Hi,

I am hoping for some advice from you good fellows!

I haven't been able to add a picture as I can't reduce the picture pixel size for it to be accepted for this Forum.

It will probably be helpful if I add that I do not have a blow torch!

I am wanting to replace my upstairs toilet. Ideally I would like to connect to the right of the stop cock which is above the floor boards in the toilet room. The present pipework is 3/4" imperial. This pipework then continues onto the cistern. Am I correct in thinking this is lead piping?

One concern I have is if I put too much pressure on the attempt to unscrew the piece of pipe to the right of the stop cock a split might occur in another joint along the pipework, i.e. to the left of the stop cock, causing a leak. Also, if I do manage to free the pipe the attempt may wreck the thread, meaning I cannot then screw in a 3/4" x 15mm reducer part. A quick aside, with the pipe I need to unscrew, is that anti-clockwise?

Now, if I wreck the thread or cannot unscrew the pipe, I can still feed cold to the new toilet by coming off a metric cold pipe next door in the bathroom. However that still will leave the open imperial pipe, after a failed attempt.
I have turned off the stop cock by hand and with some extra effort with an adjustable spanner. But, I am still getting the occasional drip in the cistern every half hour.
A question I have is: can I keep tightening the stop cock with the spanner, or will this damage the valve, thus producing a greater amount of water coming through?
If I just decide to feed the toilet from the metric pipe next door in the bathroom, I still have to cut the 3/4" imperial pipe after or at the stop cock as I want to remove the old piping that continues onto the cistern. Once cut at or near the stop cock I can then box in the remaining pipework.

Back to the issue of the open 3/4" pipework, I'd be grateful if someone has any advice on how to fill the open 3/4" pipework, bearing in mind there is a once every half hour drip coming from the stop cock, meaning, in time the pipe it will become full with water from the slightly faulty stop cock.
Will Boss compound with hemp create a secure fill?

Another question I need advice on is: is there a 3/4" x 15mm compression joint out there that has a nut and olive on the imperial side. I can't find one! For then I can just cut the 3/4" pipe and put this 3/4" x 15mm compression joint on.

I have read using a 3/4" olive and loads of ptfe tape can work? What do people think of that?

Also, could someone let me know what is the internal diametre of a 3/4" pipe?

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

Thank you

Paul

Bit confused with your description so pics would help a lot.
don't try and tighten the stop cock any further, it is obviously letting by and needs it's washer changed.
There are a number of 15mm compression to 3/4" male and female fittings. You cannot just cut the pipe and bung it. It won't work.
If the pipe is lead then you will need a lead-loc coupling, but from your description it is probably mild steel and therefore you will need to go back to a threaded joint to start from.

Give us a pic

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Tubbs

To resize, right click on the pic..hover your pointer over "open with" then from the menu select "Paint"..


Then click on resize (Top right ish), then on "Pixels"...type a value of say 1200 in the first box, (the other box changes automatically)

Save image..

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Verwood Handyman
I Know it says I'm On-line, but I might have just left myself logged in, whilst I'm out....

You really could be in trouble from the start with this.

You don't have a blowlamp and I doubt a chain wrench.

The pipe is old and without the correct tools you are most likely to crush the pipe or even snap it off in the ground, needs a pipefitter.

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Couple of these should work fine (if you know what your doing)

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Stilsons will crush the pipe.

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Never crushed a mild steel pipe yet. Assuming it is barrel and not lead

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Lucky then.

Old Galvanised water mains is the worse for falling to bits as soon as you touch it.

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If it's got to that stage it should be replaced anyway. Better than having the internal rusty bits clogging up your taps, ball valves and more importantly your cup of tea.

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rusty cup o tea.... extra flavour

Now that's how you do a "Quote" without the older quotes...PG Tips ..no sugar..semi-skimmed ta.

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Verwood Handyman
I Know it says I'm On-line, but I might have just left myself logged in, whilst I'm out....

i know how im just lazy

You can't beat an old galvy pipe for shearing at the threads either

Loads more work for those of us that can actually thread pipe, about 1 in 20 guys from what I can see

I can't wait til external gas runs are all in steel

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Apologies for not replying sooner!

Many thanks for all your replies, especially Wine-o, for the help to reduce my picture.

I have added a picture of the pipework in question. I have srcaped away the surface paint, which reveals a grey pipe that is threaded into the stopcock. From this picture I would be grateful for advice as to what metal this pipe is? (I need to add I haven't found a magnet as yet at home). Any help with what type of metal this pipe is will determine how much effort I will make towards unscrewing it from the stopcock.

Also with scraping away the paint, it now looks likely that the pipe is actually 1/2" and not what I first thought at 3/4"

Thank you one and all.

I am not sure if I should be opening a new topic as I have written this in another continuing post. I have opened this new post as I don't know if adding to the continuing post will still be viewed as I have taken a few days to respond to other members comments.

I want to add here my thanks for other members comments with the other post, named 'Issues unscrwing 3/4" pipework', especially Wine-o.

My issue is: what type of metal do I have to deal with in unscrewing the pipe from the stopcock.

I have added a picture of the pipework in question. I have srcaped away the surface paint, which reveals a grey pipe that is threaded into the stopcock. From this picture I would be grateful for advice as to what metal this pipe is? (I need to add I haven't found a magnet as yet at home). Any help with what type of metal this pipe is will determine how much effort I will make towards unscrewing it from the stopcock.

Thank you one and all.