Hi,
My immersion thermostat burnt out - it's the old type Backer 11".
Got a replacement sunvic 2301 - again it's the old type with no reset.

I got a couple of problems with it:
1. The wire (black) going out of the old thermostat to the cutout bar melted.
I'd like to know what kind of wire I should replace this with please?

2. The cutout bar is fairly corroded and I'd like to replace it while
I have it all stripped down. Is it possible to get this component on its own?
If so, what's the proper title for it please?

3. The unit is not labelled so I'm not 100% on the wiring. Is it safe to say that
the live comes in on the right hand side of the unit like the last one?
It says single pole in the manufacturer's spec:

http://www.sunvic.co.uk/rt.htm


Many thanks,
Clint

Nothing to do with new or old it's down to material used for header tank. The type you link to is only suitable for electric only heating. If you have solid fuel heating as well it can rupture the built in fuse even when there is no electrical fault.Normally any 2.5mm cable will do this job but I would be wanting to know why the old bit melted!Unlikely you can get spares
Likely the thermostat can be wired either way around. However it is never safe to assume. It is far to easy to give advice only to find the one referred to has something different. Ulster have a far better system than rest of UK, and it is found in the odd house on the main land. So I am loathed to advise in case it is not standard.

Eric surely the only way for the wiring to burn out is a dead short in the heating element.
The OP Clint, states thermostat burnt out, I've had a few thermostats fail but I would never term them burnt out!! Shouts there's a bigger problem in my note book

Edit: just seen Clint's earlier entry and WPM gave him an appropriate IMHO answer.

This was also my thought. I see a little more than reported! I expect the element is also US. But as normal with DIY there is no readings given from tests made.

What we have to consider it how far can we tell the DIY guy he hasn't a hope of working out what is wrong and still be accepted as giving reasonable answers?

So we have to humour the writer to some extent. I expect if the writer removed the element he would find a rupture in the outer shell of the mineral insulated element.

But do you really think he would realise this?

Thanks for your help lads. I'll pull the element on Saturday if I can get a replacement in time and I'll let you know how I get on. Is it fair to say that if the stat is 11" that the element I need is also 11"?
Thanks again.
Clint

Better read up on this Clint:
http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/plumb ... heater.htm
If the thermostat is 11" the heater will usually be longer, as you can see in this info guide, eg a 7" thermostat would be used in an 11" element; if you give the cylinder size, some Experts might have a better idea!.

great, thanks very much!

For the sake of £15 just get a complete new unit. If it's your only source of hot water get an incolloy one which will last much longer.

It's not only the cistern material it's also the base it stands on that counts but there's no reason not to fit a thermostat with a resettable cutout and plenty reasons to fit one

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Well lads, I took your advice and decided on a new element. Thinking that I might damage the threads on the cylinder, I got a plumber in to do the job. He was a bit surprised to see 3core plus earth going into the unit and seemed a bit unsure of what to do. In any event, he wired it up and all seemed grand. I noticed that the cap on the element got extremely hot so I was a bit concerned but he said it was nothing to worry about. Tried it this morning and what do you know but the unit is DEAD:(

First thought is the 3 core and earth has been overloaded. should be using this

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electri ... 730/p89357

Second thought is that the switch may also be the wrong type. can you take/post pics of the set up?

Edit...3rd thought...the new thermostsat should have a reset button (Lecky off, remove cover, press re-set) and check that the stat is turned up no higher than 60C

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Verwood Handyman
I Know it says I'm On-line, but I might have just left myself logged in, whilst I'm out....

Hi!

Hope you can see the pictures ok?

I lifted the cap, reset the stat and turned it down because it was on full - it seems to be working away now.

There is a 3core+E coming out of mains fusebox to the immersion switch. The element type seems to be wired for 2core+E. The plumber wired the additional core wire into the neutral element as well as the neutral wire. Is this safe?

So I'm not sure what to do now. The plumber says he can just ignore the additional black wire at the cylinder but it is wired into the immersion switch so I'm not so sure. If I get some 2core + E cable as you say and also a new switch, what should I do with the additional black core coming from the mains?

Hope this makes sense?

Many thanks!
Clint

Not the clearest of pics but OK..that 3 core really needs replacing with the proper cable as per the link in my previous post.

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Verwood Handyman
I Know it says I'm On-line, but I might have just left myself logged in, whilst I'm out....

Those two switches on the wall does one say bath and one basin?

The old element may have been a twin

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Thanks for all your help with this lads. Got the double element in and it's working just fine!
Clint.