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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2018 7:40 pm 
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Hi all,

10 years ago I decorated our previous house. I drained down the CH and removed the rad in each room and fitted the rad back on at then end of each day. After a few days I had the rooms decorated and re-filled the CH system via the filling loop and added inhibitor via the towel rail.

This time, we live in a bigger house and the plasterers will be here for 8-10 days. Excuse my naivety, but what is needed to keep the hot water on after I have drained down the CH system and removed all the rads? We have an oil fired Firebird combi boiler (fitted last month) by an OFTEC installer.

The Mrs does not want to be without hot water during the time is takes to have the house professionally plastered and then time on top of that while I paint the walls.

Thanks for your help! :-)
Martin.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 9:33 pm 
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Anyone?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 9:37 pm 
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I can only think you'd have to repressurise the boiler with rads off (all valves closed).

That should allow hot water ok.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:04 am 
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Best call the manufacturer for advice.

Not all boilers can be used in this set up and I know nothing about these boilers or indeed oil boilers generally.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 9:54 am 
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Thanks for the responses. I have a feeling (though I can't be sure unless I call) that ringing Firebird will just direct me to my OFTEC installer.

Hopefully someone else might have an idea...

Thanks again both.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 10:25 am 
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I was going to suggest you put a temporary loop in the CH system close to the boiler, just in-case and to keep the internals from drying out.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 1:17 pm 
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Hmmm, might be "above my pay grade" that - but thanks for the suggestion.

For those that don't work on oil boilers - is there a simple DIY solution for gas combi boilers? I will apply the solution to my oil boiler. Surely many have plastered, painted and removed the rads. And for those that have been down this path, I wonder if there is a simple solution to keep the hot water on while the rads are off for a 3 or 4 weeks...


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 3:24 pm 
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Leave one rad on?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 4:11 pm 
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Yes - I'll leave the towel rads in as there is no plastering to be done in those rooms.

It seems that all I need to do is turn the lockshield clockwise until it's off (and count the number of turns so the CH system is still balanced when I refit).

I then turn the TRV to 0. Hopefully that should do it. There does seem to be some debate as to whether the TRV will then be off and stay off depending on weather conditions.

Certainly when I open the bleed valve to empty the radiator I will make sure that the flow of water from the valve (if there is any) stops soon after bleeding - otherwise one of the valves hasn't shut off completely!

If I've got this wrong - please pipe up - see what I did there! :-)

Thanks again all.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 4:16 pm 
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Just to add - surely setting the TRV to zero will turn the valve off and it well stay that way for a few weeks (for plastering and painting) ... yes?

The CH will still be pressurised and I will get hot water ... if I've understood the situation ... ?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 4:24 pm 
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I am NOT a heating engineer, I would say leave towel the rad open. When you turn off a hot tap sometimes (Might be all the time) the boiler needs to "dump" the hot water so it sends it to the rads, I was always under the impression one rad (Usually in the bathroom) should never have a TRV.
Our bathroom rad has no TRV (The others do) and sometimes when the rads are off the bathroom one does get hot if say just using the shower

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Which is correct? Metre or Meter? Click the link to find out more.

Working on anything electrical? have you got a multi meter? why not? Would you hit a nail with a shoe?

If gloom had a voice, it would be me. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 4:26 pm 
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Hmmm ... just seen these blanking caps on screwfix: https://www.screwfix.com/p/blank-nut-x/51939

Looking that the Honeywell site, I can't see a contact number/email/form: https://www.honeywelluk.com/products/Valves/Thermostatic-Radiator-Valve/

So now I'm wondering if I need to cap off the TRV and if so what size? 1/2", 3/4" ... ?

Oh heck! :angryfire:


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 11:16 am 
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Just to conclude this thread.

Rads removed, TRVs capped with these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/blank-nut-x/51939

One of the TRVs was leaking a little when the rad was removed - but capped off and all is good.

Managed to sheer off one of the air vents off the rad (the squared end) with the bleed key - but it appears that replacements can be ordered.

Pressure dropped to below one bar. Re-pressurised via filling loop and now all is good. Rads are off and hot water is working fine.

I will need to be careful that I don't bosh the 10 mm microbore when I refit the rads!

Thanks to all those who chipped in.



For this message the author Doc M has received gratitude : Ktuludays
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