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How do I preserve homemade wooden gravel boards against rot?

 
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Roy22
Junior Member


Joined: 15 Apr 2007
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:13 pm    Post subject: How do I preserve homemade wooden gravel boards against rot? Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

I need to make some 9ft gravel boards to repair a fence, these having proven impossible to find in my area (Birmingham).

I can think of two options, either get them specially 'cut to order' at my local saw mill, or (don't laugh) 'glue & screw' two shorter treated boards together to get the required length.

Whether I have them cut to order (which exposes at least one untreated side) or else splice two together (exposing a join), I have the same worry: Will the board last a decent time before rotting?

I don't want this repair to rot like the original fence did. So how best do I preserve the new gravel board?

I've used before (and heard good reports of) Cuprinol's Green Wood Preserver. If I leave the board to soak some of that up for a few hours, perhaps in an improvised tarpaulin 'bath', what will be the life expectancy once in use on damp ground? I've seen some treated boards online with amazing 15 year guarantees, and I'd appreciate any opinions on whether this sort of DIY treating of timber is going to be a mistake or not?
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skiking
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Joined: 13 Sep 2006
Posts: 3086
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:50 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Ask your timber merchant for tanalised wood cut to the required lengths and treat with the cuprinol to mention apply more to both ends, especially the freshly cut end.

I'm sure the Wood pro's will come up with the real way Embarassed
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petengade
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Joined: 06 Jan 2007
Posts: 72
Location: Sussex

PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:03 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Had six scaffold boards and soaked them in the green cuprinol and used them for gravel boards, they lasted for ten years, rotten now will cast next ones in concrete. some timber firms will treat the boards under pressure for you. ask how long they guarantee the tanalised ones for.
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big-all
Pro Carpenter


Joined: 16 Dec 2006
Posts: 2775
Location: redhill surrey an auld reekie laddie

PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:03 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

skiking wrote:
Ask your timber merchant for tanalised wood cut to the required lengths and treat with the cuprinol to mention apply more to both ends, especially the freshly cut end.

I'm sure the Wood pro's will come up with the real way Embarassed


yep spot on

just ask for 9ft gravel boards then pause

if they dont have them they will suggest alternatives

having said that the gravel board is ment to be sacraficial and be replaced as required as they are intouch with the ground

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Roy22
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Joined: 15 Apr 2007
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:11 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. But which matters most, Tanalising or soaking in Cuprinol? Don't know if my local saw mill can tanalise, if they can, is that all you need, or is it daft to skip the cuprinol as a backup?

As an aside, how do you cast your own concrete gravel boards, as only 6ft seem to be available and this would be the most permanent answer?

And if featherboard/arris rail panels are standardly 6ft or 9ft wide (as the books say) why does asking for a 9ft gravel board get the 'you'll never find one of those mate' response? Do people standardly erect the most expensive form of fencing in 9ft panels on damp soil?
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petengade
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Joined: 06 Jan 2007
Posts: 72
Location: Sussex

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 6:36 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

By cast I meant make a 9foot by 6inch wide by 2inch high box and make gravel boards from concrete with three 1/4 inch reinforcing bars in each, will last for ever.
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Corky
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Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 16
Location: South Wales

PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 1:28 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

The whole point of the gravel board is to save the fence from rotting - watch if you use concrete, you will need a small gap above to avoid a water trap which will encourage the fence edges itself to rot. You will end up with another gravel board on top of the concrete one.
If using wood make sure its rough timber and is tanalised, you could also try soaking in old engine oil

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dirtydeeds
Craftsman Carpenter


Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 256

PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 9:42 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

as mentioned above

the gravel board is sacrificial
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