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 Post subject: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 3:48 pm 
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Hi,

Having been out of action over the last month due to a nasty flare up of dermatitis/eczema in both my legs I'm now clear of this and raring to get stuck into a project once again. Hopefully when I see the nurse tomorrow my blood pressure will be OK but I feel a project coming on.

Last year whilst Bron and I still owned the Fabia Monte Carlo this was always garaged so I was limited to the size of kit I could buy. I sold my big heavy cast iron Startrite combination woodworking machine and bought an American Shopsmith combination woodworking machine this being much lighter than the Startrite and only occupying the space of a cycle. I intended to keep the SS so I fully refurbished the headstock replacing the bearings including the motor bearings so it's now running very sweetly indeed.

Shortly after this we exchanged the Monte and bought the new Yeti but now I let the Yeti sleep out freeing up the entire garage which I've been remodelling into a full time workshop until the dermatitis kicked in. I also bought a very nice DeWalt radial arm saw model DW8001 which I've had in bits and replaced the bearings; this RAS is now centre piece in the new layout allowing me to cross cut timber up to 20' in length which is truly delightful.

I already have an industrial floor standing drill press and two nice woodturning lathes so all I now use the SS for is ripping and this is proving troublesome. Because the SS saw table is mounted above the lathe the table is proving too high for comfort; yes the saw is OK and a big bonus is that it can handle full sized sheet material but all I now need is a decent circular saw bench then I can sell the SS.

I plan to design and make my own circular saw/moulding bench to suit my needs; I don't want a toy; I want a saw bench capable of some serious work and I intend to install a single phase 3kw (4hp) 2 pole motor; cap start/cap run to power a 12" dia blade. I very seldom do any angle ripping so my new saw bench will only have rise and fall; if ever I do need to do any angled cuts I can easily rig up a false table as a guide. I've owned a suitable heavy duty saw spindle for many years in fact years ago I used this when I made a moulding machine; at the moment I'm unable to find the outer flange but I will turn a new cast iron flange on the lathe as a last resort. The spindle is 1.25" dia for the blade. I still have the moulding head so I can have two machines in one; the moulding head running at around 2,850rpm is a bit slow but previously at this speed it's produced excellent work for me simply by putting the timber through a bit slower. A DOL (Direct on line) starter will be added to afford motor overload protection and no volt release also for my personal safety I'll have a look to see if I have a spare emergency stop station which I'll include. Double SPZ pulleys and belts will provide the drive in fact I might increase the pulley size dia on the motor because I think the tipped saw blades can be run up to 4,500 rpm; this would then give a better speed for the moulding head.

So far all this is just floating around in my head as to general design but yesterday I took the first step and ordered plenty of black MS angle iron and flat bar from K Steels here in Huddersfield. As usual though for me I have to fight tooth and nail to make positive progress in anything I attempt to do. I emailed K Steels for a quote and received a quick reply which was acceptable; then my computer died having no Internet access so I couldn't reply to the email; no problem because Bron and I drove over to K Steels; ordered the steel and paid for it; sometimes the old fashioned ways are the best. I was amazed when the steel arrived at 8:30 this morning; excellent price with top class service; well done K Steels. Over the years I've tended to use lots of offcuts whether steel or timber obtaining these from a number of places but unfortunately lots of these places no longer exist and the last sheet metal place I used to obtain my black steel from has disappeared and the building is no longer there so I'm using mostly new steel on this project but even so the price of the new steel is very reasonable because I'm buying directly from where local industry buys; the prices might surprise you and I don't mind sharing the information; the steel I've just bought is;

2 off 6.0 m-6.3 m Black angle MS 40 x 40 x 3mm £20.

1 off 4.0 m-4.3 m Black MS flat 50 x 3mm £6.00

1 off 6.6 m-6.3 m Black MS flat 50 x 5mm. £10.00

Total cost of order a very reasonable £43.20.

My background is mechanical engineering so a project like this won't tax me too much and I don't need a dimensioned drawing to work from just making it up as I go along to suit whatever I have to hand. So far only a few dimensions are known; the total height is to be 31.5" this then allows the bench to double up as an out-feed table; the motor 4hp. the blade bore 1.25" dia and the blade dia 12". This is enough for me to work from. It will make a change having long lengths of steel to play with; obtaining the motor is rather a joke; I must be one of very few guys to have physically handled hundreds of thousands of electric motors of all sizes from ones I could lift easily with one hand up to the giants where an overhead crane or fork truck was needed to move them around; whilst at work all I had to do was to ask for a motor and I would be given one on the understanding I wouldn't sell it. I also had access to the scrap bins and any size of metal also absolutely any motor spare but now 16 years after retiring I'm chasing a motor; I would prefer second hand but I'll buy new through eBay if I get stuck. I don't mind spending around £250 in order to get a 4hp saw bench plus I find such projects to be worth much more than mere money because they keep me active and interested.

I'm not in a hurry to complete this project; fingers crossed I'll be clear of the surgery and doctors tomorrow then I can get stuck in. I'm so used to this kind of work I take it for granted but I must stress that I'm only adding my story for interest and anyone attempting to copy in part or whole does so entirely at their own risk because these kinds of project can inflict serious injuries or even be fatal when it comes to the electrical work.

A few pictures just to get started and I'll add to the story as the work progresses. I made an hinged stand for my 9" angle grinder and this grinder will be used to cut most of the metal saving tiring my arms out using an hack-saw. I'll be welding but set screws/washers/nuts could be used if welding isn't available these only requiring holes to be drilled. lets se how it progresses?

Kind regards, Col.

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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 5:37 pm 
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Hi Col, another interesting read and I look forward to following the project :thumbright: BTW, I love the homemade chop saw :wink:

SN :occasion5:



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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 9:44 am 
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Hi,

Many thanks SN for your encouragement. Much appreciated. :salute:

The motor is now sorted out; I've just bought this and its due to arrive next Monday;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201740661608?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

It's pointless hanging on in case a second hand motor appears because with my luck it just won't happen; now I've bought a brand new motor lots of suitable motors will suddenly pop up. I had considered buying a 3 phase 3 kw motor and adding a pair of capacitors; one capacitor to give the phase shift for the third phase the second capacitor as a starting capacitor; I've done this a number of times previously; it allows a 3 phase motor to be run from a single phase supply but the motor must be one that can be connected in "Delta". I decided to take the easy route for a change; I'm unsure if I have an 18A DOL starter to hand but if not I'll buy one. At this rate I'll end up with everything new on this saw bench. :scratch:

Kind regards, Col.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 5:14 pm 
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Hi,

A quick update. I've bought a new DOL starter to save messing around; both motor and starter should arrive next Monday. I hope the link opens but if not the 17A to 25A starter has cost £31.99 inc P&P. I paid the bit extra for heavier duty.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331229135855?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=540511556671&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Kind regards, Col.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 12:19 am 
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MANY thanks, Col.

As always I've learnt much from your write-up, both directly and via Google's search facilities leading me to explanations of, for example, DoL starters.
Ain't life exciting - there's SO much to learn every day, and in the case of this Forum, of direct and almost immediate application .... :thumbleft: .... :thumbright:

1) What were the reasons you chose that particular motor please, Col?

2) There is a very busy 'rewinder' and elec motor fettler near me up at Scarlet Heights, not that far from you, Col. I've used their services on a few occasions over the years and always found them to be top notch. They often have re-furbished motors for sale.
As a rough idea - what sort of price would I expect to pay for a 2nd hand version of the type of motor you've bought, Col? Or even a general guide on the discount for 2nd hand versus new. I realize that might be asking how long is a piece of string.
:dunno:



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 11:46 am 
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Hi,

Many thanks AAA.

Good questions and very relevant to this project thanks for asking. I'm used to big heavy industrial machinery; this machinery is always on top of its job and built to last generations. The modern tinny machines bristling with endless guards and splattered with warning signs and safety stickers put me on edge. I was taught as an apprentice over 50 years ago that to poke a machine in motion with a finger would result in the loss of the finger. These days complete novices can and do buy quite powerful tools; things like chainsaws in a novices hands is dangerous but where does such a novice gain experience of such tools other than to suck it and see. Common sense should kick in but many novices find themselves in A&E; the old saying of "If it feels wrong don't do it" really must be grasped; I've got many years experience behind me with machinery and the risks I take I know the consequences so if something does let go I'm not in the firing line.

I'm not trying to preach about H&S but the above does relate to my choices in this project. Trying to force a machine to do any job is dangerous; the operator could be injured and the machine destroyed so I want a machine that will do what I want of it hence I opted for such a big motor at 4hp. Coupled to a 12" dia tipped blade it's highly unlikely this saw once made will ever bog down even whilst ripping dense hardwood. I must add that I would never encourage any novice to even switch on a machine such as this until the novice has gained experience especially in the understanding of how such a machine can react regarding kick back; I WILL DEFINITELY BE ADDING A RIVING KNIFE. My toes curl when I see so many Americans on YouTube videos using saw benches ripping without riving knife installed; a crown guard too is desirable for safety. Ripping timber as the timber exits the blade it will tend to close on the cut (kerf) nipping the blade which is now running uphill taking the timber with it then it slams the timber forward at tremendous speed and considerable force; no one is quick enough to step to one side so is struck by the timber which by now is no longer merely timber its a projectile; I always stand to one side just in case even though I run with a riving knife installed; the riving knife if correct for the blade and installed correctly should virtually eliminate kick backs but never ever rely on this.

My last saw bench was part of my big Startrite combination woodworking machine; this machine was fitted with three 3hp 3 phase motors and I junked the mechanical power feed to the thicknesser adding a single phase motor plus chain drive so this Startrite had four motors installed. With a bit of rewiring and motor connections swapped over I ran the Startrite directly from our 240V single phase supply; the motors I connected in Delta. I could select each function via a rotary control and having it now connected in this way the Startrite served me well for 16 years; although the three motors were rated at 3hp because of the way they were now connected they ran on reduced power which was never a problem unless I really started to push the motor; ripping thick oak at full 3" depth would bog the motor down so I used to rip in two passes because I'll never abuse any of my machines.

With a single phase 240V 2850rpm capacitor start capacitor run motor installed connected to the workshop 32A mains supply this motor will give full power so will need treating with utmost respect; I'll also most likely gear up the spindle speed by choice of pulleys to give higher rpm on the blade this in turn will give a better speed should I ever need to install the Whitehill moulding head. The motor I've chosen is rated as S1 so it can be run continuously also it is water/dust proof. To answer the question then I believe a 4hp motor will be on top of any work I'll be putting through this saw bench without the motor bogging down. I would at this point also advise the fitting of a suitable DOL starter which not only prevents the motor restarting on its own after say a power cut but it will also protect the motor regarding overload tripping the contacts before the motor windings burn out. I'll check the safe rpm of the blade before deciding what speed to adopt but I'm also aware of strange things happening when it comes to machinery; this saw bench is simply a prototype it being a one off so is there a speed of the saw blade which will deafen me by emitting an ear piercing whistle? I can only build the saw bench then find out?

Thanks also AAA for the motor re-winder tip located at Scarlet Heights; strangely I've never heard of Scarlet Heights previously. Whilst working at Brook Motors Brooks used "Hall Rewinds" located within a minutes walk at the bottom of Chapel Hill although I've never had cause to use their rewinding services; this branch of Halls closed a few years ago. Unless I had a special motor I wouldn't bother with rewinding I'd simply buy a replacement motor. New motor prices are found easily enough on the Internet but second hand motors is a real lottery. I didn't even bother contacting Brooks for the price of one of their motors because I know even with my "Works discount" Brook Motors were still expensive which is a shame because I would have preferred to use a top quality Brook motor. Obviously eBay is the first place to search for a suitable second hand electric motor and there are many to be found. In this instance yes there are many hundreds of motors on eBay and I've also checked Gumtree and eBid bid as I stated earlier because I want a motor of a certain size such motors are now extinct until I've bought a new motor then suddenly there will be a wide choice of such motors pop up; just typical of my bad luck. As to pricing of motors; yes its like saying how long is a length of string. Many times I've bought items through eBay very cheaply indeed because a good time to buy is mid week during the day when the auction ends; lots of eBayer's will be at work so bidding could be light ending up with a genuine bargain; I once bought an Evershed & Vignoles 1,000V Megger for 50p (drat the spell checker which is driving me mad). There are many variables when buying a second hand motor; how old is the motor; if its a Brook then I can usually distinguish from the old style cast in feet to the more modern "multi-mount" where the feet can be re-positioned; there are many designs of motor. Look at the overall condition; is the paintwork good; are the cooling fins broken; are the T box and fan cover in good condition; does the motor rotate smoothly; (difficult to establish if buying unseen). are the specifications as needed to speed; output; mounting; voltage etc? It's very easy to trip up whilst viewing a motor on eBay to miss just one important point such as if a motor is 2 pole or 4 pole. If its an old motor the shaft dia might be imperial whereas most modern motors are now metric but again take absolutely nothing for granted. Take a more common 3hp motor of which there are many for sale on eBay; starting price 99p; no one knows how much such a motor will top out at; all it takes is two bidders to go head to head and then they lose track of worth? On one hand such a motor can be had for the 99p if at that time there are no more bidders but perhaps the motor could top out at £70. Motors vary a great deal in price from new; a 3hp for example will be available in lots of specifications; foot; D flange; C flange; pad mounting etc; 2; 4; 6 & 8 pole are common (speed) there are also motors wound with special speeds; standard motors in aluminium or cast iron; metal or plastic t boxes and fan covers; brake motors; motors installed with extras such as heaters; it really does pay to do homework before buying a second hand motor; I have a motor in stock which looks like a standard motor but when I removed the T box lid there was a relay staring at me; I've never tried to sort this motor out but it shows how different motors can be. I could go on forever regarding buying motors because its such a big subject with so many variations.

I'd like to make it perfectly clear that I've never been involved with design or even been on the production lines at Brook Motors; I'm not even qualified in electrical work in fact it could prove lethal because I'm hopelessly colour blind; I've learnt by trial and error over the years on a need to know basis. at Brook I was in charge of No5 Despatch; No6 Export packing and the timber department; my only job was to get rid of completed motors as fast as possible. Having said this I am extremely careful to adhere to safety and if I don't know I'll never risk anything when it comes to electricity; I've no problems connecting motors and I've even installed my own 3 phase 415V into the garage; I'll never put myself or anyone else at risk.

At work we had mostly Wadkin machinery; I'm unsure what the big Wadkin cast iron saw bench was rated at regarding power but it was big and on 3 phase so not a machine to approach lightly; when I was put in charge of the timber department I clamped down on employees wandering in to cut a bit of timber; I arranged an instructor to come on site and give basic training on all the machines to anyone who would be using them this even included the full time staff working on the machines including myself; I ensured my back was covered also that the company complied regarding safe working practices then I did a risk assessment on each machine.

Sorry to ramble on leaning so heavily towards safety but I'm aware in designing and making this saw bench I'm creating a monster which is capable of inflicting serious injury which I wish to avoid at all costs. This will be my own machine and I'll be the only operator; this saw bench will be illegal in any company because it will not comply to current safety regulations regarding guarding and motor braking but in my own workshop I'm not breaking any law/s.

I'm now aware of "Smart meters". I've not yet looked into this but I view such meters with a lot of suspicion. This new saw on 4hp will not be soft start so will rapidly come up to full speed imposing a sudden surge on the 240V mains supply; will a Smart Meter detect such things? I simply don't know; you electrical experts could help out here please adding information?

Hopefully I'll end up with a bespoke saw bench and hope I can show that useful machinery can be made from scratch in a home workshop; once I get cracking I'll then stick with it to completion.

I couldn't agree with you more AAA; yes life is very exciting especially for those with a willingness to break free of their personal comfort zone to try something new; I'm not really sticking my neck out with adding the story of this saw bench on an open forum because I'm confident having made machines previously but I do try lots of different things such as my time restoring vintage radios; what I don't know I'll research but I like new challenges to keep my head and hands busy. Few will want to go to this amount of time and trouble to make their own saw bench but I hope to show it can be done. :thumbleft:

Kind regards, Col.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 12:42 pm 
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Col.

I'm the keyboard equivalent of being almost speechless at the generosity of your reply.

I'm 'in the middle' of digging out and replacing some old, very smelly, and badly cracked drain pipes (Circa 1920s) so will sit at leisure, re-read, and inwardly digest, your words of wisdom and insight later this evening.

... :thumbleft: ..... :thumbright:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 4:40 pm 
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Hi,

Thanks AAA; once I start a project and add it to a forum I like to be as comprehensive as possible; anyway sitting here at the keyboard is preferable to sitting in front of the TV watching the rubbish shown these days which would offend pond life.

I expected the new 3kw motor to arrive next Monday but it arrived at dinner time today in excellent condition due to being double boxed; I've just unpacked the motor but not yet run it but I will run it on the bench before even installing it into the new saw bench. This motor is heavy and feels robust but I notice the centrifugal switch can be seen through the fan cover which surprises me; the switch is located directly behind the fan; this isn't a major problem in fact access to this switch is very easy but my small concern is one of fire risk; this motor will be run in a dusty environment and as the switch contacts break there might be a small spark? I'll ensure a dust extraction chute is installed; I'm very keen when it comes to safety and few would even know about these switches. This centrifugal switch merely puts the start capacitor online until the motor comes up to speed then the switch contacts open disconnecting the start capacitor; I know a relay can be wired in to do this switching but I've never attempted this.

I think once I connect this motor to the mains and switch on Sellafield will go straight on overtime. :lol: :lol: :lol: The bit of paperwork supplied with this motor is for "Three phase asynchronous motor instruction manual" the wording is quaint to say the least. This motor is single phase. I have removed the "T" box cover and there is as expected a wiring diagram attached to the inside of the lid which is standard practice; this wiring diagram is very basic indeed but does indicate how to arrange the links for either forward or reverse. Live will go to U1; Neutral to U2 and Earth to the motor body; the Earth connection is most important. I'll confirm all is well once I've run the motor. The capacitors are 300uF 250VAC and 60uF 450VAC the larger is the start capacitor. Other motors could well have different numbers and letters for connection. The nameplate shows TEC; I'd have preferred it to show Brook but then this would have cost considerably more.

Extreme care is needed when playing around with this kind of motor because capacitors can remain live even if the supply is isolated; any capacitor must be fully discharged before handling and it pays to discharge a couple of times to be on the safe side; I wouldn't want to come into personal contact with a fully charged 300uF 450VAC capacitor; ENSURE MAINS SUPPLY IS ISOLATED BEFORE DOING ANY WORK ON MOTORS.

So far so good and I'll soon have most of the items I need for this project and I've only just started. :thumbleft:

Good luck with your drain job AAA; it will be an horrible job given the current weather conditions; I did ours a few years ago and once was enough. :cb

Reading my posts is best done at bedtime because they are much better than Horlicks. :lol:

Kind regards, Col.

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Thanks again, Col

1)
Quote:
Reading my posts is best done at bedtime because they are much better than Horlicks

Such modesty in one so young :-)

2)
Quote:
Extreme care is needed when playing around with this kind of motor because capacitors can remain live even if the supply is isolated; any capacitor must be fully discharged before handling and it pays to discharge a couple of times to be on the safe side; I wouldn't want to come into personal contact with a fully charged 300uF 450VAC capacitor; ENSURE MAINS SUPPLY IS ISOLATED BEFORE DOING ANY WORK ON MOTORS.

What advice / procedures to ensure that capacitors ARE fully discharged, please?


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Hi,

You're welcome AAA and thanks for asking.

I've fully restored over 100 vintage radio sets and most of these were mains sets having electrolytic capacitors installed being smoothing and reservoir capacitors usually between 8uF and 32uF but high voltage; because these old sets hadn't been run for many years they had numerous faults so at first power up I took it for granted that the capacitors would remain fully charged once the power was switched off so at first I carefully used a well insulated screwdriver to bridge the capacitor terminals adding a direct short circuit; careful in that at no time did I touch anything other than with the screwdriver blade and if the capacitor was charged there would be a spark; the size of the spark in relation to the capacitor value; this method definitely works but isn't good for the capacitor. As I gained more experience I found I could easily make my own capacitor discharging tool costing very little in fact I had the components to hand. This video has faults regarding safety but it does show very well the direct shorting method and also how to make a capacitor discharging tool actually very much like the discharging tool I used but I believe I made mine using something like an 100 Ohms (100R) resistor at 6W (Watts) which was ample for my needs but I stress I'm no electrician so care is needed to ensure safety. DISCHARGING CAPACITORS MUST ONLY BE CARRIED OUT WHILST THE CAPACITOR IS ISOLATED FROM THE SUPPLY.



I would never ever handle any transformer the way this guy on the video is handling his transformer whilst it is powered up; familiarity breeds contempt and getting away playing around with a small transformer without injury how long before a larger transformer is used; the largest transformer I wound was for 415V 3 phase at 7.5kw so do not take any chances at all with electricity; you can't see it (I could using an oscilloscope) but you'll certainly feel it and it might be the last thing you ever do feel.

A single capacitor fully charged is bad news but I used to phase balance my 3 phase machines to my home wound transformer; below is a picture of the capacitor bank used to phase balance my big bandsaw; such work is highly dangerous. Please play safely.

Do not even touch the body of a capacitor if the capacitor is fully charged in fact just don't touch the capacitor at all until it's known to be fully discharged and this can be checked by taking a voltage reading. Capacitors are bad news when fully charged so I wouldn't encourage anyone to tamper with any capacitor so I think I've said enough as I don't want anyone to get hurt. I'm now used to working with electricity but I don't have a single qualification other than common sense coupled with a strong desire for survival. :salute:


Kind regards, Col.

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Playing with capacitors can be dangerous, playing with transformers can be dangerous but using that Dremel that close to his thumb.... :shock:

Enjoying the write up Col, and hope it the motor is ok when you bench test it :thumbright:

SN :occasion5:



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Thanks Colin another great read ,interesting that you mention wadkin machinery , as it's been a sad couple of weeks in my home town as the wadkin old factory has been demolished it shut down in 2001 and was left to ruin. Although some ex employees set up again and now operate in Nottingham I believe
https://www.28dayslater.co.uk/wadkin-ltd-woodworking-machinery-leicester-may-2014.t90167



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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 11:12 am 
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I looked through those haunting pictures on your link TWG and I found it very sad wandering through the deserted building. You could sense the ghost of times past and all the things that must have gone on there over the years. Although the name Wadkin survives under new owners Dalton it makes you wonder how much of the Wadkin design, quality and ethos survives in the new company.

DWD



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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 12:15 pm 
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Hi,

Thanks SN; I agree with your comments regarding the guy using the Dremel in such a way it could inflict personal injury; if he was unfortunate enough to slash his thumb he would learn an hard lesson but when it comes to electricity especially mains electricity there is seldom a second chance because electricity doesn't take prisoners hence I'm trying to be careful in what I add to this thread regarding my electrical activities because I don't want anyone to be electrocuted but hopefully my notes will be of some use. The main theme of this thread is intended to demonstrate that really heavy duty machinery can be constructed in a home workshop then the machines will give many years trouble free service. Generally I use odds and ends I have to hand saving a small fortune but on this project I thought I'd push the boat out and spend a few quid. I could have bought a second hand motor and angle iron is readily available being extremely cheap if bought from my favourite supplier our local scrap yard where the price is based per ton whatever the metal is I buy and there is a lot of angle iron in a ton. It will be interesting to see what roughly the cost is once this saw is completed? Thanks also for your good wishes and kind comments; I might actually run into a problem when I try to power the motor because the garage consumer unit I think is only rated at 16A so the motor might trip the breaker but I'll know when I try. I've already bought a 16 way metal clad brand new consumer unit which I intend to install once the weather improves and I can knock the central heating off; I've bought two 32A "D" type MCB's and I'll be running heavier circuits into the garage just to power up my big welder and this new saw bench; I'll get there eventually but the main thing of course is safety.

Thanks Thewindowguy for your kind comments and also for adding the Wadkin link which as DWD says is very saddening indeed. During my 24 years at Brook Motors I must have handled thousands of motors bought by Wadkin; not only standard motors but specials like routers and "LC" (Low center) these for saws; it was common to load big phase changers these were just like two motors connected shaft to shaft; Brook Motors are expensive at the best of times but I think the prices of the LC and the changers would give nightmares. I knew Wadkin was struggling with cash flow as many big companies also had problems including Brooks; Brooks delivered twice weekly to Wadkin and in quantity; I well remember my dealings with Nick Stone at Wadkin (Buyer) on one occasion I had been storing ten pallets of motors awaiting "Precise" delivery date; I was glad to finally see the back of these motors freeing up a lot of valuable floor space; I was dismayed though when the motors were returned then Wadkin started picking at them; the pallets were now stored in the garage at Brooks meaning access was only by fork truck; the number of times I had to search through the pallets as the motors were wanted; with over 1,000 motors per day whistling through Despatch this sort of thing was a real nuisance; Nick and I got on well though and tried our best to help each other; I still have two very old Wadkin machinery manuals kindly given to me by Nick. Brook Motors are now made abroad and shipped in the headquarters Empress Works now only being a small distribution center which is heartbreaking but I could see it happening with shop-floor and management not being in harmony so it self destructed.

Our manufacturing industry is an endangered species being rapidly replaced by local supermarkets and fast food outlets; it takes a brave person these days to try to start a business here in the UK because there is absolutely zero incentive; it pays better to be bone idle on benefits even if the benefit is capped at £26,000 ( Disabled deserve lots of help and I'll never begrudge them any benefit) Many old skills are simply disappearing as the older generation die taking their skills along with them; heavy engineering; mills; coal mining; steel making etc what's left other than dinosaurs such as I who still potter around in home workshops getting our hands dirty whilst still using our head?

I've attended Rufforth Auto Jumble this morning which I always enjoy and I met up with my chum David so we had a nice wander around; after all the recent rain the car park was a quagmire with puddles and mud but I still enjoyed the morning. How wonderful to be able to buy a brand new 1/2" reamer for a miserly £2; just one of many items I bought. Lots of this stuff will have come from companies that have ceased trading so eventually even this supply will dry up so I'm buying whilst I still can. The UK is a lovely place but badly run.

So far this is more of a story than a project but it all adds to the interest adding my own background showing what's involved at each stage with explanations as to why I do things a certain way; there are always a number of ways to do something but I just go with whatever suits at the time.

A parcel has just arrived and it looks like the new starter so I can now make some positive progress; I'll keep posting as the project unfolds.

Kind regards, Col.

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SOME PEOPLE ARE SO POOR ALL THEY HAVE IS MONEY.



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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 3:27 pm 
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On the matter of "cash flow" Col, even in the hay-days of the early 1970s when the plastics business was starting to take off, the # of 'my' customers who went to the wall because of cash-flow problems was frightening.
Many a time I had to take a late night round trip to drop off a 'special' delivery to keep the injectors running when our Finance and Credit Control had clamped down hard demanding Cash Before Delivery, and I mean CASH.
It was a 'risk', but the +ves far outweighed the 'runners'. When the Coy's turn-round did come, they repaid the favour with the bulk of their orders coming 'my' way.
The ones I did avoid were those who whilst claiming poverty sported new Jensen Interceptors in their car park.
Spivs.


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