badly they dim over that period..... and they do - and you'll eventually be wondering 'what's wrong with the light in here?'

I suspect, but can't confirm, that the more they're switched on/off the worse they'll get. Happened with CFLs (different technology and different reasons but ... meh..)

I'm still of the opinion that they're all 'too new' to make a proper assessment.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 11:59 pm 
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big-all wrote:
ayjay wrote:
I'm not bothered about the running cost, I just want good light (when I switch the light on - not ten minutes later) I've got some GLS led bulbs around the house and they're nice and bright right from the off (on?), I was thinking the tubes would be too.

(I've also just bought some standard tungsten filament 150w GLS rough service bulbs for the garagio - and F*** the EU).



1w for 10hrs a day average burn at 14p a kw unit equals 50p a year so 150w equals £75 a year the choice is yours :lol: :lol:


If I had a 150w bulb burning in the garage for 6 hours a day (it wouldn't actually be that long - more like two or three hours and not every day) that's a maximum of 12p X 365 = £43.80. Less than £50 is not worth worrying about, a newspaper one day a week costs me more than double that.

I also have a healthy surplus of incoming funds over and above all of my outgoings.

I'm really not bothered about the running cost of a light bulb - I just want to be able to see what I'm doing. :-)

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 12:05 am 
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kellys_eye wrote:
New fitted fluorescent tubes (and starter) should start almost immediately but I reckon LED replacements will dim over time - the manufacturers specify 50,000 hours life but they don't tell you how badly they dim over that period..... and they do - and you'll eventually be wondering 'what's wrong with the light in here?'

I suspect, but can't confirm, that the more they're switched on/off the worse they'll get. Happened with CFLs (different technology and different reasons but ... meh..)

I'm still of the opinion that they're all 'too new' to make a proper assessment.


I think the gls LED bulbs actually have limited number of actuations, which is likely to see them fail before the LEDs actually give up, (given how my wife has switchitoffregardless disease).

I don't know about the brightness factor, I'll keep an eye on it, and can always go back to fluorescents.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 12:18 am 
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as you know i am not being the thought police more the information agent :lol:
i design my information to be flexible and adaptable to any situation quite easily to adapt to your situation with only minor adaption to unit and time costs :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 8:51 am 
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I've yet to experience an LED lighting situation that has been an improvement over conventional lighting as far as light (spread, colour etc) quality is concerned. OK, I've swapped them out on a cost-to-run basis but NEVER because I thought they improved the illumination.

My workshop is a prime example. I started off using LEDs and CFLs but rapidly discovered the light spread was so inconsistent that I fitted fluorescent tubes pronto. I do, however, us a small LED spot light to inspect circuit boards up close. If I didn't, I'd be using a torch anyway.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 9:48 am 
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ayjay wrote:
........or have I got that horribly wrong? :mrgreen: :scratch:


I have fitted hundreds of them. I always rewire the inards to bypass the ballast. I have had a couple of failures but on the whole I am very impressed with them.



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 10:04 am 
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I was under the impression that you get a "fake starter" (just a dead short) that you change for the original starter? But then again I suppose it depends on who is supplying the "tube" as to what they do or do not include.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 11:27 am 
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OnlyMe wrote:
ayjay wrote:
........or have I got that horribly wrong? :mrgreen: :scratch:


I have fitted hundreds of them. I always rewire the inards to bypass the ballast. I have had a couple of failures but on the whole I am very impressed with them.


The blurb on the eBay link says
Quote:
Magnetic ballast compatible (fluorescent fittings fitted with a starter)
The simple plug-and-play feature of a ballast compatible LED tube makes them the best alternative to fluorescent tube lights.


I'm taking that to mean that there's no messing about to do, just swap the tubes.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 12:52 pm 
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ayjay wrote:
OnlyMe wrote:
ayjay wrote:
........or have I got that horribly wrong? :mrgreen: :scratch:


I have fitted hundreds of them. I always rewire the inards to bypass the ballast. I have had a couple of failures but on the whole I am very impressed with them.


The blurb on the eBay link says
Quote:
Magnetic ballast compatible (fluorescent fittings fitted with a starter)
The simple plug-and-play feature of a ballast compatible LED tube makes them the best alternative to fluorescent tube lights.


I'm taking that to mean that there's no messing about to do, just swap the tubes.


I am guessing your fitting has two magnetic ballasts. The replacement starter that comes with the LED tubes is either a fuse or a direct short circuit (same thing electrically) and things then are really as simple as swapping the tubes and the starters. However I still bypass the ballasts when installing LED tubes. Sometimes double fluorescent fitting do require the wiring to be altered. It's very easy to do.



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