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 Post subject: Dot and dab
PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:00 am 
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Hi,

I have a horrible brick wall in my kitchen, its been built for decorative effect sometime many years back, Im going to board it before skimming.

Ive read some great advice on this forum about applying the board to the wall but still have a few questions:

1. I dont have a vehicle large enough to transport 8'x4' is it essential to use floor to ceiling size boards or can I make it all up out of smaller panels that I can fit in my car?

2. Do I use standard plasterboard (if so what thickness?) or is there special stuff for putting on walls?

3. On the joints can I just put some joint tape then skim or do I need to mix up joint filler?

Any help will be greatly appreciated!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:32 am 
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Hi Noodle

You can use smaller boards but id personally use 8x4 less work and less joins. Can you not have it delivered?

I'd use 12.5mm thick boards more rigid and easier to dot and dab with.

Just tape and skim.

These are my prefferances and they work for me but im not a proffesional plasterer. If im wrong somebody will be here to correct me soon. Also have you tried looking here http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/PLASTER_BOARDING_DIREcT_BOND.htm

also here for tapinghttp://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/PLASTERING_TAPING_JOINTS.htm


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 8:35 pm 
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Hi Noodle,

I've just done my first dot and dab job, it was my kitchen at 4.5m x 2.8m and used 12 boards in all and 6 sacks of adhesive.

I used 12.5mm 2400 x 1200mm boards and apart from lifting them on my own, i am glad i used them as it was really easy to level them up. The hardest wall was the sink & window wall as that was all cut & shuts and a pain to level up.

I had the boards delivered from Travis Perkins.

The only tips i can give (not being a plasterer) is to mix the glue stiff with a power mixer in the drill and try and get the dots roughly the same size, then slap the board on, level the vertical edge then tap back to give a flat & plumb wall.

My walls were mostly covered with units and tiles so i just taped and jointed to a feather edge and left them bare.

It looks really great now, i am nearly done fitting the units.

Dave K

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:40 pm 
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I can get 6'x3' in the back of my car and have used them successfully for dot n dabbing. Use a straightedge or a nice straight piece of timber to tap the boards in vertically and horizontally. If the wall is fairly straight you could screw 2"x1" pieces of timber to it and then screw the boards onto the timber.

If you're dot n dabbing, ensure you pack out boards edges with adhesive to provide support at the joins.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 1:09 pm 
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hiya Noodle one tip dont think anyony has mentioned .. make sure you have a gap from floor to plasterboard :-)


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 1:26 pm 
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excellent thanks for that chaps, just arranged the delivery from TP on friday. so im ready for action :boxing:


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