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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 9:28 am 
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hi all

i currently have a Ring doorbell. its connected to a mechanical chime that doesnt work but works fine in itself such as receiving power and alerting us correctly. we bought Ring chimes with it so we've been fine. we now have the Nest doorbell coming soon to swap for the Ring and it got me thinking about the mechanical chime. so a quick background so far...

the chime is about 12-18 months old as is the transformer in the fuse box as i bought them when i bought the Ring. the chime is in great condition as it is out of the way so doesnt get dirty, wet or damaged so i think it would function properly if i wire it properly. my memory is really bad but i remember i had the chime working at first. i cant remember if i somehow stopped it working purposely such as if there was a delay due to the Ring (dont know how i would have done that if thats the case) or it stopped working on its own.

i would like to get to the bottom of it for when the Nest comes as it wont hurt having that extra alert as opposed to just on our phones.

i will attach 2 photos now. the extra little red lead is a bypass cable that Ring supplies and I believe Nest do the same (looks slightly different but i think does the same thing) and again it is still meant to work with this attached. i'm not sure which pair of cables are from the Trans and which are to the doorbell but i can try to find that out if needed. i've also took a close up inside the chime as it doesnt have the 'front, trans, rear' description i read about when googling thisbut instead has 0,1,2,3. if the pictures and this explanation dont help and i need to find something else out please let me know. 0 & 3 dont have one of my wires connected but it looks like they have a thin wire attached from 0 to 1, 1 to 2, 2 to 3.

hopefully i simply have a wire or two misplaced.

thanks guys, marc

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 11:09 am 
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The ring door bell can be AC or DC and often one has to play with the spring to get them to work, likely you have an AC supply to it, around 8 volt. Often they draw more than the transformer rating but since only active when some one is pushing button it does not seem to matter. If spring wrong often only a ding or a dong, it does not go ding dong.

The Nest door bell is likely DC powered, so it is unlikely both can be worked from the same push button, I fitted the type with a cordless phone so you can answer door from arm chair, and it needed a 12 volt DC supply.

We left both push buttons at the door to start with, however this does not work, callers only press one, so unless the intercom one is pressed we could not use the cordless phone to talk to them.

The bell push in theory could either connect to a special answer unit which had a button to auto release door if connected, or to a standard cordless phone, in practice it never worked two way with the BT cordless phones we had, and even if it did, it only rang one.

Idea was mother could find who was at the door without transferring to wheel chair and ask caller to wait if she wanted to see them. However never really worked out that way.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 11:43 am 
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Hi, thanks for the response.

I think i haven't been clear, the Nest will replace the Ring not be in addition to. I just want to get the chime working with the Ring so i know I'm starting from a working solution before swapping for the Nest Hello.

On the Ring EU site (I'm in the UK) it states AC and the same on the Nest site. So hopefully it should work if only i can figure what I've done wrong.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 1:30 pm 
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The red "bypass" lead as you call it looks like a fuse holder, if you have wired it wrong chances are the fuse has blown (as it should) have you opened it to have a look? (They usually push in slightly and twist)

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 2:10 pm 
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I did look and the fuse seemed fine. The wire in there looks intact.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 3:11 pm 
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marc.knuckle wrote:
I did look and the fuse seemed fine. The wire in there looks intact.

Check it for continuity with a meter. Or try a replacement.
You occasionally see fuses that look OK but which aren't.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 5:39 pm 
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Sorted it.

I figured that by connecting it to 1 & 2 that it might just be completing the circuit thus giving power but missing out the chime. I thought if i used the lowest and highest numbers it must then have to use the chime. So i moved the first cable from 1 to 0 and the other from 2 to 3 and it works properly.


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