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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:01 pm 
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My consumer unit is in the bottom part of a tall cupboard in my kitchen. When I get my kitchen remodelled, this cupboard location is the perfect place for a built-in double eye-level oven (cooker outlet is next to it). Is it feasible to put the oven in this location? How far above the CU would the oven have to be? Is there a requirement for a heat shield of some kind? I'm sure my sparky would be able to tell me, but the kitchen designer is just that - a kitchen designer - who didn't seem bothered about the location of the CU. The only other options are to have the over elsewhere and run the cable round the kitchen from the cooker outlet or have my CU moved to the other side of the wall into the utility room (right next to the back door).


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:18 pm 
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If you put the ovens under the CU, then the CU will not be easily accessible, yes you may be able to look at it over the top of the ovens but work on it / switch anything off? :dunno:

Also most electric ovens do not use a great deal of current (unlike an electric shower) so as such they can be plugged in* and so to "run a cable for it" is not as bad as it may sound.

But wait for other opinions.

* I am saying that they can be plugged into a dedicated socket / hard wired to an FCU which would only require a 2.5mm cable.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:27 pm 
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Actually, the CU would be about 10-20cm below the level of the bottom of the double oven, in a separate compartment. Access is not an issue, as nothing else would be stored in this compartment.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:45 pm 
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someone-else wrote:
Also most electric ovens do not use a great deal of current (unlike an electric shower) so as such they can be plugged in* and so to "run a cable for it" is not as bad as it may sound.

* I am saying that they can be plugged into a dedicated socket / hard wired to an FCU which would only require a 2.5mm cable.

Now there's a thing - with a dedicated supply and a damned great switch and warning light I'd always imagined in my ignorance that 'ovens' almost needed their own power station to run successfully.

:thumbright:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 9:33 pm 
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AAA.Handy.Man wrote:
Now there's a thing - with a dedicated supply and a damned great switch and warning light I'd always imagined in my ignorance that 'ovens' almost needed their own power station to run successfully.

:thumbright:


No, you are thinking of cooker and oven.

sroberts30 clearly said double oven, its the "hob" that draws the most current, not the oven.

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No such thing as "Thou shalt put this wire here, Thou shalt put that wire there" .............Take a picture BEFORE you do the job.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 10:46 pm 
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Double ovens require a dedicated supply, usually 30 amps.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 11:08 pm 
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Sorry to not agree Morbius, but all the ovens I have seen plug in to a normal 13A socket.
I had a quick google too, and most (where stated) draw an average of 2KW

If it were an oven with hob I would agree with you.

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Take it easy, a forum is only a collection of opinions. Above, are mine.

Which is correct? Metre or Meter? Click the link. to find out more.

No such thing as "Thou shalt put this wire here, Thou shalt put that wire there" .............Take a picture BEFORE you do the job.

If gloom had a voice, it would be me. :mrgreen:

:idea1: How to post a picture on this forum Click here


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 3:53 am 
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Yet another proof of how, for me at least, some misconceptions +/ misunderstandings picked up early in life can stick with one for a very long time.
In this case, I have been not differentiating between
A Cooker = hob, grill, oven and possibly a crockery heating drawer, and
An oven.

Pheeeew - thanks someone-else

....... :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 7:23 am 
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someone-else wrote:
Sorry to not agree Morbius, but all the ovens I have seen plug in to a normal 13A socket.
I had a quick google too, and most (where stated) draw an average of 2KW

If it were an oven with hob I would agree with you.

You are correct that most single ovens can plug in to a socket, but double ovens require a dedicated supply.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 10:50 am 
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The heath and safety regulations require that you can step back from a distribution unit, however that is often not complied with, I have seen fuse boxes, consumer units, and DNO equipment in some really problematic locations. So in real terms not looking at what regulations say, but at what you can get away with, I am sure having the units under the stairs is not really right, but that is often where they are found.

So what you have to consider is could some one really work on the system once the oven is in place, remember they need to see what they are doing, it's not something you work on by feel. Today consumer units are metal, but not so long ago they were plastic and the connection to the buzz bar was often it seems in error not as positive as it should be, it was all too easy for the terminal to go wrong side of buzz bar so the bar was not clamped, but just pressing against the terminal which it seems has caused fires. Only way to ensure it is correct is to visually inspect, when fitted in restricted space then one can't do a good visual inspection.

I have seen where cupboards have been designed so they can be removed and refitted with ease, so there is no reason why the carcase for the oven should not be removed and refitted every time some one has to work on the consumer unit. So one can't say no it can't go there, it may be that the design is such that it's easy to unclipped and rolled out of the way. I remember looking at a ballroom organ, it was a massive thing, but designed to move out of the way when not in use, pipes did not move but keyboard, peddles and seat all did, in Blackpool it was famous for coming up through the floor, so large items can be designed to move.

It is down to common sense really, when working in a commercial kitchen nearly every appliance was plugged in, 16 and 32 amp sockets often on power trunking run across the ceiling, looked horrid, but worked well, if an oven or hob failed it was unplugged and a replacement plugged in, this is not really what is wanted with domestic. However one could have a 32A socket and have even a full cooker plugged in if that's what is wanted.

This is all part of the kitchen design, and if the kitchen designer can't design the kitchen then not much point having him. With my mothers kitchen the designer actually included a sub consumer unit, the central heating controls, all as part of the design, OK electricians fitted the consumer unit and chippies fitted the cupboards, but the guy who designed it all was reasonable for whole design, working out if a tumble drier vent could be fitted, and if the cooker hood could extract outside, the latter would control if you can use gas hobs etc. It is the designer who knows when louvred panels for ventilation are required and when a simple MDF panel can be used, that is his job. If he can't do it then get some one who can.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 5:05 pm 
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Morbius wrote:
someone-else wrote:
Sorry to not agree Morbius, but all the ovens I have seen plug in to a normal 13A socket.
I had a quick google too, and most (where stated) draw an average of 2KW

If it were an oven with hob I would agree with you.

You are correct that most single ovens can plug in to a socket, but double ovens require a dedicated supply.


Though some single ovens (those with multiple elements/functions) can require a 16A feed. Always best to check the rating of the oven (Kw) to be sure.

Ericmark makes some relevant points regards siting the CU. Ideally needs to be readily accessible and eye level ish or above.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 3:31 pm 
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Thanks for all the feedback everyone. In the meantime, 'er indoors has decided she wants a range cooker that will just go into the space of the old cooker and a drawer unit. She's chosen it, ordered it (I've paid for it), had it delivered and it's just been installed. So the issue about siting the cooker over the consumer unit is no longer an issue! However, she now wants a cupboard where the consumer unit is. Now that's easier! I just have to tell her not to hide the CU behind everything.....


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Is this an electric range or gas or combination of both ?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 8:20 pm 
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someone-else wrote:
Sorry to not agree Morbius, but all the ovens I have seen plug in to a normal 13A socket.
I had a quick google too, and most (where stated) draw an average of 2KW

If it were an oven with hob I would agree with you.


I am now fitting more single ovens these days that specify the use of a switched fused spur and not a plug and socket (they are now closer to the 3kW than the usual 2KW rating that we are used to). I am also seeing far more 16A single ovens than I ever used to see.



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 7:18 am 
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The cupboard over the consumer unit should be metal unless the consumer unit is metal already, it will need to be vented and should not have any flammable things inside. The idea of putting a louvred doored cupboard over the consumer unit to hid it I like but one problem is how to attach to the wall without hitting any cables.

Remember consumer unit produce heat so should be in free air. However because of consumer unit fires we are now told one way to contain the fire is to fit a metal cupboard over the consumer unit, not really sure a metal cupboard is really any nicer to look at than the consumer unit?


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