Hello everyone,

Great site and up to now i have just been a reader as i have never needed to ask a question but now i am hoping someone can give me a bit of advice.

We are in the process of renewing our kitchen (at the moment i am buying everything ready to get started after christmas) and i need a bit of advice about installing a new oven and hob.
I have bought an induction hob and am currently undecided about the oven (narrowed down to a choice of two).
Now the question i am hoping you can help me with.
The kitchen has a seperate cooker supply from the fuse board and is protected by a 40amp circuit breaker, The hob i have bought has a sticker on it rating it at 6.4kW and the user manual for it states that it has a maximum current drawing rate of 32 Amperes.
Of the two ovens i am considering buying, one is rated at 3.1kW with a fuse rating of 16A the other is rated as 2.3kW with a fuse rating of 13A.
So the question is can the oven and hob both be wired to the cooker circuit or would they over load it?
Looking at the sticker on my current all in one cooker that is currently connected to the cooker circuit it says it rates at 9.5 -10.3kW 230-240v. (it has worked fine for years with no problems).
So if i was to go for the lower rated oven of the two could the hob be connected direct to the cooker circuit connection and then the oven via a switched FCU spurred from it?
would that be within the limits of the circuit. or should i just spur of the ring main for the oven and just only connect the hob to the cooker circuit.
The other oven that is rated higher (16A) has thrown me a bit. would that need a completely separate supply from the fuse board? should i factor that in to the install or could that be spurred of the cooker supply? (can you get 16A FCU's?).

I hope i haven't made that sound too confusing and I would really appreciate your thoughts and advice.
I know you probably get questions like this asked all the time and i have read through the threads with similar questions but i just need a bit more advice.

thanks for reading

you need to remember diversity this allows around 40% load to be excluded as not everything will be on at once plus the odd occasion its higher the system can happily cope if designed properly
so knock off around 35% load and call it the actual load and your fine as long as the circuit has been properly designed and protected

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we are all ------------------still learning

The lack of 16A FCU's is a problem. As well as a min supply requirement often there is also a max. Clearly if with a fault the oven would bust into flames rather than blow a fuse this is undesirable.

Running both oven and hob off the 40A supply taking diversity into consideration is unlikely to be a problem and you can get cooker connection units designed to take two cables.

So it is down to manufacturers recommendations as to max supply to oven. Likely 16A as designed for Europe.

The regulations state if over 2kW then non portable equipment should not be supplied from ring. Plugging in the kettle is permitted but not a fixed oven or immersion heater.

I also had same problem. And then started to look at stand alone units rather than built in. I found that the oven with a stand alone cooker has elements top, bottom, and back (fan) which can be used together. But a built in oven has a time share system because of power requirement problems. So except when getting a steam oven which as far as I could see were only available with built in ovens the stand alone cooker has a much better oven than can be bought for building in. So we went for a stand alone cooker.

Hind sight and it was not as good quality as the one it replaced. It has been spoilt for ha'penny worth of tar. The shelves will come right out and I have needed to put hair pins on them to stop them falling right out.

As to the 9 position selector switch 5 with fan and 4 without fan I normally only use one. Basic fan oven. I have used the cooling cycle, door closed grilling, and the setting recommended for pizza can't even remember what it was now. So over a year old and four options not even tried once.

I was impressed with door closed grilling that did work well. But at 60 I still grill the old way with door open using top oven rather than the bottom oven with all fancy options.

I looked for some instructions on how to use the options but other than the book that came with oven nothing.

The induction hob is very fast. However even that is not used very often at full output. Other than boiling water ready to add food using the full power only burns the food it's just too quick. The auto boil then simmer I use a lot glad to say mine has proper knobs so I can turn down the heat with knob as fast as lifting pan. My mothers has silly touch controls total waist of time. A really fast acting cooker but the touch controls were not fast to use so still had to lift pan rather than just switch off. The auto switch off has been used many times. It is so easy when there is no heat coming from hob after removing pan to serve the food to forget and leave the heat area (not a ring any more) active. I have come down many a morning to find it left on. But not active as auto safety has switched it off.

Big thing is less sweat. Heat goes into pan not kitchen so kitchen is a lot cooler.

If I was doing it again would I go for stand alone? Not sure! I have small stool I sit on to grill and having seen the difference when my mother dropped a dish from her oven onto floor to when I did same (before hair pin mod) then I must admit I was able to retrieve the food and just had a bit of grease to clean up. Her food went in the bin together with the dish that broke and also had chipped tiles on the floor. So unless in a wheel chair like her then think I'll stick to stand alone. They are safer.

As to the ovens you fancy consider how mine as not been used as expected and will the extra few watts with the over 3kW version really do the job any better than the one with smaller element? Unlikely. My mothers oven luck has the option for sliders like those used in filing cabinets so the food now stays flat as it's drawn out of the oven it does not tip even a little bit. And if I am honest that's far more use than all my 9 option in how to heat oven. On her oven they were extra and not cheap. But not available for my oven. But hers is a single oven so when using oven she has no grill. Well except for one built into microwave.

I hope I have given you food for thought?

Thanks for the replies folks i really appreciate your advice.
So just to be sure, is it ok to spur from the cooker supply to a 13A switched FCU to connect to the oven (i have decided to go for the lower 13A rated one as i am unsure how to protect the 16A one, plus it's a hundred quid cheaper).
I was thinking of using a double cooker connection like this Dual Appliance Outlet one side feeding the hob and the other to a swiched FCU to feed the oven. Does that sound ok? or would you recommend a different way.

thanks again for your advice.

Sounds OK but run it past the LABC inspector first when you pay them their fee. Although likely cheaper not to DIY and use an electrician who is a member of a scheme and he will advise. At end of day it's down to guy or guys issuing the minor works and completion certificates as to what you can do.