| Author |
Message |
|
tommo
|
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 1:05 pm |
|
 |
| Newly registered Member |
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:49 pm Posts: 9 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
|
Hi, Could anyone tell what's the minimum distance between wall and plasterboard when dot'n'dabbing? Also, can I use that method on unpainted plaster? Thanks a lot, Tom
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
|
Orrill
|
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:52 pm |
|
 |
| Newly registered Member |
Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:50 am Posts: 14 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
|
I don't think there is a minimum distance (not that I know of anyway)
It should be fine to dab onto plaster as long as it solid and not coming away from the wall.
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
jozeffo
|
Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:08 pm |
|
 |
| Senior Member |
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2008 7:52 pm Posts: 2171 Location: South London Has thanked: 42 times Been thanked: 239 times
|
|
I wouldn't go less than 1cm. If you pva the wall, you will reduce the risk of the compound failing.
Alternatively, you can board using special foam in a can which is quicker and cheaper. The specification for this suggests that it is 6mm thick so you could have a total of 15.5mm if you use thin board or 18.5mm if you use thicker ones which are easier to use and give a straighter finish with less effort.
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
Raf
|
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 1:39 pm |
|
 |
| Senior Member |
Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 4:47 pm Posts: 725 Location: Lancs Has thanked: 1 times Been thanked: 4 times
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
leebwk
|
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 2:12 pm |
|
 |
| Senior Member |
 |
Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:16 am Posts: 1591 Location: Oxford Has thanked: 3 times Been thanked: 29 times
|
|
I would only PVA the wall if it is dusty ie removal of old plaster prior to dot and dab otherwise you will be ok Dri-wall adhesive sticks like you know what to a blanket
_________________ If you think nobody cares, try missing a couple of payments..
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
thescruff
|
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 3:44 pm |
|
 |
| OAP |
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:46 am Posts: 39120 Has thanked: 181 times Been thanked: 1981 times
|
|
Anytime I've watched the experts doit, they have whacked great big blobs of the stuff all over the wall, must be 50-60mm thick, then they place the sheet in place, and whack it flat with a box section straight edge.
I followed the same style when i did the club and it worked out fine, I found the big blobs allowed me to get the sheets vertical and flat.
_________________ --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you feel you have benefited from the Free advice given on the Forum, Please consider making a donation to UHM's Nominated charity, read all about it and donate here : donnas-dream-house-charity-t52110.html
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
tommo
|
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 5:59 pm |
|
 |
| Newly registered Member |
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:49 pm Posts: 9 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
leebwk wrote: I would only PVA the wall if it is dusty ie removal of old plaster prior to dot and dab otherwise you will be ok Dri-wall adhesive sticks like you know what to a blanket
But it wouldn't stick to paint, would it? I am currently in (painful) process of removing it from walls. For some reason paint in my lounge is quite well stuck.
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
thescruff
|
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:13 pm |
|
 |
| OAP |
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:46 am Posts: 39120 Has thanked: 181 times Been thanked: 1981 times
|
|
Ok, so I'm a plumber, but have stuck it on paint before.
Why do you say you can't.
_________________ --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you feel you have benefited from the Free advice given on the Forum, Please consider making a donation to UHM's Nominated charity, read all about it and donate here : donnas-dream-house-charity-t52110.html
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
tommo
|
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:18 pm |
|
 |
| Newly registered Member |
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:49 pm Posts: 9 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
thescruff wrote: Ok, so I'm a plumber, but have stuck it on paint before.
Why do you say you can't.
I meant I am removing paint before going over with plasterboard. Because paint is not coming off easily I thought I could leave it.
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
thescruff
|
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:21 pm |
|
 |
| OAP |
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:46 am Posts: 39120 Has thanked: 181 times Been thanked: 1981 times
|
|
As I said, I have dot and dab painted walls with no problem.
The experts will comment no doubt.
_________________ --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you feel you have benefited from the Free advice given on the Forum, Please consider making a donation to UHM's Nominated charity, read all about it and donate here : donnas-dream-house-charity-t52110.html
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
Pristineplastering
|
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:34 pm |
|
 |
| Senior Member |
Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2008 5:57 pm Posts: 333 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 16 times
|
|
Dont waste any more time chief !!!!
Dri Wall adhesive sticks to almost anything there is no need whatsoever to scrape the paint off - If you are still worried, give the wall surface a key with a devil float but for gawd's sake dont scrape the paint off - It must be soul destroying
Mix up a bag of adhesive (dont use the cans ,they're messy and dont hold alot) in a gorilla tub and throw a bucket trowel's worth at regular intervals (every 8-10inches or so) - only dab enough for one board at a time and take your time on your first board as all others will run off it
Once the wall's dabbed, offer up your sheet of board, push home hard all over by hand, and then knock it home HARD with a length of 3x2 CLS timber - dont be afraid to hit it hard - you wont damage the board
And dont scrimp on the adhesive - dont be tight , a bag will last for about 2 , maybe 3 boards , no more
Good luck !
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
tommo
|
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:57 pm |
|
 |
| Newly registered Member |
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:49 pm Posts: 9 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
Pristineplastering wrote: It must be soul destroying
It is, you're right ;) I appreciate your reply!
I am also trying to achieve is to push plasterboard as close to the wall as possible. There is already a radiator and I don't want to come to close to that. Do you think putting more but smaller dabs will help?
Thanks!
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
rubber_hammer
|
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 7:19 pm |
|
 |
| Senior Member |
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2007 2:33 pm Posts: 141 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
|
Don't mix the adhesive too stiff and you will be able to knock the board in quite close to the existing wall as the adhesive will spread out behind the board - it won't spread properly if it's too stiff.
The radiator brackets can usually be fitted two ways, one will position the radiator further away from the wall than the other way. If it's on the further away position at the monent you can just turn the bracket over and you'll stand a good chance of it fitting just fine with the existing pipework positions.
_________________ I always blame my tools
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
fin
|
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 7:26 pm |
|
 |
| Senior Member |
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:49 pm Posts: 1366 Location: south tyneside Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 57 times
|
|
hmm ive always put my dots onto the back of the board then stuck it to the wall. ohh well different methods i guess
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
Raf
|
Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:39 am |
|
 |
| Senior Member |
Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 4:47 pm Posts: 725 Location: Lancs Has thanked: 1 times Been thanked: 4 times
|
fin when i did some dot & dabbing i did it on the boards; you can place nicer more consistent blobs and its much easier. i did try the wall but you have to kind of fling it; then if its a wet mix get some splash in your effin eye
someone mentioned drywall adhesive in a can.... any links & is it any good? okay it may be messy but i can be quite messy mixing adhesive!
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in