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 Post subject: Oak Worktop Trimming
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 10:46 am 
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I have just bought a new standalone cooker to replace my old one. The problem is that it is fractionally larger and doesn't fit in the gap the old one sat in, I think there is about 7-10mm of worktop that needs to go (worktop overhangs the units on one side by at least 20mm and the gap between the units is easily big enough).

The worktop I would need to trim is probably 5m long and connected at right angles to another, I have had a quick look at how it is attached and I am not keen to remove it. Given that the edge will be butted up against the cooker and not very visible, I am planning on cutting it in-situ.

My plan, which I would like to double check with the collective knowledge here would be:

Use a router to take off the excess to as close to the wall as I can get (probably about 10cm from the wall). Then use some kind of hand saw to get me the rest of the way. When handsawing probably cut a couple of millimetres on the waste side of the line and then finish it with a sander.

Does that sound reasonable? What else should I be taking into account?

Ideally I would like a guide for the edge of the router to run against but I'm not sure it would be possible to clamp the end closest to the wall? What type of saw would be best here?


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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop Trimming
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 11:07 am 
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blawford wrote:

Ideally I would like a guide for the edge of the router to run against but I'm not sure it would be possible to clamp the end closest to the wall? What type of saw would be best here?

When handsawing probably cut a couple of millimetres on the waste side of the line and then finish it with a sander.


For the guide - any straight piece of batten will do - clamp the front edge to the worktop - for the back edge - screw another batten to the first batten ideally at 90° if this will allow you to reach an edge where it can be clamped, but probably no less than 45° (one screw initially and then a second when positioned to prevent any swivelling).

I'd probably use a tenon saw to finish, (if the depth of the saw is enough) , if it's not, try a Japanese pull saw, I'd cut as close to the line as possible, 2mm of oak is a lot to sand off in that position (imo).

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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop Trimming
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 11:35 am 
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A japanese style handsaw would probably do the whole cut quite easily. Since you are cutting into an opening you can get below it for a good stroke, fix a guide to the top and then take your time making the cut.


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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop Trimming
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 12:27 pm 
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12mm ply as deep as the worktop and about 300mm wide more iff possible
clamp at 2 points along the front edge

other options thinner sheet material with a baton affixed for the router to run against
weigh down as nessisary to stop it lifting in use
you will need a long worktop cutter to get the cutting length rather than any old cutter
you will also need a 1/2" router

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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop Trimming
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 12:45 pm 
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Rorschach wrote:
A japanese style handsaw would probably do the whole cut quite easily. Since you are cutting into an opening you can get below it for a good stroke, fix a guide to the top and then take your time making the cut.

I think I would rather use a power tool for most of the cut, with my inexperience it seems more likely to do a better job.

big-all wrote:
12mm ply as deep as the worktop and about 300mm wide more iff possible
clamp at 2 points along the front edge

other options thinner sheet material with a baton affixed for the router to run against
weigh down as nessisary to stop it lifting in use
you will need a long worktop cutter to get the cutting length rather than any old cutter
you will also need a 1/2" router

Good ideas on how to create a fence, thanks.

I have a 1/2" router, am I looking for a specific type of cutter for it or just any straight cutter that is longer than the depth of the worktop? I will tape the surface to make sure the router doesn't scratch it.

Am I likely to have any issues with the top of the worktop splintering? I am guessing not with it being solid oak but should I be taking any precautions?


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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop Trimming
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 1:56 pm 
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you need a worktop cutter usually around 2" cutting length
just google "worktop cutter" :lol:
how much do you have to remove ?? any more than about 6mm will require multiple passes

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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop Trimming
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 2:07 pm 
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big-all wrote:
you need a worktop cutter usually around 2" cutting length
just google "worktop cutter" :lol:
how much do you have to remove ?? any more than about 6mm will require multiple passes

Not sure at the moment, maybe about 10mm. I would actually prefer to do multiple passes as at least I can see how the first one goes and adjust from there.


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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop Trimming
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 4:08 pm 
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blawford wrote:
Am I likely to have any issues with the top of the worktop splintering? I am guessing not with it being solid oak but should I be taking any precautions?


To be on the safe side, you could knife the cut first. Use a metal straight-edge (ideally) clamp it down and run a sharp Stanley knife along the line of the cut - about half a mm on the good side of the line (not the waste side), when you paper up the arris you'll go back to about there anyway.

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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop Trimming
PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 5:20 pm 
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Also make sure to cut against the direction of cutter is spinning. Could run away from you and make a mess otherwise


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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop Trimming
PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 7:19 pm 
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oz0707 wrote:
Also make sure to cut against the direction of cutter is spinning. Could run away from you and make a mess otherwise

Aye, and not just of the edge. I had to warn the same site chippy twice recently about the dangers of a climb cut. The idiot was using a router making a clib cut whilst pulling the router towards himself - had it "caught" he'd quite probably ended up with a nice set of serrations up his stomach.... Routers need to be treared with respect and used properly which means:

Material to the left
Cutter to the right
Hands where you can use the on-off switch (so router the right way round)
Don't make too deep a pass that you stall the router
and finally
Always push the router away from yourself

It's easy, really

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OK, I'm an "old school" chippie, so please don't ask me to do a bodge job - I didn't bring my horse today and in any case you don't seem to have a hitching rail!


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