  
|
www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk Forum Index
-> Plastering Forum |
|
| Author |
Message |
DIYer
Junior Member
Joined: 24 Sep 2007
Posts: 3
|
 Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:45 am Post subject: Plastering trouble - help!! |
  |
|
|
Hi,
in a bit of a mess!
I have removed a wall, added a new stud wall, and filled in an old doorway.
I filled the old doorway with thermalite block, souurounding old wall is breeze block - applied some undercoat plaster - oops! BIG cracks!
Guess I should have used a PVA bonding agent, but I didnt!
So what now? - can i put more plaster on the top (got about 8mm still to go) or how to prepare the cracked plaster and make good?
Please help!
Thats the big question, but now worried about the plasterboard I have on the new wall and ceiling - I have the light gray side facing outwards - is this ok?
I need a surface for painted finish (the wife says!) so assume I need a plaster skim coat..
Do I need to prepare the (gray) plasterboard with a bonding agent, or can I just put scrim tape over the joints and screw holes and then skim?
Lotsa questions, sorry - but would be VERY grateful for any advice
Thanks,
DIYer |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
|
leebwk
Senior Member
Joined: 01 Dec 2006
Posts: 847
Location: Oxford
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 10:43 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
Firstly Hi DIYer,
1. Are the thermalite blocks tied/fixed well ie no movement also you will find that thermalite blocks are ok but they tend to suck in very quickly this is what could be causing it to crack i tend to tell people not to use thermalite when infilling doors and windows (unless the rest of the walls are similar) because they expand and contract quite a lot and no matter how well you fix them you always seem to get cracking around the perimeter i would bring your backing to the required depth and then skim you may have to do some light filling afterwards but as long as the wall is tied in it shouldn't be a problem
also you do not need to pva plaster board just skim
Hope this helps
_________________
What was the best thing before sliced bread? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
steves plastering
Senior Member
Joined: 05 Jun 2007
Posts: 129
Location: Newcastle upon tyne
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 11:21 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
Hi,
Not too sure about your door, sounds like leebwk has the advice for that.
Are your plasterboards showing the writing?? If so they are the wrong way around but im NOT sure if it matters that much. Allways screw / fix the side with the writing on away from you.
Hopefully someone will be able to tell you if it actually has any affect on the performance of the board, if you have fixed them correctly and you have the plain paper side facing you then skim away, make sure to use scrim tape on all your joints though.
Steves
_________________
You'll never know if you don't ask.......or try and then balls it up and learn by the last balls up, but still...best ask! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
DIYer
Junior Member
Joined: 24 Sep 2007
Posts: 3
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 1:00 pm Post subject: thanks guys |
|
|
|
Whew, that's a relief - you have re-assured me - I fixed the plasterboard with the writing on the inside (not visible) - so I DID get that right!
Re the thermalite - the rest of the wall is breeze block (as it is not a load bearing wall) - I keyed between the two with 4" nails driven into the mortar layer, and it seems solid enough.
Thanks for the advice - "onwards and upwards" eh! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Multispacer
BANNED
Joined: 02 Oct 2007
Posts: 55
Location: Spain
|
| Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:36 pm Post subject: oops |
|
|
|
hi diyer
you should have stuck the plasterboard edge onto the thermalite not nailed it as the nails WILL pop eventually with even people walking near the wall moving the floorboards
_________________
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
DIYer
Junior Member
Joined: 24 Sep 2007
Posts: 3
|
| Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:24 pm Post subject: re plastering trouble.. |
|
|
|
fortunately no worries - the only plasterboard I have screwed/nailed is to wooden battens on a new stud-wall and to a new ceiling - the thermalite blocks are filling in an old doorway, and I have not nailed plasterboard to this!
Thanks to all for your help
DIYer |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Selfbuild 007
Junior Member
Joined: 12 Oct 2007
Posts: 21
Location: Weardale, Co.Durham
|
| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 8:50 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
In my experience, there are two ways to put up plasterboard, writing up towards ceiling, scrim tape and skim, or writing down, fill screw holes and joints with sandable filler, sand smooth and direct paint. Just for future reference.
I did the second option on a old house and the result was the same as plastered ceilings.
_________________
Discipline is instilled by Fear!! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
pearce
Member
Joined: 02 Oct 2007
Posts: 59
Location: Blackpool, lancs
|
| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 9:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
| The old wall with doorway blocked, if you could afford to loose the space, between 30-50mm depending on the option, you could dot and dab plasterboard over the entire wall, using the biggest boards you can handle, pref 8x4 or 6x3, 12.5mm thick, lay longside horizontally in a brick pattern, just take a bit of time to ensure that no vertical joints ocur over the doorway space. Hope that makes sense. Use 3-4mm wide screws like you would tile spacers between each board to leave a little gap. This is then filled with dryline adhesive, joint filler or skim depending on your option of finish, this binds the boards together and helps prevent craking. Alternatively you could batten the wall with something like 38x50mm battens (50mm being the side you screw into), again 12.5mm thick board, and again a gap between boards which is filled. Screw the boards in using 25-30 mm drywall screws every 200 mm. I know its extra work and expense but youll be pig sick if cracks shows up afterwards. I know from my own experience. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
-dj-
BANNED
Joined: 17 Jan 2006
Posts: 451
Location: south manchester
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
nearnwales
Junior Member
Joined: 13 May 2006
Posts: 13
|
| Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:55 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
here we go again  |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
nearnwales
Junior Member
Joined: 13 May 2006
Posts: 13
|
| Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:59 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
| Selfbuild 007 wrote: |
In my experience, there are two ways to put up plasterboard, writing up towards ceiling, scrim tape and skim, or writing down, fill screw holes and joints with sandable filler, sand smooth and direct paint. Just for future reference.
I did the second option on a old house and the result was the same as plastered ceilings. |
No NO NO NO NO you writing is always up you shouldnt be able to see the writing be it skimming ,artexing, taping anything. The reason for this is when the papper lip gets wet it can and does life and peel. so always have the paper lip on the inderside ( so you cant see the writing)
P.s the green side  |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
nearnwales
Junior Member
Joined: 13 May 2006
Posts: 13
|
| Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 9:11 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
why would you put plaster boards horizontally ? ever skimmed a wall this way . As you lay on the skim o it picks the scrim up and can be a pig to cover it sometimes.
A better way and the only way as Im concerned is stand the board upright also off the floor use 2 plaster board packs . what way your laying on with the scrim and not against it.
hope that makes sence
And butt the boards up tight no gaps |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
pearce
Member
Joined: 02 Oct 2007
Posts: 59
Location: Blackpool, lancs
|
| Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 10:55 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
| My preference would be horizontal because its a composite background and i would think this gives you a maximum fixing to the breeze block, but at the end of the day... Never had a problem with skimming scrim in any direction unless the background has a highpoint. You can butt join but filling provides a stronger joint (my opinion), you'd still scrim in both cases. You probably wont board now. Another option is to bring the doorway level with one-coat, that has less pottential for cracking, you can skim over the top as well. Dont need a bonding agent for the plasterboard, there's some posts on here about just using joint filler and sanding instead of skimming - might be worth considering. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
stucul
Junior Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2007
Posts: 7
Location: WINSFORD,CHESHIRE
|
| Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:11 pm Post subject: SCREWFIX FORUM |
|
|
|
Hi dj I liked your post onto screwfix forum  you obviously know the crack and not afraid to spell it out,nice one keep it up it keeps em on their toes   |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
rubber_hammer
Senior Member
Joined: 18 Nov 2007
Posts: 141
|
| Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 8:48 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
That's hilarious! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
Search
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
