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 Post subject: Need help with settings.
PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 2:09 am 
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Hi. I have a THERMAMAX TIG200P ac/dc inverter tig welder.
Great for stainless steel.
I am trying to broaden my scope of welding abilities to aluminum tig welding.
So many tutorials, so many how to posts.
Someone please try explain to me how i set the machine for aluminum tig welding. Or please help me with that machine's owners manual.
Youtube has many videos, but i want to either download them, or study by reading.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:28 am 
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This is when we need Colin back AKA Retired.

Has he deleted his account or is he still lurking?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:54 am 
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Hitch is good with welding he might pick it up. I will PM him, he might come on.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 1:26 pm 
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Can you do a slightly better picture of the front panel, a bit squarer on, including all the switches and knobs... looks a bit daunting at first, but each switch and knob serves a function. It's not a machine I'm familiar with, but It won't be difficult. Used a fair few different machines over the last 20 years.
Next time I'm at my laptop I'll explain what each one does. A bit long winded to type on a phone! I'll try and get on tonight if possible.

Have you managed to weld any stainless or mild steel yet...successfully?
What consumables do you have in the torch? Tungsten type mainly...and I gather you have pure argon?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 6:07 pm 
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Stainless steel is a breeze. Walking the cup like a second nature. Ive never done aluminum before, but want to broaden my spectrum of abilities. I read about pulse frequency and after flow, but dont know how to set them.

Thermamax used to be US owned and known as Thermadyne. Simmilar to Miller and Lincoln.
Hitch wrote:
Can you do a slightly better picture of the front panel, a bit squarer on, including all the switches and knobs... looks a bit daunting at first, but each switch and knob serves a function. It's not a machine I'm familiar with, but It won't be difficult. Used a fair few different machines over the last 20 years.
Next time I'm at my laptop I'll explain what each one does. A bit long winded to type on a phone! I'll try and get on tonight if possible.

Have you managed to weld any stainless or mild steel yet...successfully?
What consumables do you have in the torch? Tungsten type mainly...and I gather you have pure argon?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 8:33 pm 
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If you can sort a better picture, I'll explain what each one does...and help you get it set for ally.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 10:17 pm 
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Post flow, you should be using a second or two generally, that allows the gas to carry on flowing after you stop the arc. You should keep the torch in position until the weld has cooled to keep the gas coverage.

I gather you have- Upslope, Downslope, Pre gas, Post gas, Start amps, Base Amps, Peak Amps, probably a pulse frequence, and AC balance.. Switches, I guess you have TIG/MMA....2T/4T...Pulse On/Off....maybe a Remote on/off...

For a starter;
You want TIG (you probably know this)
You need to select AC
Select 2T, its easier for beginners.
Turn pulse off for now.

Pre flow and post flow, i'd set at a second or so for the purposes of messing around.

Upslope, that alows the amps to ramp up over a set time. I wouldnt bother with upslope at the moment.

Downslope, a steady end to the arc can help reduce craters and pinholes in the ends of welds... dont worry about that just yet.

Pulse, Use the base amps and peak amps to create a 'hot-cold-hot-cold' cycle. Knob probabaly controls the time at each peak and base amps. the further you turn it up, the more noticeable it will be.
One of the knobs must be the amp control when pulse is off, not sure which from the photo. Set both to 120ish for now, (unless you know which is which...if pulse is off, only one will control it anyway. Depends what you are trying to run a bead on... a bit of 2 or 3mm is ideal.
Frequency, Thats a nice little control to have... You can control how wide or how tight the arc is with that... forfor running practice beads, set that about 90-100. The higher the number, the tighter the arc, so 120 will do net little fillet welds, 80 will do big wide butt welds...
Balance, thats shown loads of different ways on different makes, but aim for somewhere about 35% if its shown like that.
I can see Arc Force on there too, forget that one, irrelevant for TIG.


See how you get on with that. If the ally is a bit slow to melt, up the amps a bit. Youll probably realise if its too hot of cold if youve got the hang of stainless.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 10:31 pm 
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Hi. Thanks. Quite a mouth full.
I will surely give it a shot like you explained, but when im at work again later, ill snap a pic full frontal(pitty full frontal in this case, is not exciting).

I am aware that with tig on stainless, amps are lower than ally. Been welding stainless now for about 7yrs. Way less compared to what you have. Respect.

And i have also been victim to ignorance, due to working man alone on ballustrates.
Was welding and adding acid directly onto hot stainless. Without realising how i was tangled, my wrist brushed against the hot stainless, with acid. 2 days later, i was in hospital, awaiting a skin graft after removing rotten flesh.

Thanks so far for the info. I really appreciate it.
Hitch wrote:
Post flow, you should be using a second or two generally, that allows the gas to carry on flowing after you stop the arc. You should keep the torch in position until the weld has cooled to keep the gas coverage.

I gather you have- Upslope, Downslope, Pre gas, Post gas, Start amps, Base Amps, Peak Amps, probably a pulse frequence, and AC balance.. Switches, I guess you have TIG/MMA....2T/4T...Pulse On/Off....maybe a Remote on/off...

For a starter;
You want TIG (you probably know this)
You need to select AC
Select 2T, its easier for beginners.
Turn pulse off for now.

Pre flow and post flow, i'd set at a second or so for the purposes of messing around.

Upslope, that alows the amps to ramp up over a set time. I wouldnt bother with upslope at the moment.

Downslope, a steady end to the arc can help reduce craters and pinholes in the ends of welds... dont worry about that just yet.

Pulse, Use the base amps and peak amps to create a 'hot-cold-hot-cold' cycle. Knob probabaly controls the time at each peak and base amps. the further you turn it up, the more noticeable it will be.
One of the knobs must be the amp control when pulse is off, not sure which from the photo. Set both to 120ish for now, (unless you know which is which...if pulse is off, only one will control it anyway. Depends what you are trying to run a bead on... a bit of 2 or 3mm is ideal.
Frequency, Thats a nice little control to have... You can control how wide or how tight the arc is with that... forfor running practice beads, set that about 90-100. The higher the number, the tighter the arc, so 120 will do net little fillet welds, 80 will do big wide butt welds...
Balance, thats shown loads of different ways on different makes, but aim for somewhere about 35% if its shown like that.
I can see Arc Force on there too, forget that one, irrelevant for TIG.


See how you get on with that. If the ally is a bit slow to melt, up the amps a bit. Youll probably realise if its too hot of cold if youve got the hang of stainless.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 10:54 pm 
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Sorry, I meant to break that up a bit to make it a little more readable.

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For this message the author Hitch has received gratitude : CELTICPSYCHO
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 12:33 pm 
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CELTICPSYCHO wrote:
Hitch wrote:
Post flow, you should be using a second or two generally, that allows the gas to carry on flowing after you stop the arc. You should keep the torch in position until the weld has cooled to keep the gas coverage.

I gather you have- Upslope, Downslope, Pre gas, Post gas, Start amps, Base Amps, Peak Amps, probably a pulse frequence, and AC balance.. Switches, I guess you have TIG/MMA....2T/4T...Pulse On/Off....maybe a Remote on/off...

For a starter;
You want TIG (you probably know this)
You need to select AC
Select 2T, its easier for beginners.
Turn pulse off for now.

Pre flow and post flow, i'd set at a second or so for the purposes of messing around.

Upslope, that alows the amps to ramp up over a set time. I wouldnt bother with upslope at the moment.

Downslope, a steady end to the arc can help reduce craters and pinholes in the ends of welds... dont worry about that just yet.

Pulse, Use the base amps and peak amps to create a 'hot-cold-hot-cold' cycle. Knob probabaly controls the time at each peak and base amps. the further you turn it up, the more noticeable it will be.
One of the knobs must be the amp control when pulse is off, not sure which from the photo. Set both to 120ish for now, (unless you know which is which...if pulse is off, only one will control it anyway. Depends what you are trying to run a bead on... a bit of 2 or 3mm is ideal.
Frequency, Thats a nice little control to have... You can control how wide or how tight the arc is with that... forfor running practice beads, set that about 90-100. The higher the number, the tighter the arc, so 120 will do net little fillet welds, 80 will do big wide butt welds...
Balance, thats shown loads of different ways on different makes, but aim for somewhere about 35% if its shown like that.
I can see Arc Force on there too, forget that one, irrelevant for TIG.


See how you get on with that. If the ally is a bit slow to melt, up the amps a bit. Youll probably realise if its too hot of cold if youve got the hang of stainless.
Hi Hitch
Hopefully you can see better on this picture.

Ill try again after you managed to explain a little more, if you can and if you dont mind. Seems so far, as if your advice makes most sense.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 8:51 pm 
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Thats much easier to see... pretty much as I described...

So the switches to the right, as I said

AC/DC Switches between AC and DC, AC for ally, DC for virtually anyting else.

2T/4T 2Touch, press and hold the torch button during welding , release to stop...4Touch, Press and release to start, press and release to stop.

MMA/TIG Manual Metal Arc, or more commonly known as 'stick' or 'arc' welding. TIG, Tungsten Inert Gas.

The one with the lines is Pulse on or off, Bottom is off, top is on.


Knobs, from top left to right...

Pre Flow Time- Pre gas, purges the torch with gas prior to starting the arc. I only ever bother with around half a second.

Peak Current- That is your main amperage control for both MMA and TIG I'd imagine. If using pulse, thats the top end of the two currents selected.

Basic Currect- Its the lower amperage setting when using the machine in pulse mode. It alternates between the two settings selected, over a given time (controlled by knob below)

Down Slope, that will allow the amps to dwindle away once you release the torch button, from 0 to 10 seconds. Usually 2 or 3 seconds is plenty enough. With a bit of skill, it can allow it to be used a bit like pulse, pressing the torch on and off to control the weld pool. Not really a beginner thing though.

Arc Force- For MMA mode only, it gives a bit of an extra kick if you get the rod a bit too close, helps prevent sticking the rods to the job. Also good to crank it up a bit if you are trying to weld through lots of paint and rust etc.

Pulse Frequency- Thats how many times the torch swaps betwenn + and - . 0-300 seems like a very wide range... Ordinarily i'd do small AC fillet welds somewhere around 80-90 and butt welds between 100-130. No hard and fast rule for that, lower it is, the 'tighter' the arc, the higher it is the more spread you get. somewhere around 100-120 would be good for playing about.

Pulse Duty- Thats the time between the peak and base currents.

Clean Area Width- Thats whats usually known as AC Balance, that controls the balance of the +/- between the torch and work piece.

Gas After Flow- Usually called Post Gas, allows the shielding gas to continue flowing for the selected time after releasing the torch button. For this to be effective, you need to keep the torch in position until the weld has cooled. A couple of seconds is usually more than adequate.

What tungstens are you using, ideally you'd have a blue, gold, or white.. Personally I prefer the white ones. If you are using reds (like you may well be for stainless) they arn't really the correct thing.

Try the settings i posted previously, and let us know ho you get on.

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