(See posts yesterday and Tues)

Mostly for the Scruff, but also anyone else who can help, attached pic 1 is the vent fitting on the Cylinder - the pipe going in is standard 22mm and the fitting a normal compression joint; Question is how to attach a Salamander S-Flange, which has a different sized fitting (Referred as 1", though looking larger to the untrained eye), without raising the flange so far up the cylinder that it's pointless. Ideally what I need is an adapter which would screw onto the tank fitting and present a 1" sized thread on the outside to attach the flange.

Pic 2 is the label on the side, which is all the info I have on the cylinder itself:

Gledhill 1370x450 mm Sunspeed 2 Cylinder with Flexlag insulation

Max Working Head 10 M (I have about 2)
Capacity - 186 L
Max length of Immersion element 700mm
Surface area of primary heater - .44 m2
Max working pressure of primary - 3.5 Bar (Solar runs at 2 Bar, boiler is Rayburn 480K)
Surface area of additional heater - illegible 2.8

Install date 2002

Second issue is that, although all the pipework is sound, the shower pump is still not right.

TMV is working and the pump at least activates (although still hunting, which is annoying) as long as the shower head is below the level of the vent. If you raise it to the normal level it ceases to pump completely and a thin dribble is all you get.

So basically I've spent the whole day taking it to bits and putting things back in and I'm still at SQ 1.

I had a couple of thoughts...

Could the hunting be caused by actual thermal damage to the pump, from exposure to unregulated hot over the summer? There are no leaks from the pump, nor obvious damage but...

Have I created an airlock somewhere, which is causing this? Seems unlikely since hot runs OK in the rest of the house and you DO get flow through the pump.

Or have I just set the TMV wrong? (Too low/too high to feed the thermostatic shower, so it's struggling to get the right flow?)

I could simply replace the pump (as I have done before) but was hoping to avoid spending the £120 that would cost - especially as the pump seems to work under some circs.

Pic 3 is the TMV and pump in place. Top of pic is the new 22mm drop from the loft, with 15mm take-off to the TMV and the remaining flow directed to the cold side of the pump (and nothing else). Tank visible to LHS of pic, with a vent from the boiler circuit in the foreground.

All help appreciated as always.

Tim

hi, have not read your other threads but you cant use a S/Y flange on a 22mm connection.

you will need to cut an Essex flange in or go through Immersion hole like this:


made it my self but I believe you can buy one off salamander them self.

on you second issue, putting a E/S/Y flange should help or use my idea of going through the immersion(I name it after my self...the Shenava flange )

also make sure that you have a separate and dedicated cold feed from the tank in the loft to the pump. you should not share the cold feed with the hot water cylinder.

salamander have a fairly good guide to all of this on their website

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Rats

So - no suitable adapter exists for 22mm to S-Flange.

Essex flange is beyond me as DIY, I was hoping to avoid getting a plumber in; and the immersion boss has an immersion element in it...

The cold feed from the loft is dedicated to the Pump and it's TMV; should be ok I think.

Any views out there on the pump itself and the hunting?

In the past I replaced the pump - 1st one we had lasted about 3 years - and the hunting behaviour disappeared for about 18 months. This work is the attempt to stop breaking pumps in future. I will replace the pump if it's definitely U/S, but don't want the expense if it's unnecessary...

Tim

Cut it in the horizontal as close to the first elbow and take a chance

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Thanks Scruff.

In pic 1 the T you can just make out on the horizontal is actually the hot feed to the TMV/Shower already so we've done that.

I think a call to Salamander may be the next port of call - see what they think, but it'll have to wait until I'm at home again (Tues/Weds).

Tim