  
|
www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk Forum Index
-> Building Forum |
|
| Author |
Message |
Tryanything
Senior Member
Joined: 18 Aug 2007
Posts: 1531
Location: Essex
|
 Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 11:10 pm Post subject: |
  |
|
|
Fix sheet EML (expanded metal lathe) and render
_________________
Tony Tiger |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
|
izalarfin
Senior Member
Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 141
|
| Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 6:22 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
| I'd use expanded metal RIB lathe.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PeteW
Junior Member
Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 37
|
| Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 3:21 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
| So, fill big gaps with cement, attach sheet EML to wall then plaster onto the EML?
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
izalarfin
Senior Member
Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 141
|
| Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 6:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
after looking at your pictures again it looks like you will have to bend this wall to keep behind the string and the arcatrave
if so then don't use the rib eml ( although I think it would the better of the two ) you will have trouble bending bottom in to keep
behind the stair string.
damp down the wall then fill your big gaps.
or you could re-do it with lime putty mortar.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
RemedialExpert
Junior Member
Joined: 17 Sep 2008
Posts: 33
Location: essex
|
| Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
render will be too brittle as there a 3 substrates to this section.
Just buy a bag of HL2 and some well graded sand, will cost about 20 quid the lot, wet down lay it on rough, build it up in layers, top layerfloat up with water then sponge....2 hours work over 2 days... if it starts to crazy on final app just wet and float fat into cracks, sounds tricky but this is lovely to use..
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PeteW
Junior Member
Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 37
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 12:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
Once gaps filled and start layering up, do I want to let the layers settle for abit before adding another layer to get required thickness? then scratch the final coat up before the finish layer?
Sorry for all the questions... its a learning curve.. steep one! But I have a lot to do and a little time now researching and asking is goign to save alot of time and money later on! :)
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
izalarfin
Senior Member
Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 141
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 7:04 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
damp down the old wall with water, fill your deep holes, then fix the eml sheets, if you have a 4½ grinder use that to cut it with a thin
1mm disk, you'll lose less blood that way  . fix the sheets as taut as you can, your mix wants to be well mixed and a texture like
a cake mix, soft enough to push through the mesh but not so soft that the mesh cuts it and it slide down,
if you have any damp in the wall then you should use 4&1 with a waterproofer in it to fill the holes and a scratch coat under the mesh
then prick the mesh up with the same mix. if there is no damp then use 6,2&1 the 2 being lime this will help you get a fatty, sticky mix
to prick the mesh up, ( pricking up the mesh is the first coat over it ) don't try to fill every little hole, first coat, don't smooth it out with a
flat trowel, and if you get it 5 to 10mm thick first coat leave it to set up for a bit the sweep a cross it with a hearth brush to give it a key
for the next coat the next day. if you don't have any admix plastersizer then use about tea spoon volume worth of washing up liquid
in your mixer for each mix. if you have any thickness to build out then just add a coat the next day and scratch this up, mix = 5.1.1
use the same for the float coat and float with a devilling float ( this is a plastic float with 3 little nails in one end so the points just show
through ) ( panel pins ) this will lightly scratch the render ready for your skim coat.
if you let it dry out after the scratch coat don't forget to damp it down before the float coat.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PeteW
Junior Member
Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 37
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 10:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
Thanks soo much for taking the time to reply with so much information... 
One question Fixing the mesh.. is this with screws/tacks etc to the wood slats? or is it just fixed by the render?
Cheers
Pete
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
izalarfin
Senior Member
Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 141
|
| Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 3:35 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
1¼ clout nail to wood, 3 inch galvanise driven in at a angle between the brick joints may hold or drill, plug and screw and a broard washer.
you can take the eml over the wood panelling at the top corner of your wall, use some wood moulding to space it off by 5 to 10mm
and if you use waterproof render up to and including scratch coat then I'd use bonding for the float coat.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PeteW
Junior Member
Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 37
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PeteW
Junior Member
Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 37
|
| Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 9:59 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
| Also.. as point of interest.. the wall is only 6 inches thick approx.. the bathroom is right behind the slate.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
izalarfin
Senior Member
Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 141
|
| Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 3:59 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
that wall you could pull the little laths off then eml it
just damp down then do it with bonding.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PeteW
Junior Member
Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 37
|
| Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 10:26 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
Cool....
I'm undecided yet if I want to plasterboard the whole thing yet. I could spend ages on this wall.. replacing laths, removing slate etc.. or just as you say attach eml or gap fill, then render between and over laths then dot and dab.
I'll have to do the gap filling first anyway as removing the laths to replace with eml with probably make the slates slip as most the old mortar has gone now.
I'll keep ya's posted!
Also just finished tiling 22 square metres of natural slate in the living room.. man thats another learnign curve.. but it got loads better towards the end!
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
izalarfin
Senior Member
Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 141
|
| Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 5:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
mind you don't tread skimming or bonding over them, pink stains won't look good
and I take my hat off to you that's a job I've seen done but I wouldn't know where to start.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PeteW
Junior Member
Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 37
|
| Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:11 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
Yeah.. I totally bit the bullet.. was looking at a big load of cash for pro to do it so decided to buy a slate bench saw (Kinzo.. very good!) and crack on.. being natural slate they differ from 8mm to 12mm in depth and non are perfectly square... tis fun! 
I'll post some pics in showcase..
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
Search
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
