|
Page 1 of 1
|
[ 7 posts ] |
|
| Author |
Message |
|
matt
|
Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:48 pm |
|
 |
| Newly registered Member |
Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2006 8:30 pm Posts: 28 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
|
We've removed a fireplace and I now need to plaster the bare bricks, both in the fireplace itself and the surrounding fire breast where the surround was.
The fireplace is out of square - the left and right hand sides taper in toward the base therefore I have to build those out with plaster - herein lies my question...
I'm guessing that I'll have to go from somewhere in the region of about 8mm at the base up to a thickness of 20mm (maybe a little more) at the top to make the vertical.
The bricks are hard-as-nails 1930's engineering type (I had to buy an SDS drill because I got bored of waiting for my cordless hammer drill to make holes - if that gives a better indication of the brick type).
I'm quite happy with plastering but cannot decide on the best base coat to use to make up the required thickness. Some have suggested a cement render, although I'm not too sure if that'd be the best way to go. Perhaps Bonding?
Would be grateful for any advice.
Cheers
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
andy-p-
|
Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:19 pm |
|
 |
| pro plasterer |
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 7:01 pm Posts: 398 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
|
Its a bit late to be typing this out mate and a bit late for me!,
but basically you use your straight edge to create the plumb corners. put a spirit level against the s/edge to get it plumb. then use hardwall to create the corner while someone else keeps the s/edge in place, then do it on the other corner.
bonding is not for this sort of job, go for hardwall
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
matt
|
Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 10:46 pm |
|
 |
| Newly registered Member |
Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2006 8:30 pm Posts: 28 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
|
Thanks to you both. Re the "Hardwall"... can I apply a finishing coat directly to Hardwall?
Thanks
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
rubber_hammer
|
Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 10:55 pm |
|
 |
| Senior Member |
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2007 2:33 pm Posts: 141 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
|
Yep! Multi-finish will probably be your best bet.
_________________ I always blame my tools
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
andy-p-
|
Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 8:51 am |
|
 |
| pro plasterer |
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 7:01 pm Posts: 398 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
You can skim with multi the day after or when set (dark) without pva'ing because there is no suction. Just skim away 
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
matt
|
Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 3:02 pm |
|
 |
| Newly registered Member |
Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2006 8:30 pm Posts: 28 Has thanked: 0 times Been thanked: 0 times
|
|
Many thanks. Guess I'm off to Travis Perkins next weekend...
|
|
| Top |
|
 |
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you
register or
log in
|
Page 1 of 1
|
[ 7 posts ] |
|