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 Post subject: Newel Pegs
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 9:49 pm 
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70mm square pine newel base, but the peg newel I saw on Burbridge's site had a 50mm diameter peg. Will only 10mm each side and some adhesive really take the strain of being shoved?

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 Post subject: Re: Newel Pegs
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 10:16 pm 
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If you glue and cramp two pieces of softwood together with pva glue and allow it to dry fully you will never manage to separate that joint by force, (try driving a chisel into the joint) the timber will split away first, usually close to the glue but not at the joint, the glued joint becomes stronger than the timber alone.

It has to be a reasonable assumption that the same applies to your newel post.

When gluing timber, (and usually anything else) one very important consideration is to always allow the glue to dry without disturbing the piece in any way.

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 Post subject: Re: Newel Pegs
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 11:27 pm 
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Very true for two pieces in good contact. The question I suppose is how good do I think I'll be digging a round hole into the exact centre of the newel base?

I suspect good, but maybe not quite good enough so I was thinking of using a 2 part adhesive like Dry Flex which has some gap filling properties which PVA doesn't to the same extent.

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 Post subject: Re: Newel Pegs
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 12:12 am 
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AlwaysLearning wrote:
The question I suppose is how good do I think I'll be digging a round hole into the exact centre of the newel base?

I suspect good, but maybe not quite good enough so I was thinking of using a 2 part adhesive like Dry Flex which has some gap filling properties which PVA doesn't to the same extent.


Digging is not really desirable, a 50mm auger bit will do the job, or a sharp spade bit.

If in doubt, use a polyurethane (expanding/foaming ) glue.

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 Post subject: Re: Newel Pegs
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 9:06 am 
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AlwaysLearning wrote:
I was thinking of using a 2 part adhesive like Dry Flex which has some gap filling properties which PVA doesn't to the same extent.

A common misconception seems to be that gap filling glues have the same strength as wood. They don't. The strongest joint is always going to be one with a good snug fit, hence AyJay's recommendations. A joint where there is a lot of glue but poor, gappy timber to timber contact will be very weak

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 Post subject: Re: Newel Pegs
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 11:30 am 
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Size of the gap is also an issue with joint strength.

Or I cut a couple of slots in the peg and make some wedge tenons. Or perpendicular offset dowels. Haven't made those in quite some time. :lol:

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