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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 8:26 pm 
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Hi,

I am currently building a 3x5m workshop in my garden and would like some advice on installing the flooring. I'd like to achieve something like the attached 'Sample finish.jpg'.

The workshop will be used for general woodworking activity. The floor will therefore need to be hard wearing and must tolerate heavy loads (not me!).

I have enough 1500mm scaffold boards to cover the floor (see attached photos). The boards are clean and dry. The floor currently consists of a 4 inch concrete slab onto which I was planning to lay timber battens spaced around 300mm apart with 25mm celotex in between. I then plan to secure the boards to the battens.

I have the following questions:

1. Is a screw either side of the board sufficient to secure the board to each batten or would nails be better?
2. If I wanted a cleaner finish to the board, would I be best off hiring a thicknesser and running them all through this first? Something like this: https://hsstoolshop.co.uk/thicknesser-for-hire-1817-p.asp
3. How should I finish the boards for a natural look which is hard wearing yet low maintenance?
4. Should I tongue and groove the boards? If not, do I need to leave any gap between the boards? I assume I'd need to leave a gap around the outer perimeter of 5-10mm for expansion.

Many thanks in advance.

Regards,

Carl


Attachments:
File comment: Close up shot of boards. Boards are flat, dry, clean and fairly smooth.
Timber close.jpg
Timber close.jpg [ 129.68 KiB | Viewed 709 times ]
File comment: Wide shot of the boards. 1500mm long. 225mm wide by 38mm deep (I think, too cold outside to check).
Timber wide.jpg
Timber wide.jpg [ 118.95 KiB | Viewed 709 times ]
File comment: Sample finish I'm aiming for. Light in colour.
Sample finish.jpg
Sample finish.jpg [ 120.75 KiB | Viewed 709 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 8:19 pm 
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carl916 wrote:
I have enough 1500mm scaffold boards to cover the floor (see attached photos). The boards are clean and dry. The floor currently consists of a 4 inch concrete slab onto which I was planning to lay timber battens spaced around 300mm apart with 25mm celotex in between. I then plan to secure the boards to the battens.

Does the slab have an adequate DPM? If not you'll need one beneath the battens and Cellotex. Might not be a bad idea in any case

carl916 wrote:
1. Is a screw either side of the board sufficient to secure the board to each batten or would nails be better?

Personally I'd nail - less work than having to pilot and screw every board

carl916 wrote:
If I wanted a cleaner finish to the board, would I be best off hiring a thicknesser and running them all through this first?

Well, you are talking scaffolding boards. TBH might be better to install them first, then hire an industrial floor sander and deal with it that way. A thicknesser is going to be really hard work and there's no guarantee of flatness once the boards are installed

carl916 wrote:
How should I finish the boards for a natural look which is hard wearing yet low maintenance?

Don't want much, do you? A semi-matt finish will look less "artificial" than a gloss finish and acrylic finishes will wear better than oil or wax finishes.

carl916 wrote:
Should I tongue and groove the boards? If not, do I need to leave any gap between the boards? I assume I'd need to leave a gap around the outer perimeter of 5-10mm for expansion.

No. Way too much effort IMHO. Far easier to groove the boards to take 1/4in plywood loose tongues all round and to get the local timber suppliers to rip you down some loose tongues from 1/4in plywood offcuts. Glued or unglued, the choice is yours, but you will need either a couple of flooring cramps or home-made wedge cramps to install the boards tight to each other. A 5 to 10mm gap either side (covered by a skirting board) isn't a bad idea

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 8:55 am 
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While I agree with all Job & Knock has said, I would add my 2 penneth as follows:-

1) I would be tempted to 'bond' the boards by laying the 1st line & starting off the 2nd with a half board then repeating for the rest of the floor. The loose tongues are an excellent point.
2) Painting. I have used 'Floor Paint' on a floor clad in 20mm shuttering ply before and it proved durable (This paint is normally used on cementitious floors)

Davyp1


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 3:33 pm 
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Thanks for the responses so far.

Job and Knock wrote:
Does the slab have an adequate DPM?

Yes, I put in a DPM when laying the slab.

Job and Knock wrote:
TBH might be better to install them first, then hire an industrial floor sander and deal with it that way.

Agreed. This will be both easier and more likely to result in a flatter finish.

Job and Knock wrote:
Personally I'd nail - less work than having to pilot and screw every board

Ok, makes sense. Given the boards are 38mm thick then I'd probably opt for a 65mm Cut Clasp nail and then punch the heads below the surface to allow for sanding.

davyp1 wrote:
I would be tempted to 'bond' the boards by laying the 1st line & starting off the 2nd with a half board then repeating for the rest of the floor.

Yes, I will do this as suggested.

Job and Knock wrote:
Far easier to groove the boards to take 1/4in plywood loose tongues all round

Yes, this sounds like a better option. I assume I can just use a 6.3mm straight cut bit and then use 6mm plywood. How deep would the grooves be? About half an inch on each board? Would the plywood tongues run along the entire lengths and widths of the board (I.E. fill in all grooves) or would you use shorter pieces at regular intervals?

I assume the plywood tongues are to reduce vertical movement in the boards.

Carl


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 4:04 pm 
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1/4" ply tends to be 5.5mm round here
so check the ply available then you can use either 6mm or 1/4 inch [6.35mm]cutter

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 4:10 pm 
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In response to your last questions relative to loose tongues:-

In my opinion the 6.3mm bit should be fine.
Mark all the boards for 'bottom' and cut the grooves with the 'bottom' against the fence. This will ensure that the boards bed level to the battens. Any variance in surface levels would be addressed by subsequent sanding of the floor.
Grooves half inch deep in the boards should be fine. Cut the ply tongues a little less, say 22mm wide.
Yes fill the grooves longitudinally as the boards are laid remembering to tap a cut short length into each cross joint as the work progresses. Using a small brush & PVA you could glue the tongues in if you choose to.

It would be good practice to make a small 'test piece' using a couple of off-cuts of the board and proposed bit and ply.

Davyp1



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 3:19 pm 
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Thanks all. Think I'm pretty much set now. Just need to research the finish now.

Carl


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