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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 6:22 pm 
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Removed the glass of the borrowed lights just need to board and replaster.

Is it just as easy as studding the inside out at the correct depth then screwing a sheet of plasterboard either side, taping the joints and plastering? Image

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 6:31 pm 
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pretty much. obvs. it'll need a mist coat before repainting.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 8:29 pm 
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wine~o wrote:
pretty much. obvs. it'll need a mist coat before repainting.
Sure, will mist coat. Just kept reading more complicated versions online saying it will crack? Can't think why

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 8:47 pm 
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kevinsmbuk wrote:
Just kept reading more complicated versions online saying it will crack? Can't think why



Possibly they're talking about the top part of the borrowed light frame being flush with the finished plaster unless it's cut back to stud level.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:50 pm 
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ayjay wrote:
kevinsmbuk wrote:
Just kept reading more complicated versions online saying it will crack? Can't think why



Possibly they're talking about the top part of the borrowed light frame being flush with the finished plaster unless it's cut back to stud level.
You mean that the wooden frame will sit flush with the plasterboard and therefore be plastered over? Hmm.. Yeah I guess just taping and plastering over that is a no no?

If not the whats the best way of cutting it back?



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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:52 pm 
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Also can I just fill the void at the top with bonding and plaster over?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 10:44 pm 
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You need to cut the top portion of the door frame out. Then make a little timber frame around the opening you are left with and plasterboard.
If the the current door frame is 95mm wide or 120mm wide(these are standard sizes) then you want to use 70mm or 95mm wide framing if you plan to plasterboard tape and fill. If you are planning on scrimming and skimming with plaster then use cls timber which is approximately 5mm narrower which will allow for a skim coat on the plasterboarding.



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 11:15 am 
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steviejoiner74 wrote:
You need to cut the top portion of the door frame out. Then make a little timber frame around the opening you are left with and plasterboard.
If the the current door frame is 95mm wide or 120mm wide(these are standard sizes) then you want to use 70mm or 95mm wide framing if you plan to plasterboard tape and fill. If you are planning on scrimming and skimming with plaster then use cls timber which is approximately 5mm narrower which will allow for a skim coat on the plasterboarding.



Cheers Steve, couple of questions, I am a bit of a novice with wood. Would you build the frame then insert in the space or build inside the space? Where would you fix the frame to?

I measured the width of the door framing and it come out at 90mm! :?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 5:44 pm 
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do you mean you want the part above the door flush with the wall ?

Stud frame - plasterboard 2-3mm under the level of the wall and skim, you can plasterboard under the edge of the box/frame and use a corner bead to give you a nice bottom edge

if you want it seamless finish take back the plaster either side and remove the bead so you can lose the edge



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 9:13 pm 
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Bob225 wrote:
do you mean you want the part above the door flush with the wall ?

Stud frame - plasterboard 2-3mm under the level of the wall and skim, you can plasterboard under the edge of the box/frame and use a corner bead to give you a nice bottom edge

if you want it seamless finish take back the plaster either side and remove the bead so you can lose the edge
Do you mean literally remove the plaster to the right and left of the window frame and tin snip the bead out?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 9:14 pm 
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Bob225 wrote:
do you mean you want the part above the door flush with the wall ?

Stud frame - plasterboard 2-3mm under the level of the wall and skim, you can plasterboard under the edge of the box/frame and use a corner bead to give you a nice bottom edge

if you want it seamless finish take back the plaster either side and remove the bead so you can lose the edge
Yes I want the part above the door as if it wasn't there

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 8:19 am 
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I know they are a bit old fashioned but I quite like the fact we have them in our flat.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 3:38 pm 
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In a word yes, the finished effect would be a door inset into a wall, simple enough job - try not to over think it

you could even extend the frame out and have a architrave around the opening giving the door a deep inset look


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 6:19 pm 
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Just out of curiosity what's to stop me using a router to take back the door framing back by 12.5mm + 3mm each side then just plasterboard over that?

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 7:44 pm 
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sorry I need to get my eyes checked :? I didn't enlarge the pic, it looked like it was inset but its just where the arc was doh :tool: :roll: :roll: :roll:

throw in a few noggins, router the frame back, plasterboard over skim to finish, its a small area so a bit of 9.5mm PB will do the trick


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