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[Pigglet]

I've had a search round the site and whilst there seems to be plenty of info about laying Oak on Concrete, there doesn't seem to be much about Oak on chipboard.
I've got some nice 22mm thick 170mm t&g boards I want to lay downstairs. I've ripped up the laminate and carpet and it's chipboard underneath. It all seems to be in good order as the house is only 10 years old. Whats the best method for laying the Oak?
I gather a floating method is no good? I had intended to secret nail it to the chipboard (I'm pretty sure of where pipes and cables run and will do a survey to confirm) leaving an expansion gap behind skirting and at doors.
Is this the best method and if so is underlay required? Some people think yes and others no??? Or am I way of the mark and is adhesive the best way?
Are there any pitfalls associated with either?
All info greatly appreciated

[chippymike]

are we talking about soild oak tng? if so as long you leave an expansion gapr under skirtting your good to go. make sure the chipbord flooring is solid and does not squeak. i personally have used a flooring nailer in the past you can hire these from most hire places.

[thescruff]

This floor was secret nailed.

5 boards and a spacer

[carhartt kid]

I hope you didn't have to nail all that with your whacking stick scruff!!!

That brings tears to my eyes! I bet youre hands where calloused to buggeree! I'd a rented a nailer from HSS or sumtin!

[Pigglet]

Thanks for the replies guy's. Yeah it's solid Oak. Scruff, is it OK to lay solid oak on top of underfloor heating then? That looks a big area!
In my application should I be using an underlay or just lay it straight onto the chipboard?
Ta
Pigglet

[thescruff]

I did the underfloor heating carhartt, but yes they used the whacking stick

Pigglet, we laid an vapor barrier over the underfloor pipes, then raised the floor temperature to 16c and increased it 1c a week to 21c.

In your case, assuming the existing floor is level/flat I would have thought a building paper is all it would need, but do wait for the chippies to get up

[Pigglet]

Phew, don't know why I was getting so worried, it's pretty easy really
I'll detail what I did as a guide for anyone else who's in the same boat as I was. This is how I did it. I'm just a guy with a few tools who's had a go not a pro so this is not the definitive method, it's just to give you an idea it's perfectly possible for a diyer.

First, obviousley rip off all the skirting and old flooring. For the skirting I tried a moulding/pry bar but it was too narrow and put holes in the plaster when I tried to lever it off. I found a wide bolster chisel worked best.

Next take off the doors in the room your laying and cut all the architrave and door casings to allow the flooing to slide under so there are no untidy edges visible. Get a small off-cut of your soon to be laid floor, offer it up to the architrave then lay your pullsaw on top of it and cut the frame/trim to suit.
The photo is for illustration purposes, obviousley the old flooring need to be removed.


Now vacuum the room!

Right, time to mark out. I marked a datum line in the middle of the floor and worked from/to that as opposed to assuming the walls a were square and working from them.
Measure the width of the room (minus 20 mm to give you a 10 mm expansion gap at each wall) and divide it by the width of your floor boards. Now you know how many boards you'll be laying across the room. If it goes exactly your lucky, if not and it's say 14.75 then you have 2 options. Start with a full board at one side and end up with a 3/4 width board at the other or divide that 3/4 width board by 2 and have the same width part board at both sides.

Right, now measure the room at both ends. Is it square? Mine was pretty good.

Now ignoring the chipboard joins I used a laser to give me a datum. Initially I did this by eye pointing the laser down the length of the room and tweaking it untill it looked square by eye. It doesn't have to be dead centre. I then measured from the laser to both walls at the top and bottom of the room . I was surprised how accurate I was going by eye, I only had to move it a fraction to get it bang on square so that the right hand side top and bottom measurements matched as did the left hand side. Obiousley if you've not got the laser in the centre of the room you won't get 4 measurements the same, you'll get 2 measurements the same on each side IYKWIM. If the room's not square then split the difference on each side.
The beauty of using a laser is that you can adjust the line without getting chalk or pencil everywhere. I used a £15 job from screwfix, it's the red tape measure shaped thing in my heap of tools.
Once your happy with your datum mark on the laser line in pencil at the top and bottom of the room. Next use a chalk line to mark the datum.

Now you're off. Put your first board down against the wall leaving a 10mm gap and measure to the datum. (working left to righ as you look down the room with the groove to the wall and the tongue to the centre of the room) Is it square to the datum? If not rip it down to suit untill it is. Is it square now? Yes? OK, take a deep breath, keep it still and nail it down. Measure again. Still square? Yes? Phew, your lauging teacakes. Do the same all along the L/H wall untill you're one board off the wall all the way down. as you lay the ends of the boards together put a bead of PVA along the tongue of the fixed boards before you tap the next board up to it. Wipe the excess off with a damp cloth. I used a portanailer to fasten the boards down but like a muppet i didn't get the face nailing kit. I thought I'd drill screw then plug the boards which I could'nt get with the nailer. Not the neatest or easiest idea in my room as I found out so I bought a paslode as I couldn't get hold of a face nailer locally.
Now just start at the top and work your way down the room one board at a time. Some of the boards may be slightly wider or narrower than others (1mm or so) which will be evident looking at the end joint. To counter this make sure that on the next row you lay a long board beside the two different width boards with the join in the middle of the long board. This will help stop you ending up with stepped out of tru effect. Keep measuring up to the datum to check you're square.


A few tips
Use an off cut as a drift to tap the boards together, it will stop you bruising the tongue.

Ratchet clamps (like ratchet straps) are handy for pulling slightly bowed boards up tight to the one you laying against.

When you've laid yoir first row of boards, pack out the gap between the wall and the board to stop it moving as you tap the next boards up to it. I used plastic shims from screwfix (the horse shoe shaped things).

Offer up each board in the row (top to bottom) and check they fit together (as a complete row) before you nail them down.

I didn't use building paper as a chippy I spoke too and the builders merchants said on a newish dry house there is no need. If you do need it organise it in advance as nowhere near me stocked it.

Take your time and measure everything twice.

Stop when you get 2 boards away from a door frame or architrave you might have to lay 2 boards together to get them in. offer them up and make sure it fits ok before you nail it down.

Bish bash bosh


Tools I used


Remember the above is just a rough guide. Please add your tips and suggestions to help anyone else who wants to have a go:occasion5:

[Pigglet]

Oh Yeah, I got a few bit's including the bear saw from
http://www.bona1stopshop.co.uk/index.html
I've no connection with them but they have some good stuff and were very helpfull.
The Vaughan superbar I got is way better than the cheaper draper I got first. The draper wouldn't grip the brad heads that were left after the shirting was removed but the vaughan bar got them all.

[Tryanything]

Nice job, well done, should have put it in the Show case
Nice bit of rustic oak looks so much better than prime

[Pigglet]

[ultimatehandyman]

Well done, that looks really well