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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 1:38 pm 
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Hi,

Many thanks for giving the motor mounting some thought and for your welcome suggestion Dave54. :salute:

There's no fixed plan with any of this project as I'm making it up as I go along; obviously in my favour I have the components to look at allowing me to sort out fixing methods but there are a number of options regarding mounting the spindle and motor; the saw blade will be centered back to front in the table but I might offset it from side to side to give increased blade to fence width; my last saw could only cope with under 8" ripping width using the fence but I plan to increase this if I can; the motor though is long; big and heavy which will give me lots of fun in mounting it. :scratch:

Got to go; surgery appointment to see if I'm still ticking.

Kind regards, Col.

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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 5:35 pm 
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Hi,

I was in the workshop early again this morning with a full days pleasure ahead of me. I had cut the angle iron and welded it for the motor mounting platform then I drilled it to accept the motor mounting bolts. Things were progressing well so time for a brew; I came up into the bungalow and armed with the brew headed back into the workshop; as I reached the path bottom I saw our lovely neighbour Carole on the pathway in front of her bungalow with gardening tools in her hands so I had a natter with her. Ever since Carole moved in four years ago she has been upset by a laurel bush in her front garden and once again the laurel was mentioned; Carole was talking about getting her son to visit and cut this laurel right down to ground lever but he would have to hire a saw.

An hour later the laurel was removed at below ground level; I attacked it with my sabre saw having removed some soil and stones from around its base; this laurel was well established having a number of thick trunks and Carol had already brought it down to about two feet tall where it had grown dense foliage; this was hard graft as usual because the saw was cutting through green timber which was clogging the blade even when I installed a very coarse toothed blade; I ruined two blades but at last the laurel was removed much to Carole's joy. This is how I do all my projects; I'm not complaining because I volunteered to help but there is always something like this crops up every time I intend to spend a day in the workshop; Carole is such a good neighbour that although sometimes doing these favours is inconvenient I don't begrudge helping her.

I've actually had a lovely day pottering around and have now knocked together the mounting unit for the spindle and motor; the pictures below show the work so far; I sat the motor on the spindle frame just to show the size of the motor and in this position no way could the blade be installed; I was very aware of this and hopefully have now sorted it out by dropping the motor base below the spindle base and it is hinged to allow drive belt adjustment; it will all become clear shortly but the project is now moving along nicely; I took great pains over ensuring the pulleys would align by roughly lining the motor and spindle so that I could visualize positioning for welding; its just so easy to reverse something; once things are fully welded its what I would regard as permanent. Once the spindle and motor are in position it should make more sense in what I'm trying to achieve; one thing is certain this is not going to be a flimsy lightweight saw.

Kind regards, Col.

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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:13 pm 
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Hei, Colin

THAT is exactly the type of 'volunteering' which I undertake.
No 'third party' who acts as some sort of manager between the person who has a need and those who can supply.
I've been a Co-Operator since I was old enough to hold a Pass book.
Co-ops were regular and generous contributors to numerous 'voluntary' organizations, large and small.
Those payments came out of the surpluses which the various Co-ops made.
Many supermarkets and other stores collected donations from their customers, bundled them up and presented the dosh as a contribution to a Charity as if from the STORE, when it had come out of the customers' pockets and purses.
That's one of the aspects of the big 'Volunteer' based groups which I don't hold wqith - they would like to present MY free labour as a 'gift' from THEM.
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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 7:39 pm 
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Hi,

Whoops I posted the same picture twice; sorry for this.

Thanks AAA. These days its mostly about greed and selfishness starting with the government and working down. :cb

As a child all those living around us were also in dire poverty so it was common to help each other out and to look out for each other; I don't know if my parents had a door key because the door was never locked in fact during summer it would be left wide open from getting up to going to bed. I was brought up the old fashioned way and I'll never change. I don't mind helping anyone but I think by being the way I am I'm being taken advantage of many times to the point of abuse. Two of our neighbours a couple recently moved from across the street; for many years I've kept an eye on their house every time they've been on holiday and the last couple of years got dragged into watering their many big planters; many times once they returned home they didn't even have the common decency to thank me.

New neighbours moved in and when I first spoke to the husband the husband said to me I'll know who to ask for advice? I replied I've absolutely no problem with advice but I'm fully booked up with jobs.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Culture_of_Yorkshire

Kind regards, Col.

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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 7:51 pm 
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'appen, Colin.



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 11:50 am 
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Hi,

A bit more progress. Yesterday I managed a short session and have now added the drive belt adjuster as seen in the pictures; this is a very basic design but also very robust because with a 4hp motor tugging at it I don't want it to fail which could have very serious consequences indeed. I had considered installing a screwed adjuster but this design will do the job; once the belts are adjusted it won't then be a regular job readjusting them. Welding was fun poking the electrode amongst all the angle iron. I had to quit due to uncomfortable abdomen pain the kind of pain which put me in hospital for three days last July but not quite as severe; thankfully by bedtime last night I felt fine again but I have to be so careful not only with my diet but in how I tackle manual jobs in the workshop; welding quality suffered a bit but then I too was suffering. I've been using the hacksaw quite a lot as well as files. After dinner today I can make a start on the mountings to secure the saw unit to the main frame; one end will be hinged the other end will possibly be threaded to allow easy precise blade height setting.

Kind regards, Col.

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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:38 pm 
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Hi,

What a wonderful morning I've just enjoyed in the workshop entirely without interruptions which is rare.

The saw bench is now taking shape; I temporarily positioned the saw/motor unit framework to check everything was going to fit. To give precise tracking whilst lifting/lowing the blade I decided to use a pair of 15 mm pillow block bearings which I had in stock; these will be secured with bolts giving some range of adjustment for blade alignment. I've ordered 300 mm of 16 mm dia threaded rod which I hope will arrive today; my plan is to have screw blade height adjustment. I've just drilled and tapped at 16 mm a short length of 1" square BMS (bright mild steel) this will be robust enough to give many years trouble free service; more work still needed but it's coming along nicely; I tapped using my industrial drill press with back gear engaged; once the tapping was completed I cut the BMS to length using my big angle grinder on the home made stand saving lots of arm ache.

WOW I found the outer spindle collar without trouble this morning which surprised me considering it must be twenty years since I last saw it. The spindle unit alone must weigh as much as a modern tinny complete saw. thumbleft:

Kind regards, Col.

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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 4:02 pm 
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I love seeing your fabrications come into being, that looks really great Colin :thumbright:

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 8:06 am 
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COLIN - this thread keeps getting better and better.

I'm thinking of giving up listening to The Archers in favour of re-reading your diary.
I DO hope that you've not sold the film and TV rights yet.... :lol:

(Actually, I prefer 'Farming Today" to The Archers - a better way to start the day I can't imagine - well apart from TWO ... :oops: )



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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 5:12 pm 
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Hi,

Many thanks for your kind comments and encouragement DWD & AAA; always very much appreciated. :salute:

A bit more progress today; I completed the top trunnion and it's now installed this is for the blade height adjustment; tomorrow I'll sort out the bottom trunnion together with an handle; it's slow work having to dream up the ideas and then do every little thing one piece at a time but its most enjoyable and its nice to see it taking shape. The blade height adjustment involved a lot of thought; I could have used all manner of mechanisms from cam to lever but in the end I opted for screwed adjuster this hopefully will give lots of fine adjustment at the turn of an handle; I love experimenting. One thing I have done is to test the saw unit actually hinges without fouling anything; so far so good though.

Good point about The Archers AAA; this saw bench project is work in progress so rather like a daily series but I'd much rather watch someone tackle a projects such as this than watch normal TV which truly is dire; I'll have something to show for the effort by the time its finished. :thumbleft:

A few more pictures; the trunnion is made from a short length of 1" square BMS; drilled and tapped at 16mm to accept the threaded adjusting rod.; axially I drilled at 1/2" dia to accept short round stubs; these were a nice sliding fit but I wanted to permanently secure them so drilled and tapped at 6mm and added a set screw each so these aren't going anywhere: I didn't want them to work loose whilst the saw was under power.

I'm using a pedal bin plus pieces of timber to support the saw unit whilst I determine measurements etc; I added a temporary 12" saw blade allowing me to physically see how it moves from full to no cut then I could allow a bit extra; much better to do this than end up with a useless adjuster; I just hope its all going to work because I'm still making it up as I go along; its fun and keeps my head and hands busy so I'm happy. :huray:

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 8:05 pm 
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Hi,

A bit more progress today; work is now well advanced on making the screw adjuster for blade height; having made the first trunnion showing one way how to do it I thought it's time I played with my Lorch lathe after all it's just sitting there looking pretty after its comprehensive rebuild. I enjoyed turning the new bottom trunnion as seen in the pictures; this one has a clear bore to act as a bearing because the threaded rod needs to revolve within it; I also removed a length of thread bringing it down to precisely 1/2" dia; the trunnion was bored then reamer-ed to 1/2" dia so its a nice fit. The handle I picked up years ago knowing it would prove useful someday so the day has arrived; I opened the handle bore out with the reamer and I'll pin the handle to secure it; I've cut and welded brackets for the trunnion and I've also cut to length some 2" square box section to hang the trunnion from; I'd have liked a longer session this afternoon but as it's been pouring with rain and blowing a gale I didn't want to open the workshop doors; fumes and smoke quickly build up from the angle grinder and welder so better to quit because my health is more important than making the saw bench. It won't be long before I'm doing some major assembly with the spindle and motor; I've got a feeling this won't be a saw bench for one who is timid?

I'm adding a lot of detail just to show how much work goes into a project like this; I love making useful machines and am only limited by my imagination; if spares are ever needed they won't be available over the counter because all the framework and trunnions etc are bespoke which is part of the beauty of making from scratch in a home workshop.

I've used this lathe very little since rebuilding it and this proved rather troublesome in that my left hand didn't know what my right hand was doing; it's infuriating not having a live tail center; I have three such centers but they don't fit; the Lorch taper is a strange one and certainly not "Morse" add to this that the mandrel bore wouldn't accept the threaded rod the rod being too large in dia so I had to center the end of the rod and bring up tail-stock support this being a dead centre which I dislike using. I ground a length of HSS tooling and it was nice though to get on the lathe for a change; I might even replace the top trunnion I made just for the sheer fun of using the lathe; I've no time constraints so can enjoy the work in progress to the full. Everything I'm making is heavy duty and should last a few generations but then it's being made the old fashioned way. :huray:

Kind regards, Col.

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 Post subject: Re: Home made saw-bench.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 3:13 pm 
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Hi,

I can't believe it took all morning just to sort out the bottom trunnion mounting. I seldom break a drill bit but I broke three this morning just drilling through the handle boss and threaded rod; my intention was to use the existing pin holes in the handle which was a huge mistake; as the drill bit broke through the threaded rod the tip of the drill wasn't perfectly aligned with the second hole in the handle boss so just one cutting edge grabbed shattering the drill; in the end after wasting a great deal of time I set the handle and rod in the big drill press where I could control the drill feed and this worked; sometimes I go through periods in the workshop where everything I touch goes wrong but with stubbornness I won through in the end; I can easily resharpen the broken drill bits but it annoys me to damage any of my kit.

I spent a lot of time ensuring everything was aligned and that the saw unit went through its full travel by firstly clamping everything tightly; once I was happy I then welded and drilled as needed; with the saw blade height adjuster now fully working it brought me up to dinner time. The blade now has very fine height adjustment which is what I wanted; my last saw bench was my big Startrite combination woodworking machine; the blade height adjustment on this was by lever and locking hand grip which was rapid in raising and lowering the blade but fine adjustment was always hit or miss. Next job is to check everything done thus far for tightness then I can install the spindle and motor; I've included adjustment points to aid aligning the blade so I'll be interested to see how this saw turns out after all the time and effort I've so far expended upon it. :thumbleft:

The pictures show the blade height adjuster which is most important because this needs to be correct; it wouldn't be fun to see the blade not clear the table in its lowest position and equally with the blade height on full the maximum depth of cut should be available; this really is important and to get it wrong by simply guessing then welding everything before checking would be asking for failure; I took great pains to get this just right; the 300mm long threaded rod at first looked like it would need a lot of shortening but amazingly it worked out perfectly.

One mistake a novice makes is to assume the blade height adjuster works in a linear motion (straight line) and once everything is completed only does the problem manifest itself when the adjuster locks up solid; this is the reason I went to so much trouble in making the pair of trunnions; the saw unit describes a large arc (rotates around a pivot/hinge) and this needs taking into account at the early stages of design because it is so very easy to get caught out; the trunnions allow the saw unit to travel the arc without the unit jamming solid. The arc in this instance isn't from the spindle centre to the pivot it's from the end of the unit to the pivot hence the need for a long adjusting screw; in order to prevent twisting of the unit during starting the saw and cutting I went over the top with welding and the saw unit pivot points are spaced very wide apart to give lots of stability. I added a washer and nut above the handle tack welding the nut at its top to the threaded rod in order to secure the nut permanently to the rod; the handle I drilled through and tapped at 6mm dia thus trapping the trunnion; given the power of this saw I didn't want the blade to climb during cutting which would be highly dangerous so I designed to avoid this ensuring the blade remains at a fixed height; the spacing of the pivot points ensures the mounting of the saw unit is free from side movement. I used 50mm box section welded to the legs for plenty of strength to resist the forces placed upon it by the adjuster. The adjuster is a joy to use and has been well worth the effort to make it. One of the pictures show the view from beneath.

Kind regards, Col.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 5:41 pm 
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Hi,

Another session this afternoon; mostly tidying up but I've now adjusted the blade as seen in the pictures; this blade is only temporary as I'll buy a new tipped ripping blade but this old plate blade is fine for alignment purposes.

I've also removed the single belt pulley; twin belts will be installed. Out of interest for any novice ever needing to remove a taper lock pulley then if you don't know how these pulleys release from a shaft you sure are in for some grief because just removing the grub screws then trying to pull the pulley clear will prove to be a nightmare; removing one of these pulleys the correct way is extremely simple and rather than explain in text here is a YouTube video showing the technique; in the video the pulleys are being aligned in a way as to be inaccurate; the inner taper needs aligning then the outer pulley pulls in line with it?

The spindle has previously been used on a home made moulder using a big moulding head so to ensure the pulley remained tight I added a pair of short plugs to act as a key as seen in the picture; just a little tip if a key is needed but no key way on the shaft.



Kind regards, Col.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 5:29 pm 
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Hi,

I managed a couple of hours in the workshop this afternoon enjoying myself. It's now looking more like a saw bench; the spindle; motor and starter are now installed just needing adjusting once I sort the pulleys out and buy the new drive belts; it's all wired up so will soon be ready to run up on test. So far everything works and fits as it should much to my relief. The pictures below are up to date. :thumbleft:

Kind regards, Col.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 8:48 pm 
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Hi,

I've just bought through eBay a new Trend saw blade at 305mm dia and a pair of SPZ drive belts.

I've just sorted the drive belt lengths and this can be a real problem to a novice buying their first ever drive belts. I have two pulleys in stock which look suitable. The big drive pulley is SPZ 118 x 2 the pulley being driven on the saw spindle is SPZ 75 x 2 the 2 denotes its a double belt pulley and the sizes stamped on the pulley are the sizes used to determine belt length.

For my belts;

118 x 3.142 divide by 2 = 185.378 (Gives radius)

75 x 3.142 divide by 2 = 117.825 (Gives radius)

Shaft centers are 350 multiply by 2 = 700

Total = 1003.203mm Excellent my new belts can be bought at 1,000mm long. It's important to buy multiple new belts together to ensure they are balanced for length.

Drive belts are cheap and the two belts I've just bought are these;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPZ-1000-Wrapped-Wedge-Belt-9-7mmX8mmX1000mm-SPZ-1000-High-Quality-Wedge-Belt-/322160077218?hash=item4b023ca9a2:g:GDIAAOxyuR5TX5I~

The above method of sizing belt lengths is the way I've been doing it for 50 years but here is the modern method;

http://www.beltingonline.com/spz-section-length-calculator-8408

Using the online belt length calculator reads 1004.33 for my belt length so my old fashioned method is still plenty accurate enough.

Sizing drive belts can be a real pain for a novice so I hope this information is of use. :scratch:

The Trend circular saw blade is 305mm x 30mm bore. 24T Craft Pro Max 6,500 RPM £23.99 inc.

The new motor is rated at 2,850 rpm (2 pole) and the pulleys I'm using will give near enough 4,500 blade RPM. Building the table saw the way I have built this one allows all manner of adjustments and modifications to suit my particular needs. 2,850 RPM would be fast enough for the saw blade but I have moulding heads which need to run faster so 4,500 RPM is a good compromise; One way to find out if my saw will come up to my expectations is to put some timber through it once its completed. One thing is certain; I won't be standing in direct line of fire should this saw ever kick back; I'll be installing a riving knife which is a must for my personal safety. :thumbleft:

Kind regards, Col.

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