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19ninety
Junior Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 36
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 Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 6:23 pm Post subject: Which route to run pipes? |
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Hi
I'm going to be chasing out two walls this weekend to hide the central heating pipes, I'm planning to use the john guest speedfit couplings and pipe from screw fix. See image below for the situation.
I'm looking to run the pipe through 22mm conduit to prevent the plaster from cracking once the wall is repaired and will be joining this to the old pipes under the floor in the room above. I'm looking to have the poly pipes exit the wall behind the radiator, even though the radiator is only 350mm high.
A couple of questions, can I use the new style speedfit coupling to join the copper pipe to the new poly pipe?
Will THIS (CLICK HERE) be the best way to get the pipes from the bottom of an angled thermostatic valve to behind the radiator in the neatest way?
Will it be safe for me to run that annoyingly placed mains cable pictured in the same chase out? Although I expect it isnt ideal?
Thanks in advance for your help 
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Steve the Gas
Senior Member
Joined: 30 May 2008
Posts: 799
Location: Notts/Derbys
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| Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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Hi,
The fitting on the link --- NO
Yes you can join plastic to copper, but, are you aware you need inserts for the plastic?
The cable shouldn't be in the same chase as CH pipes 
Tails from rad in copper then revert to plastic under the boxing in I presume your gonna do ? If you must 
P.S How big is the room?
Hth |
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19ninety
Junior Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 36
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| Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:28 pm Post subject: |
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Yes I'm getting the plastic inserts that go into the poly pipe.
Wondering really if there is a coupling from the plastic pipes to the bottom of the thermo valves, removing the need for any copper.
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 5720
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, get an Speedfit stem elbow PEM 221515w
if that is not available yet a PKM221515w
If you are using 12mm tube with 10mm valves the last number would be 1210. or for 10mm tube 1010.
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Scruff |
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bathstyle
BATHROOM DESIGN AND INSTALLATION
Joined: 17 Jan 2006
Posts: 796
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| Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 11:09 pm Post subject: |
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| Yep, Scruff is bang on, that was the system I was thinking of |
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19ninety
Junior Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 36
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19ninety
Junior Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 36
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 9:44 am Post subject: |
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Also, heres the plan under the floor to join the pipes.
RED: Simple, cut pipe and insert joint.
GREEN: Cut pipe, fit blank
BLUE: Insert T-piece
YELLOW: Drill through joist to allow pipes to drop out of ceiling into chase in wall - rather then 6cm in front of wall as they are now.
I'm thinking about maybe cutting out the original copper t-piece and joining a little further down under the floor instead of having a capped pipe that may leak... |
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 5720
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 10:36 am Post subject: |
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You forgot the normal elbows.
Why cut another Tee in there looks to be enough room to connect onto the tail.
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Scruff |
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19ninety
Junior Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 36
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 12:53 pm Post subject: |
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your right I did, and the PTFE tape  Back to wickes in a min then, screwfix had everything else instock, got the pipe inserts from Wickes as they do a 10pack of JGuest ones (packaged in Wicks own bag - but has JG on the back). I also bought copper olives for fixing the elbows to the thermo valves, to replace the standard brass ones.
Heres a better image now I have the couplings to show why I was thinking of cutting out the old tee and fitting a JG one further towards the camera. The old one had 3 bends in it, so I cut it leaving the longest possible straight section to fit the coupling, but the poly pipe will be tight against the joist and thats gonna put pressure on the coupling at and angle and also the soldered joints on the copper pipe.
Theres not alot of room to work, both tee's are under a built in wardrobe.
seems acheapo job of installing the central heating too, the pipe insulation has only been put where the pipes show when you lift the boards ... |
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 5720
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 4:16 pm Post subject: |
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If you replace the straight socket for a bend then swing it to where you want with another bend looking through the floor. 
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Scruff |
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19ninety
Junior Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 36
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 9:13 pm Post subject: |
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you've done this before haven't you? 
well its a great idea, and will have a go at that as it'll set me up with some better angles to get the pipe down.
I'm beginning to wonder if using 22mm conduit was a good idea, its been a nightmare to chase the walls deep enough for two of those!! Must have been a crazy moment getting that, but would the 15mm conduit have enough room internally to allow for expansion of the pipe to stop plaster cracking? If so I may get a roll of that instead...?
Thanks for your help so far mr scruff :D very much appreciated!
edit
Should have read the speedfit website,
"Speedfit Conduit Pipe is supplied in either 15mm or 22mm (internal diameter) sizes. The flexible convoluted pipe has an outside diameter of 24mm and 30mm."
Last edited by 19ninety on Sat Sep 20, 2008 9:28 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 5720
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 9:17 pm Post subject: |
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If the pipe will fit inside the smaller conduit then fine.
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Scruff |
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