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www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk Forum Index -> Plumbing Forum
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samantha
Junior Member
Joined: 23 Sep 2008
Posts: 38
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 Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:29 pm Post subject: JUST CHANGED V4073A VALVE BUT STILL NO CH. HELP PLEASE! |
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| Hi, heating was coming on only on the 1st and 2nd programmed times but would not come on the 3rd programmed time. Did this for about a week and then heating would not come on at all (Through everything, hotwater has been going on and off fine). Just had 3 port diverter valve replace... heating came on straight away after switching everything back on, i then turned the thermostat down in the hall and as you would expect, turned off. Now i'm trying to get more heat, heating will not come back on again. Again, HW working perfectly fine. Any ideas?? |
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samantha
Junior Member
Joined: 23 Sep 2008
Posts: 38
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| Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:30 pm Post subject: |
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| The valve is a honeywell V4073a !!! opps.... |
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 5665
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 10:09 pm Post subject: |
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 samantha 
How good are you with a multimeter 
The wires from the MV.
240v power on the white for hot water and heating.
240v power on the white and grey for heating only.
Try turning hot water and heating on, then turning the hot water off, does the heating stay on.
It sounds to me as though you have a switching problem, maybe the room stat or programmer, and easy to test with a meter.
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Scruff |
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samantha
Junior Member
Joined: 23 Sep 2008
Posts: 38
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| Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 10:32 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Scruff ,
I am getting a multimeter on fri morning and will attempt to test!!! Do the tests you have noted test whether the valve is working? If its not the valve, how do i test the room stat & programmer???? The programmer is a oneywell st6100c and everything is wired into a honeywell sundial biggish junction box thing.
If i have the hot water and heating on together and turn off the hw the heating goes off too. The only way to keep heating on now is to move lever on the valve over the manual myself.
Thanks for helping!! |
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 5665
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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I kind of wish you hadn't said Samantha.
The st6100c is a single channel time clock, and Not a programmer, the only way can control heating and hot water separately is through the room or cylinder stat.
Has any work been done, e.g. decorating etc whereas the room stat was removed, check all the wires are in place.
And please isolate the power before you start
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Scruff |
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samantha
Junior Member
Joined: 23 Sep 2008
Posts: 38
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| Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 10:59 pm Post subject: |
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| Hi, my mistake. Its a st6400c... does that change things??? (All these numbers have drove me crazy, think!) And the room stat is a wireless system.... Drayton RF1 system. Any clearer?? Thanks again!! |
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 5665
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 11:12 pm Post subject: |
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Have you got a low battery flashing on the stat.
Need to do some research the RF 2 & 3 is ok but don't know the RF1.
Give me 10 mins
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Scruff |
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 5665
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 11:39 pm Post subject: |
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Ok research done, the Rf1 is a digital sat, whereas the 2&3 are programmable.
Read the following and see if anything comes to mind, do check and change the 4 x batteries for you play with too much.
Green LED
The green LED will be on when there is a demand for heating, and off when
there is no demand.
Red LED
The red LED will flash for 7 seconds, approximately every 5 minutes. This
denotes that a radio signal is being received from the Digistat RF unit.
Red LED continually flashing
This denotes that the batteries in the Digistat RF unit are approaching the end of
their life (see ‘battery replacement’).
Red LED continually on
This denotes that the SCR has been unable to receive a radio signal from the
Digistat RF unit. This may be caused by the batteries being dead (see ‘battery
replacement’) or some temporary interference with the radio signal.
To resend and test the signal, go to the Digistat RF unit, open both battery
drawers and wait for the display to fade, close the right hand drawer, followed
by the left and then reset RF to your desired temperature. If the radio signal has
been successfully transmitted and received, the red LED will flash for 7 seconds
then go off.
If the red LED stays on, there may be some other fault that will require the
attention of a heating engineer/electrician.
MANUAL OVERRIDE
The heating can be manually switched on and off by using the ‘OVERRIDE’
button on the SCR in a fault situation, even though the red LED will stay on until
a satisfactory signal is reinstated.
Once the SCR receives a satisfactory signal again, it will automatically reset
itself for normal operation.
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Scruff |
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 5665
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 11:42 pm Post subject: |
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Can you give me the make and model of the boiler as well please, I'm interested how they have connected the bits together 
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Scruff |
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samantha
Junior Member
Joined: 23 Sep 2008
Posts: 38
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| Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 10:31 am Post subject: |
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Hi Scruff, Thanks again!!... Right.... the RF! seems to be working fine. Green light is on all the time and the red light flashes for a couple of seconds or so every 4 or 5 mins which i believe indicates signal is being received. There is no battery symbol on the RFI digital stat to indicate batteries need replacing either. The boiler is a Potterton Suprima 60, which has in fact had a new PCB recently as these were notoroius for lock out. The boiler does fire up fine though when HW is being called for. From what i've researched its a Y plan system all linked up to a box called honeywell sundial??? Does that makes sense? The box is in the cupboard with the tank, pump etc. When you take off the cover,it has various connection terminals inside.... 1 set of connecting blocks say room stat...1 says valve..... etc etc. Looks as if everything is connected here. One for boiler too if memory serves me right. Currently at work you see so cannot look just now. Any clearer?????  |
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 5665
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 9:12 pm Post subject: |
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I think you need to establish whether there is 240v power on the white wire,(motorized valve) (heating and hot water) and the white and grey wire Motorized valve) (heating only)
If not check for power on terminal 4 (programmer) when the htg is calling
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Scruff |
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samantha
Junior Member
Joined: 23 Sep 2008
Posts: 38
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| Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 9:19 pm Post subject: |
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Great , thats what i will do tomorrow... multimeter should arrive in post (fingers crossed!) .... ironically heating came on fine for all three set times today...... only problem being that when it came on for the 3rd setting (early this evening setting) after it met the temperature on the RF1 it switched off which was fine. An hour or so later though, it got chilly so i increased the heating on the RF1 Stat as the temp wasnt calling and once again, dead as a door nail !!!....No heat!  Will test volts once i get the meter and let you know what i find out. Thanks so much for your help so far. Samantha |
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thescruff
Senior Member
Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 5665
Location: Bath
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| Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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Just be very careful when working with live sparky bits.
It looks like either the stat or prog is failing.
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Scruff |
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samantha
Junior Member
Joined: 23 Sep 2008
Posts: 38
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| Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 9:34 pm Post subject: |
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| i shall be very careful.......thanks |
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samantha
Junior Member
Joined: 23 Sep 2008
Posts: 38
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| Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 6:58 am Post subject: |
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Hi Scruff.... my multimeter has finally arrived!!!!!!!!!!!!  Just want to clarify before i get going. Firstly i'm testing if the valve is working, is that right? So first i have to make sure heating only is set on the programmer and then test i have 240v on both the white wire and the grey wires, whilst other prob is connected to the nuetral wire on the mains connector block in the wiring centre? I then test to see if i have hot water and heating, so need to switch both hw&ch on, on the programmer. I should then have 240v on the white wire but NOT 240v on the grey wire this time? (again whilst other probe remains on neutral connection on the mains in terminal block on the sundial wiring centre). Have i got it right?????? Cheers again.......... nearly there hopefuly! |
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