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Interior Wall fix
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PeteW
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Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 37

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 9:07 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Update...

Just to check I'm on the right path...

PVA'd wall and have started to lash up first render coat to fill gaps and front of slates..



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Tryanything
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Joined: 18 Aug 2007
Posts: 1531
Location: Essex

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:15 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Why dont you just fix plasterboard straight onto the uprights scratch

Be a lot quicker and easier, and wont come out any further than plaster

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izalarfin
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Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:12 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

your scratch should look like a line of wwwwwwwwwww about 2 inch apart but as shallow wave's.
knock some 2 inch nails though a old bit of batten. don't smooth the render face, scrape your trowel lightly up it using the edge
so it leave the render face open and course like a rough piece of sandpaper ? no shine. don't use pva just damp with water
that's the best glue for cement keep it damp as you go, it will make the slate slippery but you'll never get the cement off it when its dry and hard.
( I'll look back when I get home tonight).
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PeteW
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Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 37

PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 6:33 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Tryanything wrote:
Why dont you just fix plasterboard straight onto the uprights scratch

Be a lot quicker and easier, and wont come out any further than plaster


Mainly because the slates are moving and slipping with every slight tape of the wall. Loads of old render came out, even though it looks like alot of render on the wall.. its really only just the gaps filled and smeared over the front of the slates theres no real depth to it at all.
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PeteW
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Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 37

PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 6:36 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Tryanything wrote:


Be a lot quicker and easier, and wont come out any further than plaster


Plasterboard will be the way I go probably as well... but wanted to secure the slates and build up a layer that I then dot and dab too.. the edge of the door frame is the line where the plasterboard will sit.....

I kinda thought I was following suggestions.. fill gaps, scratch coat, plaster board or plaster or eml etc etc Crying Thumbright Thumbright Thumbright
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PeteW
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Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 37

PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 6:39 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

izalarfin wrote:
your scratch should look like a line of wwwwwwwwwww about 2 inch apart but as shallow wave's.
knock some 2 inch nails though a old bit of batten. don't smooth the render face, scrape your trowel lightly up it using the edge
so it leave the render face open and course like a rough piece of sandpaper ? no shine. don't use pva just damp with water
that's the best glue for cement keep it damp as you go, it will make the slate slippery but you'll never get the cement off it when its dry and hard.
( I'll look back when I get home tonight).


I'm lost a bit here.. sorry Smile the "w"'s and the batten :)
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PeteW
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Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 37

PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 7:37 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

I get it now izalarfin ... I'm being a bit slow.. scratch a wavey line into the surface..

Cheers.. i just had to read it a few times doh! Razz
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izalarfin
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Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 5:47 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

I could of explained it better but I was a bit pushed for time this morning my mate was due to pick me up in ten minutes.
what you do is make like a rake head with the nails and batten, keep the nails in a straight line, and leave a blank bit of batten for a handle,
this makes it very quick to scratch a wall. I use one about 2 foot long including handle but this size would be in practical between them laths
but a small one to suit will save you time.
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