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 Post subject: recladding garage door
PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 5:09 pm 
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I have a pair of old side-opening gargage doors that I would like to reclad. I plan on leaving the frame and just pulling off the old tongue and groove. Then getting some new timber and recladding. Each door has a framed edge with with t&g inside it. I will have to replace both.

(I'm afraid I don't know how to insert an image and this is the only way I could think of!)

http://www.diynot.com/network/seneca/albums/6165/24827

http://www.diynot.com/network/seneca/albums/6165/24828

Here are my questions -

1) what's the best timber to use to reclad - treated? untreated, t&g or not - (I imagine it is best to keep things as lightweight as possible)

2) any tips on using t&g cladding ( i heard that they should not be pressed tightly together to allow for expansion)

3) what's the best way to attach the cladding (i don't have a nail-gun!) eg. the type of nail, should i pre-drill the pilot hole

That was all part of my original idea - but then I thought - could I put a small window into each door to allow some light in. The problem is the top diagonal brace on the door. I would need to remove it, and the solidity of the door would be lost, and it would most likely sag and fall apart. Can it be done? if so how?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 8:15 pm 
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use treated cladding the same size as you take out get it from a wood yard and not the sheds
make shure the cladding is thinner than the rebate
i prefer to cut a 12mm trenchin the frame to accept the cladding but not possible in this case unless already fitted
leave a 2mm gap between planks if the timber is very very dry

screw from the back to leave neat face one screw per plank

you should fully paint especialy the bottom before instalation

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 9:50 pm 
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Quote:
screw from the back to leave neat face one screw per plank


never thought of that! So you mean go through the back of the frame and just into the cladding. I imagine the cladding will be around 13mm, so the screw will just pinch in. Is there a certian kind of screw that is good for this? Will that be secure enough? When I ws building a shed I was told to predrill holes a bit larger than the screw, to allow for expansion on the shiplap.
when you mean paint before installing, you mean paint the whole door before hanging it? any particular reasons? The doors are on lift of hinges, so it should be easy enough to do.

thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 10:48 pm 
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usualy people forget about the bottom off the door which is the most vunerable bit because off the end grain

i use turbo gold assuming your diagonals are 22mm and your panels are 13mm if you use 35mm screws you just wind them till the head is tight to the wood or use 30mm pulled in 3mm
dont worry about allowing for movement because your within a closed frame so expansion is captive just make shure you leave a 2/3mm gap between each board and if your edges are in a 13x13mm slot you have 5mm expansion gap each side

merlin 50 seems a bit grumpy lol :boxing:

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