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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 8:31 pm 
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Hi

I've got a bit of play at the of my run of units, the last unit is 450mm cupboard, then integrated washing machine the 1000mm base unit.

Should the washing machine be in the gap tight - eg 600mm gap, or should I leave a gap either side. The 450mm cupboard buts up to a wall, and have about 10mm to play with at the moment.

When I first had it set up, it would shake all the units - so I messed around with it and created a gap each side, but this looks a bit rough.

I'm thinking I maybe didn't have it levelled quite right before.

The washing machine is a Beko integrated unit, and the manual says 600mm gap is required, at mentions nothing about an air gap each side. At the moment I have it in a 610mm gap.

I have an Inframe kitchen so the gap is a bit noticeable

What do you guys generally do ?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 8:48 pm 
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Gary1987 wrote:

What do you guys generally do ?



If it says 600 gap required I make a 600 gap - the gap needs checking carefully, back, front, top, bottom, (there's no substitute for a spare 600mm carcass) - don't forget that with an integrated unit the door has to fit with the same gaps as the other doors and if you have corresponding sized wall units above they have to match in too.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 8:49 pm 
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Then gap should be 600mm

Question for you though as you say it's an inframe kitchen. What width door have you been supplied?

An inframe style, i.e. door and frame that fits to the units should be exactly 600mm wide, however when it's for an appliance you should have been supplied with what is known as a lay-on door, this should be 596/7mm wide.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 9:38 pm 
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Thanks - I will readjust it again and run another load.

Would you expect any vibration through the adjacent units - this is the first integrated washing machine I've ever had.

It's a Second Nature Milton Oak kitchen - the door I ordered was a 735x597mm Integrated Appliance door


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 9:48 pm 
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OK that is the correct door for it then.

No shouldn't be any vibration, well not to the extent it is banging about.

It may just need leveling up better

ummmmm you did remove the transit bolts from the washing maching didn't you?

Also if you run a washing machine without anything in it or very little like say a single towel, they tend to bang around more anyway.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 9:52 pm 
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Good point about removing the transit bolts,I've made that mistake before and sparks were flying everywhere...... :oops:
I also didn't bother reading the instructions on my latest machine either and was putting the daz powder in the wrong compartment for 6 months.....

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 9:57 pm 
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Haha - Yea I did remove them. It's amazing from searching how many people forget though

I think it was a combination of levelling and not being quite square in the opening - I don't think to start with I had hinge holes in the door quite deep enough, so the door was skewed, and then the machine itself was skewed to true up the front. I drilled them a bit deeper last night when I was tweaking it.

Plus we've been running a washing machine for about 2 years fully freestanding (we haven't had a proper kitchen till now) so I've maybe become accustomed to that.

Also it doesn't reach where the underside of the worktop will be (Granite coming Tuesday) - and I haven't bothered lifting it higher. Beko show in the sales images/manual with a small filler piece to make up the gap or an optional lift kit.

I will re align it and re run a load - it was a general sized load.


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