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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 12:01 pm 
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Dear All,

We have chosen an IKEA metod kitchen after a lot of looking.

When fitting should we use the IKEA metod suspension rail or not ?

Which method of fitting is more long lasting/strong ?

Thanks in advance !


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 12:17 pm 
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What other method is available?
Last one I fitted was hung on the rail,base units and wall units.
Awful kitchens to fit,the walls have to be bang on for plumb and have to be nice and flat or you are in trouble.
No service void on the base units is also a major headache.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 2:43 pm 
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We bought some for our new utility room and one of the major bugbear for us is that because the base units are deep , a normal size worktop only just covers the top of the units.
They are great for storage but with no void at the back for pipes etc , they are awkward to fit.

Mike

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 3:09 pm 
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London mike 61 wrote:
We bought some for our new utility room and one of the major bugbear for us is that because the base units are deep , a normal size worktop only just covers the top of the units.

Howdens worktops are 616mm wide, which can be a help. Solid wood worktops often work out at around 625 or 650mm wide, which gives you even more leeway. Agreed, though, about the lack of tolerance for older houses in the IKEA units - seems like they are designed to go into new(ish) timber-framed houses in Scandinavia where the walls are straight and plumb and the services are all underfloor rather than the average Victorian terrace house in the UK.

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OK, I'm an "old school" chippie, so please don't ask me to do a bodge job - I didn't bring my horse today and in any case you don't seem to have a hitching rail!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 8:03 pm 
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Further to your question, we used the rails for the wall cabinets and they look great but we just had the base units floor standing for the reasons I stated earlier.

I hope that helps
Mike

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 6:27 am 
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Fitted 3 of these recently and found rail was more of a hindrance than help in typical UK wobbly Victorian.
As J K said, wider worktops help- another issue is the 80cm height- there is very little leeway in the legs so with an uneven floor either you need to raise worktop height to allow for this or cut the legs down. Kick plate is c shaped plastic so challenging to scribe..


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 8:21 am 
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The lack of service void at the back of the ikea units is a double edged sword, yes a ball ache to fit but, the home owner gets 12 cupboard in 11 cupboards.

Having DIY fitted 3 ikea kitchen now, I only use the rail for the wall units with just "holding fixings" at the top ie. not done up tight when the full row of units are in place I connect the units together ensuring all the units are flush and square to each other including end panels. Only then do I tighten up the top fixing and remove the metod rail, if you have wall units next to tall units take the same approach, get then all fitted together and square to each other before final fixing.

I do exactly the same with runs of base units too however, you will need a couple of car trolley jacks once you start to get more than 6 or so units, I do L shapes the same only every splitting the units when you have a U shape which quite frankly, is bloody impossible.

If you have a long run of units in an old house the walls may run out of true leaving a large gap at the other end, then you have to separate 2 of the units and put a filler piece in to angle back the units, I generally use 1 of the plinth boards for this as they are cheap and match. If the wall runs in of true, only connect the units at the front allowing the back of the units to open slightly.

It'll seem like a massive ball ache at the time but, when you come to fit the doors you'll appreciate the units being square and true.


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