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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:48 am 
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Hello everybody,

I have just priced to render a semi detached house, front and back and the big side, now it's old roughcasting on there whic the customer is hacking off back to old brick work.

So i was thinking what would u put on the brickwork before scratching? it's old red bricks, not engirning bricks, they look really pourus, was going to make a sbr and cement slurry and brush it on. Or will pva be fine?

Also this is the frist proper render i have done on my own, bit nervous of doing the float coat, as i have to bye a new float, and don't want it going off on me or furring up.

What does it mean when it furrs up when floating?

Also iv'e always been taught to rule off the top coat like you would with float and set, makes it easier to float, do you guys rule off?

Any advice to make it easier? as i could be doing it on my own!!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 10:57 am 
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Spray the walls well with a hose pipe so the water runs down and wash off all the dust.
Scratch coat 4&1 with a waterproofer, scratch coat all wall and key your scratch well, fit and stick your beads / bell with your scratch,
it furr's when its to dry to float, you can recover this by flicking a little water on it with your wet brush but it will show up as white patches
when dry,
rule off both horizontal and vertical so you don't leave a ridge between breeds;
New plastic float, you would be better with an old worn in one with a smooth face, but, take your new float and rub the square corners
off from around the working face on a smooth paving slab or concrete, when you have a float that's well worn in keep it to one side
just for these jobs.
Don't do it on your own get a useful labourer.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:12 pm 
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izalarfin wrote:
Spray the walls well with a hose pipe so the water runs down and wash off all the dust.
Scratch coat 4&1 with a waterproofer, scratch coat all wall and key your scratch well, fit and stick your beads / bell with your scratch,
it furr's when its to dry to float, you can recover this by flicking a little water on it with your wet brush but it will show up as white patches
when dry,
rule off both horizontal and vertical so you don't leave a ridge between breeds;
New plastic float, you would be better with an old worn in one with a smooth face, but, take your new float and rub the square corners
off from around the working face on a smooth paving slab or concrete, when you have a float that's well worn in keep it to one side
just for these jobs.
Don't do it on your own get a useful labourer.


Is that the best way to stick the beads up mate, with the scratch coat mix. I know some people that use skimming, goes off quicker, and harder.

I don't need to pva or treat the bricks then?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:15 pm 
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Also whats the best way to get the mix really workable and fluffy. so it's nice lay on and to rule off and fill in.

I thought home sand was the best.

Just let it mix it's self iv'e been taught.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 2:01 pm 
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Never stick beads up / on, in old houses and most certainly never outside with skimming. :shock:
You don't want it fluffy you want it fatty, fluffy is over mixed, use a waterproofer / plastersizer in each mix.
No you don't need to treat the bricks just wet them down with water that is the best glue for unpainted bricks and blocks just make
them damp and settle the dust.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 8:14 am 
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izalarfin wrote:
Spray the walls well with a hose pipe so the water runs down and wash off all the dust.
Scratch coat 4&1 with a waterproofer, scratch coat all wall and key your scratch well, fit and stick your beads / bell with your scratch,
it furr's when its to dry to float, you can recover this by flicking a little water on it with your wet brush but it will show up as white patches
when dry,
rule off both horizontal and vertical so you don't leave a ridge between breeds;
New plastic float, you would be better with an old worn in one with a smooth face, but, take your new float and rub the square corners
off from around the working face on a smooth paving slab or concrete, when you have a float that's well worn in keep it to one side
just for these jobs.
Don't do it on your own get a useful labourer.

As the man says follow these instructions and you shouldn't have any problems.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 12:04 pm 
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Cheers guys for your help.

There is no way to stop it going off so quick then? i know the sun is a killer when we have done them before. How do you guys put the beads up? do you drill and screw them?

I always find it tricky floating or laying on around the bell cast beads above the windows.

Can't belive need to get a new float, use to have an awesome float an old spread gave me, what's the best ones to get, i thought woode ones where good.


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