DIY Forum

 

Ultimate Handyman Ultimate Handyman Ultimate Handyman Ultimate Handyman

 

DIY Forum/Home improvement advice

 

 

A-Z CONTENTS | DISCLAIMER | DIRECTORY | DIY VIDEO | HOME | SAFETY FIRST | FORUM RULES

It is currently Fri Aug 22, 2014 4:56 am


Time zone: Europe/London [ DST ]




 

 


Post new topic This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 19 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 11:55 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:29 pm
Posts: 30
Has thanked: 1 times
Been thanked: 0 times
ok here goes, hot water is working fine but central heating doesnt want to come on. its switched to auto on the main control and thermostat is showing it hasnt reached require temp, boiler doesnt "fire up" except to heat the hot water - any ideas guys
thanks :-)


Top
 Profile  
 

You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you register or log in

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:12 am 
Offline
BANNED
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 10:48 pm
Posts: 2137
Location: Leicestershire
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 1 times
is the pump running ???


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:15 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:29 pm
Posts: 30
Has thanked: 1 times
Been thanked: 0 times
the only noise seems to be a bit of water going into the top of the boiler, kind of gurgling
Thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 1:01 am 
Offline
BANNED
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 10:48 pm
Posts: 2137
Location: Leicestershire
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 1 times
find the pump, see if it is running ?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 8:34 am 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:29 pm
Posts: 30
Has thanked: 1 times
Been thanked: 0 times
Doesnt seem to be, would the pump start running before the bolier fired up?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 12:21 pm 
Offline
BANNED
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 10:48 pm
Posts: 2137
Location: Leicestershire
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 1 times
the pump will be controlled by the wall thermostat

turn the boiler to CH and then turn the wall stat up

then take the cover off the pump and check for volts

if you dont have volts then its a problem with the supply to the pump or the wall stat

if you have volts but its not pumping then its probably seased up

there will be a large screw in the middle of the face of the pump

undo this, a small amount of water will leak out, dont worry but have a small container ready to catch it and make sure it wont damage anything

then put a screwdriver down the hole and you will find a screw head and give it a tweak and the pump will run

then put the big screw back in

now I would do this with the pump powered but it probably a good idea to turn the power off

its very common for pumps to sease over the summer months

if you have power and this doesnt work then perhaps you may need a new pump


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 7:26 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:29 pm
Posts: 30
Has thanked: 1 times
Been thanked: 0 times
ok i have removed the big screw in the centre and when i put the tip of screwdriver in there i can feel the pump spinning, the pipes either side of pump are hot so im guessing its pumping the water, but still no sign of boiler firing up and heat to rads. what would be the next thing to check?

thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 7:39 pm 
Offline
BANNED
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 10:48 pm
Posts: 2137
Location: Leicestershire
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 1 times
have you got the three port valve

errr you've reached the end of my knowledge here :oops: HINTON


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 7:52 pm 
Offline
BANNED

Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:41 am
Posts: 926
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
Is there a motorised valve or two near the pump?

If there is then try moving the lever on the thing, the mot valve is normally a brass bodied valve with a silver or white box ontop, sometimes blue.

This will manually open the valve to give you heat.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 10:27 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:29 pm
Posts: 30
Has thanked: 1 times
Been thanked: 0 times
hmm there is a silver box just under the pump with a lid on the top which i will investigate tomorrow
Cheers


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 1:26 pm 
Offline
Gas/Heating Expert
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:40 pm
Posts: 4383
Location: Bournemouth
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 9 times
providing that teh external controls are calling for heat, then the most likely problem is the syncron motor in the 3 port valve.

I asume you have a normal 3 port valve on a fully pumped system.

(tim has decribed a gavity hot water/pumped heating system)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:19 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:29 pm
Posts: 30
Has thanked: 1 times
Been thanked: 0 times
ok, i managed to open the silver box and inside is a honeywell sundial y plan 3 position diverter valve v4073a1039 (i think this is the 3 port valve you referred to Hinton). the lid was rusted over so i think there has been a very slight drip from the pipe above it which i can only describe as a dead end with a knurled thumb screw type thing at the end (and no, i havent undone it!...lol)
Anyway under the silver box is a spring loaded lever, if i move the position of this it moves itself back again, should it do this or should it stay in position? ( it seems it will hold itself if i hook it back but im not sure if would cause damage by holding this valve open?)
if this needs replacing is it something i can do myself?

thanks again for help so far


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:34 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:29 pm
Posts: 30
Has thanked: 1 times
Been thanked: 0 times
ah just read bathstyle's post and tried holding the lever open manually and low and behold the rads are hot - woohoo.
Now how do i tell if its the valve or the electrics, i guess the fact i can open the valve manually suggests the valve works and its the electrics at fault (give me a computer and i can strip it down and rebuild it etc but this sort of stuff is way above my head....lol)

If i hold the lever open manually what happens when the thermostat has reached its temp, willl it just keep sending hot water round the system until i move the lever to auto again?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 12:12 am 
Offline
Pro Handyman
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 4:31 pm
Posts: 3428
Location: North West, England, United Kingdom
Has thanked: 18 times
Been thanked: 26 times
If the thermal monitors are working the boiler will shut down when it receives hot water back. It will be overworking and highly inefficient!

If you need heating lock the valve back, until you get a replacement. But you'll have hot rads while you have hot water, just like in the winter, but the valve won't shut when it gets hot returned the boiler will.

If I recall it's the whole thing you want, valve and electrics. It might be worth calling an engineer in now, bit like you handing me one of your computers and me setting on it with a 16" Stilson? :-P

_________________
Jaeger.
Senior Member doesn't mean I'm OLD!

darrenc wrote:
I dont think its a stupid question but does show a lack of understanding of how paint works and reasons for certain applications, now dont jump down my throat Jaegar i'm not being funny its just a classic case in point of a well educated professionally trained painter against a general tradesman.

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 12:25 am 
Offline
Gas/Heating Expert
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:40 pm
Posts: 4383
Location: Bournemouth
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 9 times
Before you call anyone, you should be able to test the voltage to the syncron motor within the valve.

Its a 240v motor so go careful! Set the heating to on (both programmer & wall stat)

First test the supply wire to the 3 port valve, (at the wiring center). The white one should be live (240v)

Next test the voltage across the syncron motor, I'm guessing you'll find 240(ish) volts going into the motor, but no movement.

You should easily be able to replace the motor, by itself.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/replacment-syncro ... dZViewItem


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 19 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next



Similar topics
   

Time zone: Europe/London [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  


News News Site map Site map SitemapIndex SitemapIndex RSS Feed RSS Feed Channel list Channel list
ultimatehandyman privacy policy

Contact

 



phpBB SEO