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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:55 pm 
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I've removed some cork wall tiles and am now left with the wall fully covered with lightly ridged glue. THe glue is murder to get off and I'll end up damaging the plasterboard underneath if I keep trying to shift it.
So I figured the easiest option is to put a skim over the top but would like some advice about the best way to do it.
I am thinking of putting 2 coats of PVA diluted 1:1 and then using a multi-finish plaster applied while the 2nd PVA coat is still tacky.

Will that do it or is there a better option (other than putting new plasterboard over the top).

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:15 pm 
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i would be tempted to use WBA over that to obsolutely sure, rather than put glue on top of glue.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:41 pm 
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Sorry if this sound a basic question but is WBA waterproof bonding agent? And do you mean use instead of PVA or put on top of the first PVA coat?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:44 pm 
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WBA - wickes bonding agent. probably SBR with sand in or similar.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:46 pm 
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im guessing its not an acrylic adhesive... maybe a tight coat of bonding then 2 coat skim?
or like monkey says - bonding agent and skim with board finish though ive no idea if a bonding agent will react with what is essentially 'evo stick contact adhesive'...
btw, ive laid cork tiles before and youre right, i wouldnt like to get it off either... :lol:
im not even sure if board adhesive would stick to it? at least bonding is designed for little or no suction though it does recommend the use of a bonding agent in the case of 'no' suction...
ive skimmed over polystyrene tile adhesive before today and got away with it but thats different stuff - it sets hard wheras contact adhesive can tend to live up again...
there might be a 'contact adhesive remover' product available?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 6:57 pm 
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good points CW!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 8:00 pm 
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not sure though monkey... is wba water based or what? strange old stuff... id love to know whats in it but it seems a closely guarded secret... all i know is you can wash it off with water while its wet but god help you when its gone off! :?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 2:10 pm 
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think it's made from the same stuff as frosties special crunchy coating :-)

didn't think it was water based though, but could easily be wrong, but like you say, once it' shad it's full 4 hours there aint no budging it.

-- Wed Aug 25, 2010 2:15 pm --

says it's polymer based loaded with aggregate so guess it's not water based, as to what the polymer is though it's anyones guess, a quick look at the definition of polymer on wikipedia made my head hurt and seems that a polymer can be many things derived from many things.

-- Wed Aug 25, 2010 2:22 pm --

try document A29: http://www.hse.gov.uk/asbestos/essentials/index.htm

although i had read recently that artex has been removed from the HSE's list of asbestos hazards because of the tint amount in it, trying to find the article in question on line but proving difficult.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:55 pm 
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I would use a coat of thistle bonding, leave to dry, then skim over.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 7:03 pm 
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I was told that Gypsum Bond-it, and presumably WBA too, is basically PVA with tiny bits of silicon in it. WBA is basically Betaconnect. Don't think you can get that anymore.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 9:40 pm 
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it's more sophisticated than PVA, it's polymer based for a start, like CW says though the exact ingredients are kept secret, definitely different to PVA, doesn't reactivate with water either.

Betacontakt or however it's spekt i believe is WBA, it was made by knauf, if you look at the tub closely you'll see wba is made by knauf, i think feb bluegrit maybe more like PVA than WBA but i've never used it, cheaper but needs 24 hours drying.

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