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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 12:53 pm 
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Hi Guys

Zero budget so looking for some advise on whether I can do the following:

Have removed two sections of tiles from an old shower enclosure (in an alcove) and another section from behind a sink area at the other end of the bathroom.

After having removed the tiles & any remaining adhesive, the plaster left behind was in a bit of a state from the marks left by the chisel (see pics)...

Is it accepatble to use Dry-wall adhesive to cover these sections with Plasterboard (and Aquaboard in the shower area) to give me a nice new surface to either paint/tile.

I have removed any old plaster which was loose/powdery....

Do the old plaster walls need priming first? Will there be a sufficient bond without this...?

Kind regards


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 2:02 pm 
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Hi Alex3874,

Are you just boarding to cover the damaged plaster?
What's your intention after you have boarded, is it your intention to tile the areas?

Cheers,

Davip1


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 2:11 pm 
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davyp1 wrote:
Hi Alex3874,

Are you just boarding to cover the damaged plaster?
What's your intention after you have boarded, is it your intention to tile the areas?

Cheers,

Davip1



Hi Davip1

Yes, mainly just to cover old plaster as I'm not confident enough to skim with a plaster coat myself but also as I'd read that plasterboard can provide a better base to tile onto (for heavier tiles etc). May have got that totally wrong.....

We will def be re-tiling the area in the shower area (on the Aquaboard) but undecided on the area at the other end of the room.....possibly just a splashback etc... Just though plasterboard would give flexibility either way.....

Cheers


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 2:44 pm 
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Alex3874 wrote:
davyp1 wrote:
Hi Alex3874,

Are you just boarding to cover the damaged plaster?
What's your intention after you have boarded, is it your intention to tile the areas?

Cheers,

Davip1



Hi Davip1

Yes, mainly just to cover old plaster as I'm not confident enough to skim with a plaster coat myself but also as I'd read that plasterboard can provide a better base to tile onto (for heavier tiles etc). May have got that totally wrong.....

We will def be re-tiling the area in the shower area (on the Aquaboard) but undecided on the area at the other end of the room.....possibly just a splashback etc... Just though plasterboard would give flexibility either way.....

Cheers




The reason I asked if you were tiling the areas was that I saw an easy repair in both instances with bonding. It would just have meant troweling over with bonding to fill the holes and ruling off with a straight edge & light trowel finish. Bonding with a coat of Unibond (diluted as per the can) is fine for tiling.
But so is Plasterboard or Aquaboard (Coat of Unibond again) suitable for tiling too.
But what you havn't perhaps thought about with these two. is when you stick em on you are left with a 9 or 12.5mm quirk by the edge of the board.
This may work where the board goes into a corner but in others the quirk is a step!
If this is cloaked by something like a shower screen, then ok.

These are just some things you need to think about. In answer to your first question, I would not hesitate to stick either boards onto a plastered wall with Dot n' dab adhesive (read back of the bag before mixing)

Cheers
Davyp1


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 2:53 pm 
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Super, thanks for the info. Just wanted to be sure the bond would be good enough....

Was planning on doing the whole room to avoid the "step" you mention. Will remove the architrave round the door and then re-attach...

I already have 5ltrs of PVA in the garage, would this be a suitable alternative to the Unibond (as a primer) in a 5-1 dilution etc or would it need to be more like 3-1 for this?

Cheers


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 3:58 pm 
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At the architraves, you will find that after fixing your boards, you will have a step at the door-frame the thickess of either a 9mm board or a 12.5mm one + of course a nominal amount for the adhesive,
You can get over this by pinning a lath (same thickess as the 'step' to the door-frame. apain your laths a few mm in from the edge of the frame, makes a small feature & looks better than flush. When you refix the architraves they should also be set in a few mm's from the edge of the lath.

PVA is the same as Unibond. Be sure you read the container for the dilution.

Cheers,
Davyp1


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 4:12 pm 
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Thanks for the tip on the door frame, much appreciated.

On a slightly different subject.....

I am planning on laying some self levelling compound first to sort an uneven floor before I start the plasterboarding...

Do you have to be careful about the SLC touching the old, existing plaster walls (as the old plaster comes down pretty much to the level of the existing concrete floor in places)..... wasn't sure if it might draw the moisture up the wall....?

I was planning on putting some kind of temporary barrier over the door threshold but do I need to run something similar round the edge of the room to prevent this? Or am I being overly cautious?!

Cheers


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 5:30 pm 
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Your floor work could be last, even after your tiling then you don'r sh*t your floor finish up when you drop plaster & tile adhesive all over!
With the floor leveling compound, most of them are latex based and you don't have 'moisture' rising up the wall plaster.
Yes with most building tasks, the logic is to work 'top down'.
Put your longest level resting at the doorway and into the room and estimate what your thickness is going to be (10mm thick in worst place is on average the usual). So if your level was 6mm at the door and level with the highest spot you would put a strip of wood at the door with a finish pencil mark 12mm up. This would give you cover of 6mm at your highest poin!
Hope thats clear.


Davyp1


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 8:44 pm 
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Dot & dab wont hold the boards on that surface with the weight of tiles on them, you will need mechanical fixings.

Best get it plastered in properly.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 9:50 pm 
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cotswold builders wrote:
Dot & dab wont hold the boards on that surface with the weight of tiles on them, you will need mechanical fixings.

Best get it plastered in properly.

:withstupid:


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