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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 3:56 pm 
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I want to hang a very wide mirror (196cm). It is an Ikea Hovet (http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/decoration/mirrors/hovet-mirror-aluminium-art-50038213/) and requires screws placed in the wall 194cm apart for it to hang on.

Any tips how to actually measure out this width as it needs to be spot on and level?

I'm just a basic DIY'er so don't have a laser level or extremely long spirit level (though will buy if it can't be done with basic tools).

Any advice appreciated.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 4:18 pm 
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If you have an accurate spirit level (at least 600mm long for preference) you can either use that in conjunction with a 2.0m length of batten that you know is straight, or just use the level on it's own, start at one mark and level across the length of the level and make a new mark and keep going until you've reached 194.0 cm. Work it back the other way if you want to double check.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 4:20 pm 
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iain3915 wrote:
I want to hang a very wide mirror (196cm). It is an Ikea Hovet (http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/deco ... -50038213/) and requires screws placed in the wall 194cm apart for it to hang on.

Any tips how to actually measure out this width as it needs to be spot on and level?

I'm just a basic DIY'er so don't have a laser level or extremely long spirit level (though will buy if it can't be done with basic tools).

Any advice appreciated.
The fittings look to be hidden so I'd do the following

Piece of masking tape applied over the back so it covers the two fixing holes. Almost full length of mirror.
Trace the fixing holes onto the tape.

Carefully measure the wall using a known datum - ceiling or floor. Make a straight line at the height you want the fixings to be at using a level.

Transfer the masking tape to the wall and ensure you get it level and that the traced parts are at the same height at each end and level.

Double check before drilling that they are the same from your datum point.

Drill the wall through the tape, remove tape, use the right fixings for the job and hang your mirror.

Take a step back, look at your smug face in the mirror and do a fonze "hey" to yourself.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 4:56 pm 
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One little tip here is to tap a centre punch into the marks for the holes. Then get a thinner masonry dril than you need and go in about half an inch. Then put the correct sized masonry bit in and carefully drill the holes to depth. This should ensure that you do not get 'wander' as you start drilling leading to poor alignment.

DWD

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 6:16 pm 
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:welcomeuhm: I'd more interested in what you are fixing it to. plasterboard or plaster over brick ?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 6:50 pm 
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Thanks for the advice. It's definitely not plasterboard as this part of the property was built c.1890. There is a layer of plaster but don't know exactly what the wall is made from - something solid I think (hope!).


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 7:02 pm 
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Ikea mirror in a victorian property ? :?

another option for getting them level is a length of plastic tube and water. bend the tube into a U shape. then partly fill with water.

the water level at each end will always be level with the other.

Warning time.

level in an old property may well "look" wrong. if your walls ceilings aren't level it may be better to fit at what "looks" right.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 8:38 pm 
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wine~o wrote:
Ikea mirror in a victorian property ? :?

another option for getting them level is a length of plastic tube and water. bend the tube into a U shape. then partly fill with water.

the water level at each end will always be level with the other.

Warning time.

level in an old property may well "look" wrong. if your walls ceilings aren't level it may be better to fit at what "looks" right.
This is something I have had to do in the past. Bang level can look odd if everything else is on the p*ss. Only you can tell this.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 8:45 pm 
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That is why a strip of masking tape for marking up gives you the best idea of how it looks before you drill. Trust the eye not the level :thumbright:

DWD

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 7:10 pm 
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dewaltdisney wrote:
That is why a strip of masking tape for marking up gives you the best idea of how it looks before you drill. Trust the eye not the level :thumbright:

DWD


That! If other objects above and below the mirror are not level you may hang it level but it will look wrong.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 8:20 pm 
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I've seen this suggested several times over the years, (and I've been in a fair few wonky buildings) but unless I'm specifically told to hang something on the pi$$ it always goes up level. (It's never really looked wrong).

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 12:20 pm 
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I had a similar issue, but with a very heavy Victorian wood framed sideboard back mirror, onto a plaster board wall. I gave it some thought.
I fixed the hanging point for one side of the mirror, and attached that end of the mirror to the wall, resting the other end on top of the mantle piece. Then with my wifely helper, I put a spirit level on the top edge of the mirror frame and lifted the unattached end until the spirit level showed 'level' and my helper marked the spot where the second hole needed to go. Then lowered the mirror, made the hole, and lifted the end of the mirror and attached it. Everything was perfectly level.
Since the mirror must weigh around 10 kg, I did something more. To take the weight off the two hanging fixings, I also screwed a couple of small angle brackets to the wall, one at each end of the mirror at the base and let the weight of the mirror rest on the brackets. In that way, the two top fixings didn't actually take any weight, just secured the mirror to the wall.

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