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JUST CHANGED V4073A VALVE BUT STILL NO CH. HELP PLEASE!
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samantha
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Joined: 23 Sep 2008
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 11:30 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Hi Scruff. Since speaking to you last i think i've finally got there............ only with your expert advise & knowledge of course! I took the cover off the SCR receiver to photograph for you so had to turn off the mains. Took photo and put cover back and of course then switched the mains back on. Had to reset SCR to ensure that it was receiving signal from RF1 Stat and there started the problems!! I was getting really weird things happening with that Digital stat. Display fading off for no reason and then coming back on randomly. Sometimes no display showing at all, dispite another lot of new batteries! Then the display appearing again randomly. Low battery indicator flashing despite brand new batteries. Just really strange behaviour, all in all.
So, i went back to your previous bit of advise and linked wires 1 & 3 on the stat block in the wiring centre and so far, so good, the central heating has been coming on and off a treat according to the times set on the programmer.
I dare say i will have to buy a replacement stat and receiver as a set but if i can buy seperately, is it the digital stat alone i need to buy given that its working (touch wood) with wires 1 & 3 linked? Or am i better off just buying both brand new?
Oh and just to also say, there is a main earth to the wiring centre that is connected -its prob obscured in the photo i posted. I double checked to make sure and its def connected.
And when you say they have used and earth for the HW on for the programmer and that it should be sleeved, can you tell me what that means, so i can do that to too?
YOU HAVE BEEN AMAZING AND VERY HELPFUL! THANK YOU SO SO MUCH !!!! Laughing
Samantha
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thescruff
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Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 5665
Location: Bath

PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 12:17 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

In the control center the earth wire for the cyl and programmer both appear to be signal wires, red insulation tape would id them.

Back to the original problem.

I still think the problem is with the stat/batteries.

Linking 1-3 has cut the stat out of the system.

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Steve the Gas
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Joined: 30 May 2008
Posts: 794
Location: Notts/Derbys

PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 6:05 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

I know you won't believe this John but my first thought was batteries Embarassed

But good on yer Thumbright

Result & nice to get feedback Smile
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samantha
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Joined: 23 Sep 2008
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 12:29 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

For anyone who may have looked in on this, i bought a replacement wireless stat and receiver -an Rf601, which is the upgrade to the original RF1 that i had, and the CH & HW have worked ever since (touch wood! Wink ).... So Scruff was really amazing with his incredible knowledge and willingness to help!!! THANK YOU!
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thescruff
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 1:32 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

It's what we and the forum is all about Samantha Thumbright and very satisfying when posters solve the problem.
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Lemon
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Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Posts: 5
Location: Oldham

PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:54 pm    Post subject: Drayton Digistat SCR Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

We have this device, badged as British Gas. Only a month old, and it is very erratic. Very reluctant to start in the mornings, especially if it is cold!

Can anyone tell me what the "Override" button is supposed to do, please? Any point in pressing it?

I am due to have the 5th visit from British Gas tomorrow to work out why it only starts sometimes. I find that if I leave the cupboard door wide open it usually starts up! The transmitter is about 4 feet away form the SCR, but the other side of a hollow door. We are now on the second transmitter. When the engineer is here, it works a treat. He goes away, and then the problems start! He is baffled.
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thescruff
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Location: Bath

PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 10:06 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

The over ride switches it on or off.

Is there any metal close to the receiver. I think he should change the receiver if anything, or preferably both.

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Lemon
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Joined: 30 Nov 2008
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Location: Oldham

PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 10:28 pm    Post subject: Digistat scr Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

The receiver is next to a metal thing which we put the iron into, it hangs on the wall. Then it is about 14 inches away from the boiler cabinet. The odd thing is that it works perfectly when he is here, handshakes all round , but once he has gone, then it decides to play up. He thinks the transmitter may be too near, is that possible? It is about 4 fet from the trans to the rec, and through a hollow door.
Thanks
Lemon
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thescruff
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 11:09 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Can't see being too near would have an affect

It's quite easy to use a multimeter in the wiring center to check it it switches or not, the only problem is being there when it doesn't

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Hinton Heating
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Joined: 16 Jan 2006
Posts: 4296
Location: Bournemouth

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 12:32 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

the instructions do say, that when commissioning to hold the transmitter no closer than 1m to the receiver.

I doubt the ironing board thing helps, the only time i had an erratic one from new, was because of the boiler pipes between the transmitter & receiver.

Is there any metal in the direct line between transmitter & receiver?

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thescruff
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 1:08 am    Post subject: Re: Digistat scr Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Lemon wrote:
The receiver is next to a metal thing which we put the iron into, it hangs on the wall. Then it is about 14 inches away from the boiler cabinet. The odd thing is that it works perfectly when he is here, handshakes all round , but once he has gone, then it decides to play up. He thinks the transmitter may be too near, is that possible? It is about 4 fet from the trans to the rec, and through a hollow door.
Thanks
Lemon

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Hinton Heating
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Joined: 16 Jan 2006
Posts: 4296
Location: Bournemouth

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 1:12 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

thescruff wrote:
The over ride switches it on or off.



only when the unit is in a fault mode, as shown by the red LED being permantly on

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thescruff
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 1:16 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Hinton Heating wrote:
thescruff wrote:
The over ride switches it on or off.



only when the unit is in a fault mode, as shown by the red LED being permantly on


Is that right, something else I've learn't today.

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Hinton Heating
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Joined: 16 Jan 2006
Posts: 4296
Location: Bournemouth

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 1:21 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

pretty sure of it!


http://www.ealingheating.com/getimage.php?id=8&type=3&format=1

MANUAL OVERRIDE
The heating can be manually switched on and off by using the ‘OVERRIDE’
button on the SCR in a fault situation, even though the red LED will stay on until
a satisfactory signal is reinstated.

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Lemon
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Joined: 30 Nov 2008
Posts: 5
Location: Oldham

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 8:53 am    Post subject: Digistat SCR Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Thanks for your interest. Did not start this morning. Very cold and VERY cross wife. She says she stood there and glared at it, no doubt spoke a few unkind words, then went away and turned the hall light on. At that point, it decided to lurch into life and away it went! Almost an hour later than it should have done. So, could it be that our lights affect it? They are the long-life low wattage curly ones. That would explain why the system usually did not start in the mornings as the lights would be off, but it was OK in the afternoons when the lights are normally on! And the system was set up when the lights were on.
There are three small coat hooks in the direct line of fire, on the back of the (hollow) door. They are plastic, but the screws are about an inch long I guess.
The issue for me is that it is very erratic in starting, and I am looking for a pattern. The usual pattern is that it starts OK in the afternoons, but not very often in the cold mornings.
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