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 Post subject: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 5:30 pm 
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Hello all a few questions if I may?

So I am fitting a kitchen for one of my family and there is something I have never worked on!

It is a 40mm thick oak, short stave worktop.

Also the units I have fitted at 600mm from the wall but the worktop is 700mm wide! (so I will need to scribe them, a 2m and a 3m, into the wall by at most 80mm for a 20mm overhang)

It seemed strange to me but I phoned the kitchen company and all their worktops are 700mm and require scribing.

Have done quite a few laminate worktops but never solid oak....is it done just the same?

I also have to cut out for a belfast sink, which I have never done, so do I need to purchase a jig?

A lot of my tools went on vacation one day (and I dont fit a lot of worktops so never replaced the router and jig) so I was thinking of buying a Hitachi M12Ve router and a Trend 700mm Pro Jig.

Would these be good for the job?

Intend to use Trend cutters....this 3 pack https://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-router-cutter-trade-pack-12-7-x-50mm-3-pack/37734 or would you suggest a different blade?

It is an L shape kitchen and so only a single mason mitre with a range between units on one side.
So I intend to first scribe length, then mason, then belfast sink and lastly 90 degree cut to length....would that be correct?

oh and of course slap a bit of oil on the underside and all cuts and the top .... I think :shock:

Why didn't she just by some laminate??

Thanks for any advice


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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 6:23 pm 
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lake wrote:
I also have to cut out for a belfast sink, which I have never done, so do I need to purchase a jig?


Ok so will definitely require a 'jig' to cut the sink!
Just looked! :shock:

Would this be a good one? https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p57884


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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 6:41 pm 
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yes you need to use a jig. you need to have a drip grove undeneath so water falls into the sink. youll likelty want drainer grooves.

you need a decent sander to sand the worktops up. like really well. go through the grits. youll end up with a lovely finish if done properly. you must must must oil the worktops all round. maybe say 2 coats on th underside and back edge and maybe say 4 coats on the front edge and the top.

you need to leave a gap for expansion.

you need to allow for expansion when you screw it down to the units. can get slotted brackets for this. and also drill larger holes and use washers at the front of the units.

no mason mitre join or itll knack the worktop. butt joint only. thats if it turns a corner obviously.

gan canny with them. if ya carefull they will look awesome. if ya rush and dont do it right then you end up with bother



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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 6:42 pm 
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that jig is the one i have. i also have the drainer groove jig too.

its not that hard to do but they are a lot more involved than laminate tops



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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 6:44 pm 
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if you do a mason mitre youll trap the worktop and it wont be able to expand and contract. so deffo deffo avoid that.

and buy rags for the oil. like a 10 kg pack maybe. oil them. let it sit for say half an hour then rub the excess off. then a few hours later another coat. then wipe off the excess. basically follow the insttructions



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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 7:25 pm 
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Thanks fin....brilliant mate

So NO mason mitre. Didn't have any knowledge of that!! :shock: I would have stuffed it up then?

What type of expansion gap? The up stand which is also oak is 18mm thick and 80mm high.

Not sure that I can actually screw it down to the units as there is no where to do so??? Haven't ever fitted the make before and it is the first time I have had to 'scribe' the front of the units to the floor???? There is no leveling at the front of the units and it is on an uneven stone tile floor.
The manufacturer is Neptune!!! I have never heard of them before my sister bought the kitchen.

But it is all fun.... lol

So only butt joints then? Biscuits or not....was going to use unkia bolts or no?

Thanks fin for the help....very good of you


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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 8:05 pm 
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last one i did i used unika tie bolts to bolt it together. i then sanded the joint to get it all nice and flat.

yes deffo would have stuffed it up with a mason mitre. solid oak obv needs to expand and contract across the width of the worktop. but the other one would trap it with the mason mitre. so it locks it together.

expansion is only realistically a few mm gap. at the most 5mm.

so for screwing it down i drill say a 7mm hole on the top rail of the units. 1 each side for say a 600 or a 1000 unit for example. then just your usual screw for attaching the worktops. think a number 4 by 40mm would suffice. but put a penny washer on the screw so that the larger hole allows the screw to move about.

and also the sloted brackets on the back of the unit again this allows the worktop to move. those you put a little washer on the screw and it allows the screw ti move in the slot.

biggest one is that you absolutely 100% need the drip groove. absolutely or the kitchen will be goosed within 6 months. the jig gives full instructions but obv you need suitable machines and cutters.

youll still need the worktop jig to route the tie bolt holes even though no mason mitre.



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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 8:06 pm 
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also a track saw helps for cutting the tops to length. low tooth blade and sand up the edges can get em like glass.



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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 8:14 pm 
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Considering more....think I am trying to 'fight' above my weight on this one!

It's a lot of oak to muck up....and you fin are too far away to come and do it.

But a challenge is always required in life.......so maybe I must 'give it a go'!

I'm too old to start a new career and too ugly to 'hook' a toy girl....also too broken to , well anything lol

so maybe do it well or not, a choice.

Thank you for the knowledge mate I really do appreciate it. Be well my friend.


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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 9:12 pm 
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fin wrote:
also a track saw helps for cutting the tops to length. low tooth blade and sand up the edges can get em like glass.


Do you mean high tooth blade?


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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 11:54 am 
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Just wondering what would people choose to do for the joint if the (solid wood) worktop has a small radius already on the front edge?

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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 3:35 pm 
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Do they ever come with a radius on the edge?


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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 4:21 pm 
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Rorschach wrote:
Do they ever come with a radius on the edge?


Must say that I do not know? Have only ever seen solid wood worktops with square edges! But then I haven't ever fitted any before.

I think the 'blade tooth' was meant to be high but I am going to use my current blade which has seen little work, so cutting on the underside should leave a decent finish.

So I bought the Hitachi and a Unika worktop jig and a Trend belfast sink jig and cutters and guide plates and new clamps and and and and.....but the one which got me was the router bit to cut the 'drip' on the underside.... £26 ffs

Twenty six pounds to cut a 5-6mm 'drip' line.......grumble grumble grumble never going to get that back thats a weeks worth of old speckled hen that is what is the world coming to I cant bloody believe it....anyway onwards....tomorrow I will cut them and see?

Bit concerned about the weight on the small edge after cutting....would hate for it to snap as it will only be around 100mm.

Was thinking of attaching a piece of cls to support it as I move it back into the house?


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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 5:35 pm 
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Stick the cutter up on ebay after you have used it, I bet you will get a few quid for it.



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 Post subject: Re: Oak Worktop??
PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 6:36 pm 
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Rorschach wrote:
Do they ever come with a radius on the edge?
I had one, which was why i was wondering; the radius was about 1/4" on the top edges, enough to look wrong at the join, so faff ensued. But TBH I haven't done enough real-wood tops to know how (un)common this is - it sounds like the OP's is square though, so if a radius is unusual then no worries.

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