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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2019 11:46 pm 
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I own a Glasgow tenement flat, built around 1900, exterior walls light sandstone. I recently noticed one of the corners of a kitchen cabinet had loosened itself from the wall so I took everything down to inspect what was holding it. (It is an Ikea Varde glass-door cabinet, like this one: https://www.ikeaddict.com/ikeapedia/en/Product/60158399-2/us-en/varde-glass-door-wall-cabinet-birch/Entry/)

I soon realised that the previous hack "joiners" had installed the unit directly into plasterboard, and when that evidently began to fail, drilled a few 8cm screws directly through the 3mm back panel into the wall. They also squirted a mess of glue along the back of the unit in the hope it would stick to the wall. It is a miracle the entire thing hadn't collapsed until now.

So I am trying to re-do the installation properly, and am having trouble figuring out the best way to do it. This is on an exterior-facing wall, so I assume there is load-bearing brickwork behind it. I've drilled a couple of inspection holes in the wall and it looks like there is 3 cm of plasterboard (piggybacked sheets I assume), then 4-5 cm of empty space before I hit any masonry. I'm not sure if the empty space is for insulation/ventilation, or a disused chimney shaft but I don't know of any fixings or shield/sleeve anchors that would withstand 8 cm cantilevered downward force. (I've attached a diagram here, as I see it).

So I guess my only recourse is to cut a hole in the wall and fix battens to the brick, which I would rather avoid. Or, I could try my luck with cabinet rails on the plasterboard, but I'm hesitant to trust that with 200 kg of cabinet and crockery.

Any ideas? They would be much appreciated. Thanks.
David


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 7:35 am 
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Corefix or similar type fixings are designed for just this job.



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 8:12 am 
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Thanks for the reply. I didn't realise there were fixings that handled that cavity length. Much appreciated.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 9:31 am 
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https://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/collections/gripit-corefix-1



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 10:16 am 
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From what I've found, these fixings (Corefix Plus 30) will manage up to 30mm. It looks like I have 50mm to bridge.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 11:31 am 
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check out Geefix or SnapTogglers (videos on utube)



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 10:52 am 
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Thanks for all the replies. I'm very hesitant to rely on plasterboard alone to take the weight of the cabinet. Fully loaded, it could be over 200 kg. Meanwhile, I've been trying to figure out what lies behind the plasterboard to see if I can drill into anything more solid. When I push a wire into the wall cavity I don't seem to hit anything truly solid, just something that feels like it still has some give, like poking into gravel or rubble. Lath and plaster perhaps? On an exterior facing wall? If only I had a Borescope.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 6:12 pm 
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Since the cabinet covers quite a big area of the wall, cut yourself an inspection hole.



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2019 11:26 am 
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Thanks, Rorschach, I'll do that. I was avoiding cutting into it in the off-chance that I would be digging into plaster and not plasterboard, and then require the assistance of a specialist to repair my damage, But it seems hollow enough. I could be delicate enough with an oscillating multitool.

One thing I've noticed though: From the floor up to about 1 metre up, the wall seems solid plaster. It then bows ever so slightly outward (a couple mm maybe) and then continues hollow-sounding all the way up to the ceiling. Is it possible the plaster was removed and replaced with pboard halfway up? (I notice this sort of thing all along the exterior-facing walls of the flat, continuing into the adjacent living room, where all the walls are plasterboard and set at least 8-10 (maybe more) inches back from the exterior wall. I'm wondering if this is standard construction in these types of flats, where a large air pocket is left in between the stone and the interior wall, or if this is particular to this building?

Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 10:44 am 
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I think I may have figured it out.

Shutters.

The cavity wall is there for the original 1890's window shutters, which used to be folded behind the wall on a rail when not in use. I think the Ikea kitchen cabinet had been screwed through the plaster into what remains of the shutters behind the wall, which have probably mostly disintegrated after decades sealed behind the wall.

The wall seems hollow, so I'm assuming timber stud. Which means I would need to construct horizontal battens between the studs in order to mount anything. It would also require three coats of plaster to repair, so I would need to bring in an expert plasterer.

Thanks for all your replies.


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