I got an 8" Ebauer Saw early this morning. Overall, it seems not bad. I think the reviews on screwfix are too generous though.


Good points

However, very little play on the features, maybe this will change over time.
Lots of features
Good range, great for boxing
Light.
Cheap price, Not worth more. If it was £100, would be a great buy (previous price)

Bad Points

Main gripe is that the saw would not fully cut the wood unless you have the saw depth at almost the maximum. The fence could do with coming forward an 1/2 inch. This might be due to the size of the blade dunno? I made up 2 blocks of hardwood and bolted them to the fence but its not ideal if you want a shallow cut. This is exaggerated on a 45deg bevel cut

Does anybody know if the 10" version would be better? Is the only advantage a thicker cutting ability

Factory settings are out of line, not accurate at all. Tested various wood cuttings with combination square. Not a big deal but spent a fair bit of time fiddling about to get the angles set.

Guides are not very accurate. When you line up the 90deg perfectly (bevel cut) the 45deg is out. Marker shows its a 47deg or so. I just set the screw stops to the correct levels but means written guides will not be correct

Base has 2 clamping mounts positions but only come with 1 clamp.

Doesn't come with mounting bolts.

Dust bag is useless, After about 20 cuts more dust on me than in the bag, not bothered by that too much though

A bevel cut is hard to do as the clamp handle can gets in the way.

Maybe I am being too harsh on the review and the others reviews on screwfix are not so fussy or anal as me about the lack of accuracy but overall its not bad. It doesn't deserve the 5* everybody rates it on screwfix, but this was on sale at <£100 so I can see why they are happy. It cost me £140, a long long way off the price of an equalivant DeWalt or Makita but get what you pay for I suppose

I got a 10" Rage saw from screwfix a year or so ago now.

Bad points.
Has all the same faults as you list above.
In addition the spindle lock seems to be weak (it broke the second time I removed the blade) and the laser does not quite line up with the cut.
Replacement blades are expensive (but cheaper ones do fit and work just as well except you loose the ability to cut steel)

Good points.
Cuts metal as well as wood with the same blade. Many people say "but I do not need to cut matal" however if you are using anything other than virgin wood and catch a nail with a standard saw the blade is blunted. A rage can cut through nails all day long.
The 10" version only costs £10 to £20 more than you paid.

the idea is you get the maximum cut on a pull saw when not trenching

you move the fence forward 20mm you loose 20mm off the width capacity

when your trenching just measure from the blade centre to the fence and place a batton the same size on the fence and problem solved

you often only get 1 clamp that not that unusual 'to be honest i have never used a clamp

What do you mean by trenching Big-All?

Is it normal on all machines to have the blade not cut the full distance to the fence unless you set the blade depth to maximum. I suppose a baton with a few bolts and wing nuts would be good to keep in the box.

Is it good practice to have the blade depth about 3mm below the bottom face of the wood to be cut and use a baton on the fence ?

I tried it without the clamp but the machine doesn't have a soft start so it kicks a bit and knocks you wood out a touch, also I have no experience with these so just want to be safe.


Mike, it was a toss up between the Rage and Ebauer. I wanted a good sliding range. Have used it a lot today for MDF boxing (250mm high so the range was very helpfull )

I am happy enought with it as it has made life easier and would recommend it. I should have bought one long ago as it would have made doing my kitchen and bathroom look neater. I'd imagine the Ryobi would be the start of the decent makes but at £250, its just too pricy for me

Yeah use maximum depth for full cut.

Trenching is where you don't cut full depth - i.e. you're cutting a trench across the wood.

Personally I would have bought the Axminster over the Ebauer

yep as darrenba says altough easier to visualise as a half lap or tennon after 20 or 30 passes

and with the batton you simply hold it firmly with the workpeice it dosnt matter if it moves with the workpeice as you move it the 2.5mm or so for the next groove

you only need the batton on the half you are holding on to