Hi Everyone
I have a damaged leaking radiator pipe 10mm micro bore I believe (is that a safe assumption definitely not 15mm, is 8mm used in central heating systems?)

The radiator has come of the wall on the left hand side as you look at it, I guess someone was sitting on it. The pipe is damaged where the pipe enters the radiator valve (so I am told)

I think the valve is a 15mm TRV with a 15mm x 10mm Reducer I haven’t seen the damage yet (got that to look forward to tomorrow) but I guess the weight of the rad. has kinked the pipe at the point where the pipe enters the valve or a few millimetres below that.

FYI
The pipes do not run vertically up and down at both ends of the rad. The left hand feed comes up from the floor on the right and is piped along the wall, just tucked up behind the radiator (see rubbish illustration attached for clarification as I have no photos as yet).

I don't have any 10mm pipe in my tool box and don't want to shell out for it as most suppliers deal in coils from 10m upwards and I only need about 150mm at a guess to pipe an new bit from valve to existing.
I do have a meter or so of copper 15mm and 10m or so or plastic 15mm to work with

Assuming the plasterboard wall is not so damaged with the radiator wall bracket getting ripped out of the wall that I can get the bracket re-hung and the radiator kept in its original location. I have I believe 4 options

1: Pray that after cutting out the damaged bit there is enough slack to re-pipe it, but that assumes the 15mm x 10mm Reducer is recoverable (is that an easy thing to remove and reuse or best buy a new one (can you buy them individually?))

2: Make a standard 15mm compression join to the radiator using copper pipe, use a copper push fit 15mm to 15mm elbow to go right pipe in a 6” or so piece of 15mm to the elbow then couple that to the existing 10mm pipe (kinda untidy) (can you get a 15mm to 10mm copper push fit elbow? That would help)

3 As above but lift carpets and floor boards and run 15mm pipe from rad valve below floor level and re-pipe that way. (tidy but a lot of work to make good)

4 Wave white flag and call in a professional

Sorry for dragging it out and all input appreciated

Cheers
James

Cut the plasterboard and fit noggins in the wall.

You can re-pipe it how you like once it's hanging on the wall.

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Thanks I was hoping not to have to do that but I guess thats the way to go. Otherwise someone else will sit on it at a later date causing the problem again

Cheers
James

James, I've just posted a method in the Top Tips thread.
HTH............

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I would just carefully cut a letter box size slot in the plasterboard between the uprights, fix the noggin and replace the piece of plasterboard you cut out, make good around the edge.

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Thanks all so far
I have now been to see the problem and all is not as I had said (was told)
The wall is plaster on brick or block work not sure which but its a solid wall not plaster board.
Also there is plenty of play left in the pipes for me to use without needing to join a bit on
and the pipe is 8mm not 10mm as I thought.

Got a new issue with it now.
I need to fit an new radiator valve I bought a 10mm valve with a 8mm reducer but I am unsure how to fit it. I am OK with a 15mm set up done that a few times now but never fitted a valve with a reducer before.

Do you still use the 10mm olive or is that discard when the reducer is used?
Looking at the photo attached do I have the reducer the correct way up?
Do I need to use PTFE tape on this sort of joint?

Cheers
James

PS I didnt know you could buy an 8mm valve, I told the bloke in the shop what my situation was and he suggested the 10mm with a 8mm reducer
It cost more than a fiver which, now I have done a little research seems a bit pricey I would take it back but Its opened now

Put the nut on the pipe then the reducer (it will only go one way) then fit it into the valve and do it up, Tight.

You don't use the 10mm olive.

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Top tip for the new guys like me.
Taking the valve appart its not obvious the reducer only fits the correct way up but kinda obvious once pointed out as it stops novices like me getting it wrong
Thanks again Scruff

Cheers
James

Sorry forgot to clarify is PTFE tape needed? I guess not as its just another type of compression joint but thought I would ask anyway

Cheers
James

No ptfe, although I would use a jointing compound

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As Scruff says, just make sure the pipe comes all the way to the top ring of the fitting

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Thanks Scruff / Razor
With the jointing compount I guess I add some to the threads on the inside of the nut and outside of the main valve is that correct?
I have never used it before (good learning curve on this little job)

Cheers
James

Just on the reducer James.

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Thanks Scruff
I had already done the job today but take what you tell me on board for next time
I didnt have jointing compound so I bought some and as I had pleanty I put it on everything
which seemed to work as its all back together and as yet leek free.

Anyone else reading this post who is in the same predicament as me dont do as I did, using to much compound
just makes a mess when its tightened up giving you more work to do cleaning it up

One quick question before I call this post a done deal
Having put the jointing compound on the threads will I have difficulty removing the valve at a later stage?
Not that I intend to, just asking for future reference.

Cheers
James

I used to put it on the thread as a lubricant when using some of the compression fittings.

So no, it won't make any difference to getting it undone in the future.

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