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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 1:07 pm 
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I have a Makita Mitre Saw MLS100, which is solidly built and powerful, but which has an odd problem. The fence is a substantial aluminium casting which presents 2 vertical faces, one on either side of the saw blade, linked together by an integral curved bar. The 2 faces should stand in the same plane but in my case they are slightly inclined to one another. If you place a long straight edge on the bed it will touch the fence at both outer ends but the inner ends are set back by 3mm. This means that if you set the left hand part of the fence square to the blade with a set square, and check the right hand part, it is several degrees off square. So if I want to cut say 10mm off a plank to square it up, it does that well, but if you want cut in the middle of a long plank it will not be square.
As this is otherwise an excellent saw, I wonder what I can do to resolve this. My first thought was to add a facing to the fence in timber but this would have to be planed to a subtle taper which would be difficult for me to get right. I am now thinking of using an aluminium flat bar say 20 by 5mm bolted to the fence (there are 2 holes each side) and shimmed out til both sides lie in the same plane. The easiest but crudest answer would be to cut the curved linking bar so that each half of the fence can be independantly set square and in line then clamped in place (each side has 2 substantial M8 bolts into the bed with oval holes for front-to-back adjustment). But I am reluctant to do this as I imagine the link is there for a reason.
Has anyone any better suggestions, please?
Thank you,Gavin


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 1:56 pm 
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You might find that if you set one side square and clamp the bolts up tight you can then loosen off the bolts on the other side, G clamp a strong metal bar to both sides to pull them into line, and then tighten up the bolts on the second side.

There's quite likely to be enough flex in the curved bar to allow this.



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 3:41 pm 
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Thanks, Inky Pete! I never thought of that - I will try it. Gavin


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:13 pm 
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Update: I tried Inky Pete's idea but although it reduced the discrepancy (from 3 to 2mm) it's still too much. Trouble was the only steel bar I had wasn't a thick enough section, so it was flexing rather than the fence. I will try and get something more substantial.
Gavin


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:56 pm 
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i had exactly the same problem with a dewalt mitre saw. i ended up just replacing the fence.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:16 pm 
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Update 2: Fin's answer is probably the best, but to save time (and arguments with supplier) I made a face plate of hardwood. I didn't try planing it but built up a couple of layers of wood veneer (from ancient delaminated ply- very useful!) at the bolt holes and when the glue was set sanded them down til it bedded down right. I now have a straight fence that can be set square.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:35 pm 
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if it ends up not working properly then i got mine from http://www.mtmc.co.uk/Spare-Parts__c-p-0-0-240.aspx



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 1:07 pm 
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Thanks for the link, Fin. The facing is working fine but reduces the maximum width of cut. If I find I need that, I know where to go!


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