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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 4:35 pm 
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Hi,

I've managed a couple of hours working on the saw and tidying up this afternoon. The new Trend blade arrived at dinnertime which pleased me. This blade had a 30mm bore but the saw spindle is 1.250" dia so I spent a while accurately marking then hand filing the blade bore to correct size. The spindle also has a location pin to prevent the blade spinning within the collars so I needed to add an 1/2" dia hole in the blade to accept this pin as seen in the pictures; accuracy pays in marking out and saves lots of filing so the hole was bang on. I use a black permanent marker pen to colour the area where I need to scribe measurements; I have a bottle of engineers blue somewhere but seldom use these days. The blade is now fully installed and I've aligned the pulleys so once the two new drive belts arrive and are installed the saw can be run under power for the first time.

With the blade installed I find the cutting depth is just under 4" and plan to have a ripping width of 18" which is far superior to the 8" ripping width of my previous Startrite combination woodworker machine saw. Once I'm satisfied the saw is running correctly then I can concentrate on fitting a pair of wheels to make the saw bench mobile; the table top will need sorting out as will a sturdy rip fence but all the hard work is now completed. :thumbleft:

Kind regards, Col.

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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 9:43 pm 
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Hi,

Yesterday didn't quite go to plan; I intended upgrading the "B" type 32A mcb which keeps tripping when I power up my oil cooled welder or this 3kw motor; I turned the power off at the mains then removed the consumer box cover; I never take anything for granted when it comes to playing with electricity so a double check with the DMM said I was OK to touch. I had previously bought three mcb's; two are "D" type the third "C" type all at 32A. Not one of them would fit into the consumer unit which surprised me but true to my usual luck; not to be beaten though I rewired the 32A socket so now its got its own dedicated 32A mcb but still a "B" type. I also upgraded the wire from the 2.5mm I had it connected into the back of a 13A socket with now its wired with 6mm into the mcb so I'm happier about this. The three mcb's however fit into the new 16 way consumer unit I bought but still need to install. I don't recommend any novice to play around with mains electricity.

I've been awaiting the drive belts to arrive and they were due either yesterday or today but again with my luck the way it is they are still not with me so I thought I'd have a go at adding a pair of wheels today in order to move the saw bench around. I had spent a lot of time browsing YouTube videos for inspiration as to how to fit the wheels but without success; all the wheels/castors on YouTube appeared to be wooden mounted with common type butt hinges but I wanted my wheels to retract automatically so I had a challenge ahead of me. I did a few rough sketches knowing what I was after and determined pivot points for the linkages; I have plenty of new steel so set about cutting the lengths of steel using the hacksaw; after lots of drilling and filing to removed sharp edges I finally had the wheels in place and working at 5 o'clock having spent the day on it.

In order to position the wheels in relation to the desired lift I blocked up the rear of the saw leaving 1/2" gap between the leg bottoms and the floor; I installed the wheel sections first then worked from these for measurements; I used box section steel for the two handles; to move the saw all I now have to do is to grasp the two handles one in each hand wheelbarrow fashion and as I lift the handles this automatically lowers the wheels; the handles travel is arrested by a pair of stops so by taking a lot of time to work it all out the handles abut the stops allowing the front of the saw to lift whilst lowering the wheels lifting the saw clear of the floor; I hadn't a clue if the idea would work but it does; the 1/2" needs increasing so tomorrow I'll drill two more holes to allow 1.5" lift; the garage floor isn't perfectly level but this isn't a problem and is easily overcome.

I hope the drive belts arrive tomorrow because I'm keen to hear this saw sing to me after all the hard graft; The pictures below show the linkages and I'll add more tomorrow because in my delight I forgot to take a picture of the handle stops and these are very important to the working of this design. I love trying new ideas out; once the saw is wheeled into position the handles simply drop out of the way; so easy once known but it took a lot of thought to work the linkage design out.

Kind regards, Col.

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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 11:32 pm 
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Is that nice long arbor ready for a stacked dado head cutter Colin???

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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 9:02 am 
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Hi,

Thanks for asking DWD; yes not only a dado head but moulding heads; years ago I used this heavy duty spindle for a home made moulding machine using the highly dangerous Whitehill blocks which I still have and hope to use in this saw bench making the saw a dual purpose machine; this is why I've increased the saw blade speed to around 4,500 rpm; I used to run the Whitehill blocks at 6,000 rpm but running them now at 4,500 rpm I'll just slow the feed a bit which should give a nice finish.

I need to look at what steel sheet I have in stock then I can decide the saw table top design; it's unlikely I've got a large enough piece of steel but I'll add the details as they unfold; I'm still making it up as I go along. I'll add an insert to the blade area making it large enough to accommodate blades and moulding blocks also I need to add dust extraction plus a fence; lots of little jobs still to do but it's proving to be a most enjoyable project keeping my head and hands busy. I'm still troubled with dermatitis/eczema which flared up quite badly and this time it covered my whole back; I've applied powerful ointment to my legs which has sorted my legs out but my back although a lot better is still annoying with constant itching; I'm better being busy to take my mind off it or it would really get me down.

Time I wandered into the workshop on this beautiful sunny morning. :huray:

Kind regards, Col.

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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 9:36 am 
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:lol: I thought I was brave taking the riving knife and blade guard off my table saw. I would not have the courage to have moulding blocks flying around :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 7:15 pm 
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Hi,

Thanks DWD; I hope you only removed the riving knife to allow rebating or trenching etc; ripping without riving knife installed is highly dangerous; the Americans like to live dangerously from what I see of them using their saw benches without riving knife installed; my previous Startrite saw bench was never run by me without riving knife or crown guard installed unless I was doing cuts where their removal was necessary. I hope I'm not preaching but lots of novices read these posts. :thumbleft:

I knew if I stuck with it I would end up with a working saw bench. I had a look at my metal stock and pulled out a sheet of 4mm thick mild steel which was oversize in length but perfect in width. A sheet metal cutting guillotine would have been handy but not having one I reverted to using the jigsaw against a wooden guide then I fettled the sharp edges using a file. The steel was rusty so I ran over it with my Bosch random orbit sander kicking up a lot of dust; I was wearing my dust mask. This has now been secured to the saw frame using countersunk set screws and nuts. I now have a problem in that I don't have another piece of 4mm steel for the other side of the blade but having got thus far I'll sort it out one way or another. I've included a picture of the handle "stop" both handles have one of these stops arresting the upward movement of the handle whilst the handle has lowered the wheels lifting the saw from the floor allowing the saw to be wheeled around; this will be handy because when not in use I can move the saw out of the way.

I've been expecting the two drive belts to arrive since Wednesday but I'm still waiting. It's been a beautiful day today so after dinner I washed and dried the Yeti making the most of this rare warm sunny weather. With the Yeti now gleaming in the sun I wandered back into the garage feeling rather let down about the delay in receiving the drive belts so I pulled out my selection of drive belts and found an "A" section of the right length; the pulley's are SPZ so this "A" section doesn't seat correctly but good enough to spin the blade up for the first time.

I plugged the saw into the 32A socket and after double checking everything was secure and that the blade was rotating without fouling anything I stood to one side and pressed the starter button; boy this saw certainly doesn't have a soft start; it rapidly came up to full speed making quite a bit of noise declaring it was now alive; ear protection is a must but the saw sounds purposeful which it should powered by 4hp. I didn't run the saw for long because I knew the single incorrect section drive belt would quickly heat up which it did.

This has been an interesting project for me and its nice to know I can still do such work from design to a working machine which always gives me such a buzz.

Just finishing touches still to do but I've now got the saw under power and I'll easily install the new drive belts assuming they will ever arrive.

There are lots of home made saw benches on YouTube but not one like this with this sized motor installed.

I think I've spent as much time writing the story and taking pictures as I've spent in making this saw bench. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Kind regards, Col.

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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 7:42 pm 
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Looking good Col!



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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2017 8:04 pm 
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Hi,

Thanks Rorschach. Two days together of wonderful warm sunshine; what's going on? I spent this morning working on the saw bench; I've started to make the fence and the drive belts finally arrived so I've now installed them; I doubt these belts will slip whatever I put through the saw.

After dinner it was too nice to be in the workshop I wanted some of this rare sunshine so pulled my light sabre (pressure washer) out of the shed and spent all afternoon pressure washing some of the paths and the patio plus some dry stone walling bringing them up like new; I finished off after 6 o'clock as it was becoming dark and turning rather chilly; I love using the pressure washer but it gives my back a lot of grief and my back is now aching but what a great day I've just enjoyed. :huray:

Kind regards, Col.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2017 7:06 pm 
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Hi,

I enjoyed making the fence today; I keep buying offcuts of plastic at Rufforth Auto Jumble so thought a bit of this would make a nice handle for the fence; I think its actually a bit of acetal but it turned very easily using a gouge on the Graduate lathe; although it turned easily it was rather a pain due to the strings it produced which enjoyed spinning obscuring the cut; the threaded end I drilled to accept a pressure pad which I turned from steel on the Lorch lathe; it's wonderful to be using my machines in anger like this and hopefully this year I'll be doing a lot more. The new fence locks nice and solid with little pressure applied to the handle. Still work to do but little by little it's all coming together.

I remembered to take a picture of some of my drive belts; these drive belts have been collected over many years and I never throw any away; I throw very little away; my offcuts simply become smaller and smaller until they disappear.

Kind regards, Col.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 7:39 pm 
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Hi,

I've now added another important item to the saw; this is the riving knife; I'm designing this saw for ripping because I already have a nice radial arm saw for cross cutting. It's highly dangerous to use such a saw for ripping without a riving knife installed and I don't cherish the thought of a severe kickback from a 4hp saw.

Once all the parts are made and fitted I can then do fine adjustments. Perhaps the next job should be dust extraction. :scratch:

Kind regards, Col.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 1:01 pm 
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Hi,

I'm starting to really enjoy my retirement; no big jobs hanging over me and a bit of peace in the workshop without anyone interrupting. I've been pleased so far with my steady progress building this saw bench but this morning it went back two stages; I'm not happy with the new fence; it locks OK and would do the job but I think I can make a much better fence also when I started to align the riving knife I thought something is wrong here? This new riving knife is a spare for the big DeWalt radial arm saw and I wrongly assumed its thickness would be OK for this new saw bench well as usual I ended up starting from scratch. When I measured the riving knife I found it to be only as thick as the new saw bench blade plate; it needs to match the kerf which will be wider due to the carbide tips; the kerf (cut) is usually 0.125" (one eighth of an inch).

I'm used to making things and a new riving knife wasn't going to test me it being a straightforward metal working job. I have some 0.125" black iron plate which looked suitable so I needed to mark this out; the curve on the previous knife wasn't correct so time to make it correct; the saw blade is 12" dia so the inner dia of the new knife I marked at 12 1/2" to do this I used an offcut of timber to make a trammel bar with a 6 1/4" radius; nothing sophisticated at all; a nail as pivot and a notch to guide the marker pen.

To save lots of hacksaw work I slipped a metal cutting blade into the jigsaw and roughed the blank out; I drilled a 6mm hole as a stop for the adjusting slot then carefully cut the slot using the hacksaw; to save more work I used my home made 4" belt sander to refine the outer curve and files to refine the inner curve and slot; all sharp edges were removed and the taper to the inner curve was added using a file; abrasive paper was used to remove the mill scale then a quick polish on my home made 2" belt grinder with a leather honing belt installed.

This new riving knife feels more like it; it's a lot more robust and I'm happy with it; after polishing the new riving knife is 0.121" thick which is more suited to the blade; I've not installed the new riving knife but I'm sure it will now align better and more importantly do the job the riving knife is installed for in preventing the kerf closing.

I know I'm picky and go well over the top but if I know something isn't quite right it will bug me. What an enjoyable morning and it was wonderful to use hand tools again. Making ones own machinery is so satisfying. :huray:

Kind regards, Col.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 3:42 pm 
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Hi,

It's nice to know I'm not perfect with everything always going to plan. Today has been one of those days which wind the big key up in my back; I was in the workshop early this morning full of enthusiasm but a number of insignificant things burst my bubble; I couldn't seem to concentrate or make a simple decision; as the morning progressed I was passing the saw bench to reach the big drill press when my hand just brushed the corner of the saw bench top removing a small section of skin between two fingers; nothing serious at all just an annoyance and this must be the only sharp edge on the saw that I hadn't fettled so it bit me; it won't do it again because I attacked it with a file to round it over.

I've been working on the new rip fence and needed four 10mm nuts so opened the wall cupboard; as I lifted three out of the plastic container I noticed one get away it bounced on my arm then to the floor? Ten minutes later after trying to find this wayward nut even on my hands and knees using a torch I gave up in disgust; I know it bounced off my arm but it's disappeared into one of the many black holes these things tend to disappear into.

At times like this I know not to carry on so decided to give the Yeti a polish; I switched everything off and came out of the workshop to be confronted with heavy rain; this is the only thing to go right so far today because rain is forecast.

This isn't a moan its just an off day which I experience occasionally and I always recognize when it's time to walk away. Most likely my next session in the workshop I won't do a thing wrong; the good thing is that I'm retired so not under pressure; I'll resume work under my terms and I'll not be beaten in the end. :salute:

Kind regards, Col.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 6:42 pm 
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I'd take your 'substantial' construction over anything you could buy these days Col! Really, really excellent workmanship.

Question though, in an earlier post you mentioned filing out the hole in the saw blade.... wouldn't it have been better to turn the shaft down to fit? You'll have to file out each and every blade you use now! Equally, whilst I don't question your accuracy and ability, getting the hole position wrong by even a fraction will introduce vibration will it not?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 7:35 pm 
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Hi,

Thanks for your kind comments k_e. :salute:

Yes a very good point about opening blade bores out; as you know k_e I could have easily reduced the spindle size on the lathe and normally I would but in this case it would also mean skimming the threads; its not a problem for me to file a blade bore; the important part is accurate marking out hence I use a black permanent marker pen to darken the area then use an engineers scriber to define the circumference of the proposed bore; all I need is something with the correct bore dia and I have a very good eye for centering; certainly near enough for this kind of job; I've filed quite a few blade bores over the years and never suffered saw vibration but obviously I wouldn't recommend a novice to attack a saw blade bore using a file; I was trained as an apprentice like many apprentices in my day to file flat to a thou of an inch and this skill remains with me. As I've previously stated this saw will be used mostly for ripping so blade changing will be infrequent; I recently filed the bore on another new Trend blade to fit my Shopsmith; a saw blade running a few thou out of true on its periphery won't even be noticed as the timber is fed in but a blade running well out of true would certainly be noticed. I'm demonstrating some of the skills I was taught and still enjoy using to this day; I'm happy working from welding thick plate to doing very precise work but unfortunately these skills are dying out with us dinosaurs. :cb

I think one little project will be to turn a double diameter "plug" in steel; the smaller diameter to suit the modern readily available 30mm bore saw blades the outer diameter the new bore size then this would ensure perfect centering assuming of course the blade bore needs opening out; going the other way is usually much easier when a blade has a bore dia too large because spacers are cheap enough to buy. I also have an industrial rated drill press so a suitable reamer would be a quick and accurate method of opening such a bore out once the blade was firstly centered and secured to the drill table. I enjoy pottering around and these little jobs add interest to my day.

It's Rufforth Auto Jumble once again this Saturday and I'll add a 1.25" dia machine reamer to my wish list if I can find one with a #2 Morse Taper; these reamers can be bought at Rufforth very cheaply indeed; I think the last two reamers I bought at Rufforth were both brand new; 1/2" dia and 1/4" dia the pair for £3.

As I work through each stage if I'm not happy with how something is turning out I don't move on to the next stage until I am happy; cast iron would have been better but I think knocking a back street foundry together just might be a bit much even for our neighbours; I was taught blacksmithing too but not needed to use this skill in the last 55 years but I've not forgotten the methods; at times I've wished I had a full sized anvil and forge also a set of full sized oxy/acetylene bottles with welding and cutting torches; I was taught on BOC Sapphire kit. :thumbleft:

Kind regards, Col.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 7:52 pm 
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Col wrote:
cast iron would have been better but I think knocking a back street foundry together just might be a bit much even for our neighbours;

:lol: have you seen some of the Youtube videos on home metal casting? I'm sure you will have. Never been tempted? :lol:

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