DIY Forum

DIY Forum/Home improvement advice

 

 

A-Z CONTENTS | ARCADE | DISCLAIMER | DIRECTORY | DIY VIDEO | HOME | SAFETY FIRST | FORUM RULES

It is currently Thu May 24, 2012 8:27 am
Visit Buck and Hickman


Time zone: Europe/London [ DST ]




 

Post new topic This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 12 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:08 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:39 pm
Posts: 7
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
I want to swap the heat exchanger on my boiler with a new one as it has got clogged (probably rust from the rads) How easy is this and what are the steps I must take?

Also thinking of adding a magna clean filter...what should I know?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:43 pm 
Offline
Senior Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 11:58 pm
Posts: 398
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 62 times
do you mean the plate heat exchanger or the main heat exchanger?


Top
 Profile  
 
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you register or log in

PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:52 am 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:39 pm
Posts: 7
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
The plate exchanger. thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you register or log in

PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 9:31 am 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 8:03 pm
Posts: 3577
Has thanked: 51 times
Been thanked: 230 times
Very easy on these, but get 4 new 'o' rings to fit when you put the new one back on.

The hardest part is finding somewhere to drain the boiler. I usually take a new PRV with me so I can use the PRV to drain it (Not recommeneded though) and then if the PRV drips I have it covered with the new one.

_________________
Dave

www.drlgas.co.uk


Top
 Profile  
 
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you register or log in

PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 7:10 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:39 pm
Posts: 7
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
So I need to drain the boiler? I assume the exchanger goes out through the bottom- What else please?


Top
 Profile  
 
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you register or log in

PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 9:28 pm 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 8:03 pm
Posts: 3577
Has thanked: 51 times
Been thanked: 230 times
I only give general help. Not a step by step guide on how to do a job. For that you need to call my £10/min helpline :thumbright:

_________________
Dave

www.drlgas.co.uk


Top
 Profile  
 
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you register or log in

PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 9:31 pm 
Offline
Senior Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 11:58 pm
Posts: 398
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 62 times
as gas 4 you has stated get hold of the plate heat exchanger o-rings as it will forever leak if you dont

1 cold mains supply off to boiler/turn boiler off
2 open hot tap till it stops
3 drain pressure out of system/get as much water out of you boiler as possible
4 cover any electrical components in cloth or paper towel
5 take the plate HE out with a bucket/drain down tray under the boiler just incase
6 remove old orings(x4) from HE or manifold and replace with new ones with a bit of silicon grease on them
7 insert new/cleaned HE back in possition
8 turn cold mains back on to boiler tap should run with no leak
9 turn tap off should be no leaks at standing pressure
10 fill system back up with no leaks
11 do not pass go do not collect 200

hope this helps


Top
 Profile  
 
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you register or log in

PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 12:21 pm 
Offline
Gas/Heating Expert

Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2007 1:20 am
Posts: 1837
Location: London/Midlands
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 147 times
I would isolate the boiler from the system and only drain the boiler.

That greatly reduces the time taken to get rid of air in the system.

Thats important when doing a repair at a fixed price.

Tony


Top
 Profile  
 
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you register or log in

PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:20 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:39 pm
Posts: 7
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
Agile wrote:
I would isolate the boiler from the system and only drain the boiler.

That greatly reduces the time taken to get rid of air in the system.

Thats important when doing a repair at a fixed price.

Tony



This is helpful as there are no visible drains on any of my rads or a system drain outside the property ( I think it goes to a void under the floor!)

Also the closed imput loop is left in place- as it has been by several engineers- is this legal? does it matter much?


Top
 Profile  
 
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you register or log in

PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:54 pm 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 8:03 pm
Posts: 3577
Has thanked: 51 times
Been thanked: 230 times
Agile wrote:
I would isolate the boiler from the system and only drain the boiler.

That greatly reduces the time taken to get rid of air in the system.

Thats important when doing a repair at a fixed price.

Tony


Until the isolating valves leak when you touch them, as most will after a few years.

_________________
Dave

www.drlgas.co.uk


Top
 Profile  
 
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you register or log in

PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 6:11 pm 
Offline
Senior Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 11:58 pm
Posts: 398
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 62 times
czechmate67 wrote:
Also the closed imput loop is left in place- as it has been by several engineers- is this legal? does it matter much?


it goes against the water regs but with 2 none return valves on it there is no way its passing back in to potable/holesome water


Top
 Profile  
 
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you register or log in

PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 2:27 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2012 2:24 pm
Posts: 1
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 1 times
Hi

Am am new to the forum and not a plumber by trade.

Thanks to the forum I now have working hot water again, so I am just saying thank you!

I also removed the pipe which connects flow and return, just underneath the secondary exchanger, and removed some GUNK from that.

Thanks again



For this message the author 1mh has received gratitude : gas4you
Top
 Profile  
 
You may not be able to see the full post including pictures unless you register or log in

Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 12 posts ] 


Similar topics
   

Time zone: Europe/London [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  


News News Site map Site map SitemapIndex SitemapIndex RSS Feed RSS Feed Channel list Channel list
ultimatehandyman privacy policy

Contact

 

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group

phpBB SEO

 

Diy forum - Decking - plastering - Plumbing - DIY - Tiling