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PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2017 10:03 pm 
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its not just overall loading its point loading and reducing the strength far greater than you can imagine by your comments :shock:
in the same way you you remove the leg from a chair its not still 75% stable
or one suspension point off a spiders web the reduced strength will be far greater than the small disturbance to the structure :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 10:26 am 
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Hello everyone,

The roofing manufacturer has replied. They have said the following:

"Cut single trusses ( 1-No. at each location ) – support back to single either side with new purlins & rafter level. No binders required at floor level.

Strengthen adjacent single trusses with a scab to joist (long side from internal bearing to wall)"


However, i do not fully understand what they mean by this? They seem to be suggesting that i need to double up the bottom (floor) chord? And i am not sure what they mean for the side chords?

[img]<a%20href="https://ibb.co/b3aV9Q"><img%20src="https://thumb.ibb.co/b3aV9Q/my_roof.jpg"%20alt="my%20roof"%20border="0"%20/></a>[/img]

Many Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 1:30 am 
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To the usual posters who have tried to help here, can you help resolve this?
I have read the post from start to end and would like to see a definitive end to this and an explanation of OP's text from the roofing manufacturer. (just to expand my own knowledge, and those that may read this)

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 9:42 am 
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If you look at a Truss sideways on, its a triangle, if you take wood ie strength away you have to replace it, so IMHO you have to make another triangle screwed either side of your new opening with vertical battens well, these on mine were about 30mm x 200mm set at ninety degrees to the top ie sloping part of the truss down to the bottom one ie ceiling. The bigger ie longer the triangle the better. Again Iam only repeating how mine was constructed. Nos


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