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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 12:45 pm 
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Just been attempting some sunday DIY and have hit a problem. My problem is the wall cabinet im fitting is quite heavy and im hanging it on a tiled cavity wall, i located a beam behind the tiles but there is about an half inch void between the back of the plasterboard to this beam so when i screwed in to the beam i could hear stress cracking on the tile (nothing visible) so to me it seems because of this void the tile is being pulled inwards before the screw has even tightened. The brackets they sent are identical to the ones on kitchen wall units, so because of how close the 3 holes on the wall bracket are doesnt leave me much room for drilling big holes to allow for heavy duty fixings. So does anybody know any ideas on how to hang it?? and also will this tile now be ok with the stress noise i heard


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 3:26 pm 
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Two things to try; firstly drill a hole into the wall and blow some expanding foam into it (not too much!). Once set this will provide extra support, but it doesn't always work. Secondly on poor quality walls I almost always throw away the hanging brackets most kitchen suppliers provide (these things) and instead use long steel rails run across the backs of a run of cabinets (which need the backs notching out to accommodate). These are easier to level up and allow me to put more fixings (very useful on stud walls).

In extreme cases I have been known to rip out a section of wall board (plasterboard, tiles, etc) behind the cupboard(s) and fix a timber/plywood pattress directly to the masonry wall to carry the weight (built-up to the correct level). Once the cabinet is on the butchery work won't ever be seen. I just try to ensure that the customer can't see me doing this as they can get awfully upset, although not half as upset as they would be if they were to load the cabinet up with Royal Doulton and then have it fall off the wall! ::b


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 3:56 pm 
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Or drill a 16mm hole through the tiles and use a bit of 15mm pipe as a spacer from the beam to the front of the tiles and fix it right through :wink:


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:23 pm 
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Secondly on poor quality walls I almost always throw away the hanging brackets most kitchen suppliers provide (these things) and instead use long steel rails run across the backs of a run of cabinets (which need the backs notching out to accommodate). These are easier to level up and allow me to put more fixings (very useful on stud walls).


Really like the idea of this, so do i just fix the rail to the wall and then i still use the cabinet hooks that are inside the cabinet?? and when you say it allows you to use more fixings do you mean into this rail on the wall for strength.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 12:04 am 
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dweezle wrote:
do i just fix the rail to the wall and then i still use the cabinet hooks that are inside the cabinet?? and when you say it allows you to use more fixings do you mean into this rail on the wall for strength.

Yes, these longer rail sections are sawn to length with a hacksaw (and if you are unhappy with sawing steel they also do them in aluminium) and the beauty is that you can drop fixings in along the whole length. They are especially useful in stud walls where I use them screwed into the studs and also secured using metal Redidrivas in between/at the ends. Means I can get 4 or 5 fixings in between the hangers. They do indeed workl with the standard hangers, although as I said you'll need to notch out the rear of the cabinets if you intend to run them across the backs of a run of cabinets


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