Hi all

Kitchen and conservatory is being redone in limestone, so I am takign up the nasty b&q tiles!

in the conservatory the tiles pretty much came up in my hands! most of the grout was cracked and brittle. This floor is no older than say 5 years!!

underneath the tiles is chipboard with what I think has foam attached top it underneath.

Its pretty well stuck down, I cant pry it up. I only know it has foam as I used a circular saw to make a few cuts to see the cross section.

Is this usual flooring for conservatories BEFORE tiling or laying finished floorings??

I think this is the reason the tiles have cracked the grout/adhesive as when I jump up and down on these boards there is definately play/bounce?!?

should I rip this all up? or leave and overboard with my 10mm insulating boards (for my underfloor heating)

LASTLY.. the kitchen has the same tiles and I am removing these, but these are PROPERLY stuck down! (concrete or mortar base I think..) what is the best way to remove these... club hammer, sharp cold chusel and lots of patience!?


thanks all

Dave

Sounds like a floating floor, chipboard over polystyrene insulation. Quite common in conservatories. Take it all up back to the slab and start again.
Use an SDS drill with rotary stop to chisel up the tiles and adhesive in the kitchen.

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Hi Dave,
I agree with trashing the tiles and chipboard ( the chipboard will be trashed anyway from removing the tiles), but if you have Kingspan/Celotex down, just relay the chipboard on top and don't go to the expense of laying new insulation!

SSM

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Measure twice, cut once!

Job all done guys. Took it ALL up (and the kitchen/WC..) and replaced with Marmox on flex tile adhesive

UFH layed and levelled with latex...

Limestone down too.... here are a few pics for you. Now all grouted and sealed. Ready to use! (just need to wire up UFH thermostats)

looks nice did you test the UFH before laying the tiles?

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- Dave
http://www.pamperhouse.net
http://www.invertedcircle.co.uk

Hi Dave, yep I was VERY anal about that.

I took multimeter readings all the time.

Ohm resistance numbers are all within the manufacturers spec :)

so theoretically, all should be good. *touches wood*