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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2017 11:12 pm 
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Hi I have some electrical knowledge can use multimeter have 13amp socket testers voltage readers and access to megger pat2 etc. I have brother in laws gym buddy who is sparx coming in 3weeks to check over my work and correct anything needed to be before fully connecting us up when he gets back from holiday I just payed him for. I have been recommended to run 10 MM t&e cable from the 32 amp mcb (currently 40 and unused but told to buy 32) which has rcb 80amps 30ma in main consumer unit. The cable is running around 15m maximum and into new Schneider garage cu (with 63amp 30ma rcb with 16amp and 6amp mcb). I'm running 3double sockets on a ring circuit in the garage from the 16amp in new unit and 2 light fittings from the 6amp in new unit. But I'm wondering how the sparx will remove and replace the mcb from main unit as we don't have any main switches to cut power to board only have rcb and the mcb in that main unit. Is that going to cost extra on top of the fee already? Also then recommended to only use 2.5 MM t&e to run from new unit to sockets and 1.5 MM I think was recommended for lighting circuits. Any help advise greatly appreciated.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 5:49 am 
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2.5mm Twin and earth is the "norm" for ring mains
1.5mm Twin and earth is the "norm" for lighting circuits

As for will he charge extra :dunno:

Its not possible for any of us to know what your sparks is or is not going to charge you for.
You could always assume he will charge you, and then you can be happy when he doesn't :wink:

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No such thing as "Thou shalt put this wire here, Thou shalt put that wire there" .............Take a picture BEFORE you do the job.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 11:06 am 
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Thanks for that any info advise on how I could change the breaker myself so all sparx gotta do is check over connect then test? How to turm mains power off?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 4:07 pm 
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pics of units new and existing just for reference.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 6:49 pm 
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YAM MAN wrote:
any info advise on how I could change the breaker myself


If you have to ask that, then I have to say that it is not a job for you. That is why you pay an electrician. He will make it look easy, but its his knowledge you are paying for.

Bear the following in mind;

Electricity has no prejudices, it kills any one.

Just leave it to the electrician.

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Take it easy, a forum is only a collection of opinions. Above, are mine.

Which is correct? Metre or Meter? Click the link. to find out more.

No such thing as "Thou shalt put this wire here, Thou shalt put that wire there" .............Take a picture BEFORE you do the job.

If gloom had a voice, it would be me. :mrgreen:

:idea1: How to post a picture on this forum Click here



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 7:42 pm 
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A couple of points.

You do not normally use a ring when using a 16A MCB, you would normally use a radial (and even then you would normally use a 20A not a 16A MCB). That's probably just your small mistake in the correct terminology as I suspect that you are installing a radial

The MCB supplying the new unit should not be on the 30A RCD side of the house CU, it should be on the 100mA time delayed side using one of the two spare ways (depending on your installation method of the 10mm cable) as two 30mA RCDs in series serves no purpose.

The new CU looks like it is made from plastic. It should be a metalclad CU (depending upon it's method of installation)

The way to cut power to the MCBs is the switch on the CU labelled up MAIN SWITCH in red letters. This removes all power apart from the incoming live and neutral cables from the meter.



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 8:46 pm 
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Thank yous all for help info and advice think I'm leaving it all to the sparx


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 9:53 am 
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YAM MAN wrote:
Hi I have some electrical knowledge can use multimeter have 13amp socket testers voltage readers and access to megger pat2 etc. I have brother in laws gym buddy who is sparx coming in 3weeks to check over my work and correct anything needed to be before fully connecting us up when he gets back from holiday I just payed him for. I have been recommended to run 10 MM t&e cable from the 32 amp mcb (currently 40 and unused but told to buy 32) which has rcb 80amps 30ma in main consumer unit. The cable is running around 15m maximum and into new Schneider garage cu (with 63amp 30ma rcb with 16amp and 6amp mcb).
Why? if it already has a 30 mA at 40 ms RCD why fit a second one?
YAM MAN wrote:
I'm running 3double sockets on a ring circuit in the garage from the 16amp in new unit and 2 light fittings from the 6amp in new unit. But I'm wondering how the sparx will remove and replace the mcb from main unit as we don't have any main switches to cut power to board only have rcb and the mcb in that main unit. Is that going to cost extra on top of the fee already? Also then recommended to only use 2.5 MM t&e to run from new unit to sockets and 1.5 MM I think was recommended for lighting circuits. Any help advise greatly appreciated.

Why use a ring circuit with a 16A MCB?

You are correct the HSE says we should always isolate elsewhere, they have taken electricians to court for not doing that. So if an electrician was to follow the EAW act he would need to switch off at the DNO isolator, if the DNO have failed to fit an isolator to the letter he should ring them and get them to withdraw the fuse and then replace it after. However the consumer unit should have internal covers and guards in place and it is common for electricians to work inside the consumer unit without isolating else where, even if he does need to isolate else where in the main they will break the DNO seal and remove the DNO fuse, if the DNO have not provided an isolator then unless they can see signs that you have tried to steal power normally they will simply replace it, best if you tell them rather than let them find out, so once electrician has finished you ring them and say you have just had an electrician in and you notice the seal is now missing, in the main they just replace it.

Just leave it to the electrician, clearly we can't tell any other electrician to break the rules, but I am sure we all do! As to charges yes if he does it official way the DNO will charge, but really nothing you can do, so why worry.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 6:52 pm 
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Can someone advise me on earth rods etc if i need 1 or any idea exactly how my system is earthed?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 7:44 pm 
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YAM MAN wrote:
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Can someone advise me on earth rods etc if i need 1 or any idea exactly how my system is earthed?


I can't ... however I have to say that is a very tidy install .

get the Electrician that did that back, He obviously cares about his job and will take proper care of you.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 12:34 pm 
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i replaced old cu as was damaged when moved in many years ago just put everything in place in new cu as was in old cu but property had been cut off by eon previous owners didn't pay for 2 years. i did work then decorated etc using generators then had property reconnected to mains power water and gas. never had problem untill 3 months ago full new extension from other property we share with neighbors had electrical fire due to negligence on sparx part. cant name for legal reasons but fair to say we had 4 new sockets put into 18 ft by 19 ft room and only had standard pc and de humidifier working with small led lamp from john lewis and every socket burned melted and started to burn the 2 gaming bean bags that where in there. we got home just in time to see slight smoke from skylights and cut power as soon as we were in. so now apologies if i offend anyone yous have gave great advise thanks but id rather do the work myself now and let someone check it to make 100% sure. never gonna move property here till i go out in my box. {hopefully with some good advise and a bit reading research etc then it wont be soon}


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 3:33 pm 
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Are you saying that you fitted the CU many years ago?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:04 pm 
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Around 7 years at least not sure time seems to fly past now. Is there problem with it?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2017 9:45 am 
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Ok here goes firstly there are too many so called sparks who have no qualifications and are clueless. Electric wiring must be load calculated then all work must be done correctly the amount of incomers I have replaced due to loose wiring and arcing is unbelievable.
To do this correctly you should be splitting your incoming supply using a service block at the minimum a fused connection such as ryefiled board, rcd or fused protection.
This may involve dno to remove supply and re connect as necessary.
You have been advised to use 10mm twin and earth I would have suggested to use 4.0 mm 3 core armour cable this would allow maximum load of 42 amps so even if you added 32a and 6a at later date it would be enough.

What protection have you used when running 10mm ?

A guess of load would be around 6-10 amps unless using machinery ?

The load of lighting will be dependent on type of bulbs used and total load.

Without insulting this so called I suggest you don't pay him any more go to here
http:www.electricalcompetentperson.co.uk/
and find a registered electrician as if you take feed off previous consumer unit you may overload without knowing all appliance in your house I cannot do a load calculation

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2017 9:49 am 
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With regards to earth I can only see one wire, you need to ensure there is bond on mains water and gas one wire can be used as long as wire is not cut you cm strip, pry open and clamp to pipe without cutting thereby using 1 wire.

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