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Hot water ok but NO central heating - potterton system
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johntyburger
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Joined: 03 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 10:55 pm    Post subject: Hot water ok but NO central heating - potterton system Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

ok here goes, hot water is working fine but central heating doesnt want to come on. its switched to auto on the main control and thermostat is showing it hasnt reached require temp, boiler doesnt "fire up" except to heat the hot water - any ideas guys
thanks Smile
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tim'll fix it
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:12 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

is the pump running ???
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johntyburger
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 1:15 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

the only noise seems to be a bit of water going into the top of the boiler, kind of gurgling
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tim'll fix it
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:01 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

find the pump, see if it is running ?
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johntyburger
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 7:34 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Doesnt seem to be, would the pump start running before the bolier fired up?
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tim'll fix it
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 11:21 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

the pump will be controlled by the wall thermostat

turn the boiler to CH and then turn the wall stat up

then take the cover off the pump and check for volts

if you dont have volts then its a problem with the supply to the pump or the wall stat

if you have volts but its not pumping then its probably seased up

there will be a large screw in the middle of the face of the pump

undo this, a small amount of water will leak out, dont worry but have a small container ready to catch it and make sure it wont damage anything

then put a screwdriver down the hole and you will find a screw head and give it a tweak and the pump will run

then put the big screw back in

now I would do this with the pump powered but it probably a good idea to turn the power off

its very common for pumps to sease over the summer months

if you have power and this doesnt work then perhaps you may need a new pump

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johntyburger
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 6:26 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

ok i have removed the big screw in the centre and when i put the tip of screwdriver in there i can feel the pump spinning, the pipes either side of pump are hot so im guessing its pumping the water, but still no sign of boiler firing up and heat to rads. what would be the next thing to check?

thanks
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tim'll fix it
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 6:39 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

have you got the three port valve

errr you've reached the end of my knowledge here Embarassed HINTON

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bathstyle
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 6:52 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Is there a motorised valve or two near the pump?

If there is then try moving the lever on the thing, the mot valve is normally a brass bodied valve with a silver or white box ontop, sometimes blue.

This will manually open the valve to give you heat.
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johntyburger
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 9:27 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

hmm there is a silver box just under the pump with a lid on the top which i will investigate tomorrow
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Hinton Heating
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 12:26 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

providing that teh external controls are calling for heat, then the most likely problem is the syncron motor in the 3 port valve.

I asume you have a normal 3 port valve on a fully pumped system.

(tim has decribed a gavity hot water/pumped heating system)

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johntyburger
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:19 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

ok, i managed to open the silver box and inside is a honeywell sundial y plan 3 position diverter valve v4073a1039 (i think this is the 3 port valve you referred to Hinton). the lid was rusted over so i think there has been a very slight drip from the pipe above it which i can only describe as a dead end with a knurled thumb screw type thing at the end (and no, i havent undone it!...lol)
Anyway under the silver box is a spring loaded lever, if i move the position of this it moves itself back again, should it do this or should it stay in position? ( it seems it will hold itself if i hook it back but im not sure if would cause damage by holding this valve open?)
if this needs replacing is it something i can do myself?

thanks again for help so far
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johntyburger
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:34 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

ah just read bathstyle's post and tried holding the lever open manually and low and behold the rads are hot - woohoo.
Now how do i tell if its the valve or the electrics, i guess the fact i can open the valve manually suggests the valve works and its the electrics at fault (give me a computer and i can strip it down and rebuild it etc but this sort of stuff is way above my head....lol)

If i hold the lever open manually what happens when the thermostat has reached its temp, willl it just keep sending hot water round the system until i move the lever to auto again?
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Jaeger_S2k
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 11:12 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

If the thermal monitors are working the boiler will shut down when it receives hot water back. It will be overworking and highly inefficient!

If you need heating lock the valve back, until you get a replacement. But you'll have hot rads while you have hot water, just like in the winter, but the valve won't shut when it gets hot returned the boiler will.

If I recall it's the whole thing you want, valve and electrics. It might be worth calling an engineer in now, bit like you handing me one of your computers and me setting on it with a 16" Stilson? Razz

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Hinton Heating
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 11:25 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Before you call anyone, you should be able to test the voltage to the syncron motor within the valve.

Its a 240v motor so go careful! Set the heating to on (both programmer & wall stat)

First test the supply wire to the 3 port valve, (at the wiring center). The white one should be live (240v)

Next test the voltage across the syncron motor, I'm guessing you'll find 240(ish) volts going into the motor, but no movement.

You should easily be able to replace the motor, by itself.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/replacment-syncron-motor-for-zone-and-divertor-valves_W0QQitemZ260095946451QQihZ016QQcategoryZ3191QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

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