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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 3:33 pm 
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My rising main stop tap leaks at the gland. The screw holding the handle on is seized solid. I can take off the valve. Buying a new tap and only using the valve seems the simplest solution. The house was built in 1980 , will a new valve fit the existing housing please. I don’t want to risk taking off the complete tap. Thanks , Mike


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 4:21 pm 
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Radnorboy wrote:
My rising main stop tap leaks at the gland. The screw holding the handle on is seized solid. I can take off the valve. Buying a new tap and only using the valve seems the simplest solution. The house was built in 1980 , will a new valve fit the existing housing please. I don’t want to risk taking off the complete tap. Thanks , Mike
Hi Mike, a picture would definitely help in this case. What's the diameter of the pipes either side of the stop clock?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 10:33 am 
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You can usually fix these without taking of the handle:

1. Open valve fully. Clean / polish spindle with green washing up pad type fine abrasive. (Gets rid of limescale, corrosion and makes the spindle smooth)
2. Close valve fully.
3. Undo gland nut and pull out onto spindle.
4. Make "string" of PTFE tape by twisting a length (start at around 4" / 100mm) tightly.
5. Wrap PTFE string around spindle in the direction the gland nut will tighten.
6. Push down and re-tighten gland nut.
7. If not sealed, repeat 3. to 6. above with increasing lengths of PTFE.



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 3:22 pm 
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Thanks for your replies, I did what you suggested andy some time ago and want to do a more permanent job now. I have found that my main stopcock at the end of the drive doesn't shut off so will wait for SWWater to fix that.
P.s I would like to 'thank you' but can't find how to do it.



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 3:38 pm 
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The "Thanks" button is (or should be) in the right hand group of buttons at the bottom of each post.



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 10:15 am 
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Otherwise freeze pipe and replace.

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