  
|
www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk Forum Index
-> Building Forum |
|
| Author |
Message |
Tobe
Senior Member
Joined: 22 Jun 2007
Posts: 126
Location: Pembrokeshire
|
 Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 7:59 am Post subject: finishing concrete |
  |
|
|
hey peeps,
ok so gonna relay my drive but how do i finish the concrete to a nice finish and how often should ther be expansion joint. and exactly what do i do with them.
have laid shed base's etc loads but the finish has never been important.
cheers
tobe.
(any thoughts on colourants?
_________________
Keep your face to the sun, so you cannot see the shadow!! |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
|
izalarfin
Senior Member
Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 141
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 1:04 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
how big is the drive ? is it tight up against walls ?
what sort of finish do you want ? is the drive on a steep slope ?
are you mixing the concrete yourself ?.
a bit more detail please.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tobe
Senior Member
Joined: 22 Jun 2007
Posts: 126
Location: Pembrokeshire
|
| Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 7:21 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
ok,
approx 100m2, some is up agints walls and edging kerbs. was thinking of a smooth finish or something i can do myself that looks good. not a steep slope, more a less flat, slight run. would like to mix my self but depends o cost from a supplier (any ideas)
cheers
_________________
Keep your face to the sun, so you cannot see the shadow!! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
izalarfin
Senior Member
Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 141
|
| Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:04 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
was really looking for length x width, but against a wall I'd use a expansion foam strip or fibre board or leave a gap and fill with stone,
slate, etc,
divide your length for your joints, if you lay it in sections you can remove the shutter between sections this will then force a straight crack
for the joint as if you'd used crack inducers, the crack it self is then the expansion joint.
as for cost some like £60/100 depending on the mix per cube but a few phone call will answer that,
a plastic float finish is good it hides a few sins and give you a grip to walk on in the wet and frost.
if the wall is your house wall then I would go for the gap and stones.
if you mix it yourself you can lay a band, tramp it, float it then lay another band until you,ve done a section,
if you have it by the lorry then try to work it so you have 4 cube + as there is an extra charge for less for a single load.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tobe
Senior Member
Joined: 22 Jun 2007
Posts: 126
Location: Pembrokeshire
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
izalarfin
Senior Member
Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 141
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 8:21 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
for the foot path dig out 200mm then back fill with a 100mm of type 1 hardcore use a whacker plate to compress the hardcore
100mm of concrete, I'd follow the front house line and put one joint across there and on the front at the start of the angle.
the angle piece I would put in on its own, on its 8m from the wall edge I would use fibre board for this joint place this inside your shutter
and concrete this in flush to the top of the shutter, this will then be stuck there when you take the shutter away.
I'd use fibre board along the length of the wall, you can nail,screw it to the wall so it gives you your level line, the split, 3 at 5x8 or 4 by
nearly 4x8 ( to tired to work it out, been up since 4am and had a 13 hour day today) depth, dig out 300mm, choice, 150mm hardcore
laid in 2 layers whacker plate each layer 150mm concrete, ( I'd do it this way for myself ) or 200mm hardcore 2 layers, whacker each
100mm concrete, this may last you years this way but if there is a hollow in the hardcore years later or a 8m a gateway a truck may turn
round on it and break it, if at 8m's wide you are having a 7½ ton truck on it then you want 200mm of concrete and 200mm hardcore.
as for colours I've not a clue.
if you go with 100mm concrete then you could put 1 layer of 8mm mesh in it as this would be the same as 150mm of concrete and if
it cracked it wouldn't kick up at the break.
are all your edging in ?. if not over dig your width's down to depth and lay them on a semi dry mix of concrete and back them up with
the same mix.
keep your concrete damp for a day or 2 this will help it cure better / harder.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tobe
Senior Member
Joined: 22 Jun 2007
Posts: 126
Location: Pembrokeshire
|
| Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 5:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
ok, cheers ofr that, very useful info, much appreciated
_________________
Keep your face to the sun, so you cannot see the shadow!! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
marksson
Senior Member
Joined: 12 Feb 2007
Posts: 436
|
| Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 5:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
I've been wondering about equivalents, concrete depth without rebar & concrete with.
So are we saying an A142 mesh on castles in 100mm of concrete is the same as 150mm of concrete with no mesh?
_________________
Building Materials Sourcing
Softly, softly catchee monkey |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
izalarfin
Senior Member
Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 141
|
| Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 5:14 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
| yes but you should check with an engineer for its true value.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
FAQ
Search
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
