DIY Forum

 

Ultimate Handyman Ultimate Handyman Ultimate Handyman Ultimate Handyman

 

DIY Forum/Home improvement advice

 

 

A-Z CONTENTS | DISCLAIMER | DIRECTORY | DIY VIDEO | HOME | SAFETY FIRST | FORUM RULES

It is currently Fri Aug 22, 2014 4:41 pm


Time zone: Europe/London [ DST ]




 

 


Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 29 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 12:51 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 11:43 am
Posts: 14
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
Hello there,
I've just bought a RF room thermostat and am having a few problems installing it. It's a Worcester Bosch 24CDi boiler and also a Worcester digistat and receiver. I removed the manual timer and installed the receiver by plugging in the connector to the circuit board as shown in the instructions. All works well except the central heating doesn't kick in when the receiver says it is on. I'm guessing this is something to do with the wiring I removed from the manual timer. There's 5 terminals on the timer. 1 and 5 are brown wires, 2 is white , 3 is grey and 4 is a blank. Do these wires need to go somewhere else or am I completely on the wrong track? Any advice or help would be much appreciated. Cheers


Top
 Profile  
 

You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you register or log in

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:54 pm 
Offline
Senior Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 10:02 pm
Posts: 3844
Location: Cheshire
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 4 times
Have you synced the RF unit with the receiver :scratch:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 7:07 pm 
Offline
Senior Member
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:46 am
Posts: 45703
Has thanked: 253 times
Been thanked: 2902 times
Which rf stat have you got.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 7:25 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 11:43 am
Posts: 14
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
Yeah it synced fine. If you turn the digistat control up then the green light comes on on the receiver to say the heating is now on but the boiler doesn't fire up. It's a Worcester CDi series thermostat MkII.
Worcester Bosch Part no. 7 716 192 049
I just wondered if it was right that the old wiring for the manual timer was still there but not in use.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 7:30 pm 
Offline
Senior Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 10:02 pm
Posts: 3844
Location: Cheshire
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 4 times
Just out of interest where did you buy the digistat and how much. The only reason I ask is that mine (5 yr old) doesn't display the correct temperature or at least shows it about 6 degrees lower than it actually is :scratch: so I need to get a replacement but they are quite expensive :shock:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 9:01 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 11:43 am
Posts: 14
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
http://www.lincsgas.com/
£120 for the combined unit but I reckon you could find a new digistat on ebay for a decent price.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 9:33 pm 
Offline
Senior Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 10:02 pm
Posts: 3844
Location: Cheshire
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 4 times
Thanks :thumbright: Even more than I was expecting considering its the MkII :scratch:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 10:48 pm 
Offline
Senior Member
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:46 am
Posts: 45703
Has thanked: 253 times
Been thanked: 2902 times
Can't find the stat yet :oops:

How have you wired the boiler end.

There should be a live on LS and a switched live on LR


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:02 am 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 11:43 am
Posts: 14
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
The old Worcester part no. is 7 716 192 006. They updated it recently to the new one. This is the problem, I've just followed the instructions regarding plugging in the connecter to the circuit board. Nothing is mentioned about wiring the boiler. I disconnected the original manual timer so the wiring for this is just hanging loose. 2 brown, 1 grey, 1 white wires. Where are LS and LR connections?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 12:41 pm 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2008 6:11 pm
Posts: 2039
Location: North Hampshire
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 1 times
I was working on a W/B installation recently (I was doing the electrical work) and go along with Scruff query. The one I was working with was the W/B CDi40 with three 2-port valves and a Magaflow. Conventional room stat in house and wireless stat in conservatory.

The W/B wiring is a bit 'odd' in that it assumes that an FCU feeds permanent live and neutral to the boiler PCB and the boiler PCB then issues a LS (Live Source) to the remote Y-S wiring station and the the remote wiring station sends a Live Return (LR) which in normal terminology is the demand to the boiler. When W/B ship these boilers heer ius a link between LR and LS which should be removed. Also the W/B PCB also issues the live and neutral to a remote pump (wired direct). Thus the boiler is able to purge the lines and have pump over-run.

I found it all a bit odd until I worked out waht was going on as I had wired it conventionally with an FCU feeding the wiring station in an S-plan format

_________________
Old Gits Know Best ... I think


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 1:01 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 11:43 am
Posts: 14
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
Okay, so I understand some of what you're saying and some it is a little over my head! Where do I look & what do I do to remove the link between LR and LS?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 1:26 pm 
Offline
Senior Member
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:46 am
Posts: 45703
Has thanked: 253 times
Been thanked: 2902 times
You will find it in the control panel ST8.

The problem we have is not knowing how you have wired the receiver.

The link is probably already removed and wants to go back.

You need to check with WB but I think the two browns hanging loose should be joined if you don't use the inbuilt clock.

Have you run a permanent live to the boiler.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 1:54 pm 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2008 6:11 pm
Posts: 2039
Location: North Hampshire
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 1 times
I do not know the 24CDi but I suspect it is similar to the 40CDi.

Remove the cover. Unsrew the screw than holds dwn the front pane (the one with a two knobs and light on it at the lower section). The panel drops down it is held by retainers and cannot fall away.

Inside you will probably see a grey plastic cover that covers the electrical PCB. There is plastic cover that can be removed (takes a little practice!) and it is held down by three screws. When removed the PCB will be exposed and towards to upper left is the ST8 (in my case it was ST10) plug and socket. The signals are named on the plug (L, N, LR, LS etc).

I think you will also see a wiring diagram the boilers are shipped with a general layout of piping and electrical stuck on the front of the boiler.

Mute point - and maybe Scruff can shed some light on the matter - but I was told that only a Corgi Registerecd fitter is allowed to remove the covers off boilers! I have taken the covers off dozens of them and I am not Corgi registered! :oops: :wink:

_________________
Old Gits Know Best ... I think


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 2:05 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2008 11:43 am
Posts: 14
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
Forgot to say at the start that the boiler is a rebranded Celsia 24LE. Not sure if that makes any difference or not. The receiver is connected to the PCB at ST5. I called WB when I was first having problems and the guy started to tell me something about a link until he realised I was not qualified and then said I should call an electrician. The annoying thing is I could have bought a none WB thermostat and had an electrician fit it for less than the WB part cost. I only bought the WB part because I'd read I could fit it myself! Joining the two browns seems to make sense to me. Could this do any harm in your opinion or is the old timer just joining these in theory anyway? Cheers.

Edit: just seen your post 'Victor'. Thanks to you both, will give it a go.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 2:17 pm 
Offline
Senior Member
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:46 am
Posts: 45703
Has thanked: 253 times
Been thanked: 2902 times
That's an British gas re-badged boiler, don't know if I have any info on it.

Don't touch anything yet. :roll:


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 29 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next



Similar topics
   

Time zone: Europe/London [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  


News News Site map Site map SitemapIndex SitemapIndex RSS Feed RSS Feed Channel list Channel list
ultimatehandyman privacy policy

Contact

 



phpBB SEO