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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 1:16 pm 
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I have a piece of bullnose architrave going from the floor to the ceiling but I want to add a piece of architrave across the header of the door frame so how would I do this.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 2:43 pm 
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With a normal storey frame, you wouldn't usually, as the frame/liner will be narrower than the architrave.

If the transom is wider than the architrave, (it must look horrible) I'd feel inclined to recut the longer piece and fit it like a standard height architrave and then run the top section off of that.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 2:59 pm 
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For pencil round or bullnose like you have then what is the norm up in Scotland is to scribe the profile of the pencil round on the horizontal piece so it sits over the profile of the vertical piece running from floor to ceiling.
This has to be done at the skirting where the use of a plinth/skirting block is not used and the skirting joins the architrave/facing.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:38 pm 
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steviejoiner74 wrote:
For pencil round or bullnose like you have then what is the norm up in Scotland is to scribe the profile of the pencil round on the horizontal piece so it sits over the profile of the vertical piece running from floor to ceiling.
This has to be done at the skirting where the use of a plinth/skirting block is not used and the skirting joins the architrave/facing.
How would you scribe the profile of the pencil round on to the horizontal piece.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 10:03 pm 
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curtains wrote:
steviejoiner74 wrote:
For pencil round or bullnose like you have then what is the norm up in Scotland is to scribe the profile of the pencil round on the horizontal piece so it sits over the profile of the vertical piece running from floor to ceiling.
This has to be done at the skirting where the use of a plinth/skirting block is not used and the skirting joins the architrave/facing.
How would you scribe the profile of the pencil round on to the horizontal piece.

With a handsaw and coping saw.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 8:06 am 
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ayjay wrote:
With a normal storey frame, you wouldn't usually, as the frame/liner will be narrower than the architrave.

If the transom is wider than the architrave, (it must look horrible) I'd feel inclined to recut the longer piece and fit it like a standard height architrave and then run the top section off of that.
My camera on my phone is not working so I've taken a picture off google images to try and show what I'm trying to do. I have a cupboard where the old water tank was but now it has a combi boiler in but I don't like the architrave running all the way from the floor to the ceiling with a board at the top so I'm thinking of removing the wood and replacing with plasterboard then fitting the architrave the normal way but doing it this way would mean I'll have to try and fill the gap between the plasterboard and wall.


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File comment: Where the arrow is this is how I want the joint to look like if I keep the board at the top od the ceiling.
airing cupboard.png
airing cupboard.png [ 367.03 KiB | Viewed 658 times ]
File comment: Where it says plasterboard or ply this is where I'm thinking of putting plasterboard and removing the architrave.
plasterboard or ply.png
plasterboard or ply.png [ 3.08 MiB | Viewed 658 times ]
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 10:14 am 
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curtains wrote:
ayjay wrote:
My camera on my phone is not working so I've taken a picture off google images to try and show what I'm trying to do. I have a cupboard where the old water tank was but now it has a combi boiler in but I don't like the architrave running all the way from the floor to the ceiling with a board at the top so I'm thinking of removing the wood and replacing with plasterboard then fitting the architrave the normal way but doing it this way would mean I'll have to try and fill the gap between the plasterboard and wall.


That wasn't what I read into your original post, but no matter.

What you want to do is fine. You'll need to cut back the frame above the door opening to allow the plasterboard/ply to pass over it, (plasterboard will be better to achieve a finish that doesn't develop cracks), and then the architrave can be fitted as normal with a 45° mitre on each piece where they meet.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 12:07 pm 
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That’s not what I thought you’d asked either.
Agree with ayjay :thumbright:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 12:25 pm 
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steviejoiner74 wrote:
That’s not what I thought you’d asked either.
Agree with ayjay :thumbright:
I still want to know how to join the wood together from my first post. I'm only thinking of removing the wood and replacing with plasterboard if my first post didn't work.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 1:13 pm 
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The quick way to "mark" a scribe is to cut it with a 45° mitre as though it was being mitred, the resulting profile showing on the end grain then becomes the scribe line. It won't be an easy cut to make on a wide(ish) bullnose, I doubt you will achieve a 100% fit the first time with a coping saw and will need to chisel some more of the waste out after the saw cut.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 8:21 am 
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To be fair the scribe cut doesn't need to be perfect on it's entire surface only on the meeting visible edges. Slightly backcutting the scribe might leave a tiny gap on the back edge of the archs but that will be invisible and make the front closer and neater.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 9:12 am 
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Grendel wrote:
To be fair the scribe cut doesn't need to be perfect on it's entire surface only on the meeting visible edges.


With a bullnose in the situation here, the visible edge is the tricky bit cos its shaved down to waferthin on the meeting edge.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 9:17 am 
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Yes agreed . I have done similar in the past and have found an upside down belt sander is an easy way of making such a scribe pressing on the front roller which leaves a nice crisp edge.
Mind you after all is said and done I'd be tempted to go with the removal and replace with plasterboard route unless it has to match something else in room.


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